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Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.


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On 2/14/2017 at 04:48, Datsun280z said:

Awesome build man, so so much win here...

Thanks man, I'm quite envious of your 280 and 300.... must resist haha.

Semi update and really about the 'other 200sx', I've sourced some of the missing parts: CAS, Engine mounts and brackets, spare T25 turbo, downpipe, viscous fan.

Took engine out:



Also stripped out more of interior of race car version of 200sx's's and sanded ready for paint:



Plan to paint interior with Hammerite Smooth, it worked well on my last race car. Currently trying to make a sort of gunmetal grey that I like by adding black to silver. Might work haha.


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Oh and I put the Dashboard and gauge cluster back in, there are a couple more wires to figure out so I've left them accessible. It's good to have it back in and looking more like a car after having the whole loom spreadout over the whole garage!

Mounted the Toyota ECU in passenger foot well, it wouldn't reach or fit where the factory ECU goes.

Made up an alloy sheet to mount some gauges where the stereo would be, this was going to be Air Fuel Ratio, Oil temp and Oil Pressure, but I might change it to have the AFR up on top of the dash to be easier to view when driving. Good thing I hadn't cut the gauge holes yet haha.

Trying to remove the rear lights is proving a mission, they've been silicon glued in there, so going to have to dissolve it slowly with something.



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  • 2 weeks later...

Almost finished painting inside.

I was tempted to just fit carpet, but I think I'll use the 'new' looking carpet in the other 200sx.

I mixed some Hammerite silver with black until I got this colour. I originally brushed it on but the brush lines were really bad, unlike when I did the same in another car with white.

So decided to try spray it, I thinned in with proper hammerite brand thinners because apparently its something special...

It worked pretty well but I definitely need a better compressor.

Looks much better than the photo a couple of posts up there ^^^





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Another coat:


That was with my cheapy 40L Blackridge 2.5hp compressor which can't keep up with the HVLP spray gun.

So I bought this for when I do this outside (a couple of cars to do):


Its 3hp, 15cfm, Ingersoll Rand pump on an old Hindin 270L tank. ALLL THE CAPACITY!


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  • 3 weeks later...

So I drove this for the first time, to test stuff. Mostly check for noises and AFR's etc.

I need more wheel clearance at full lock, which is going to be interesting.

The wastegates weren't wastegating, turn out that a T-piece I used had a tiny restrictor, removed that and the 7psi springs seem to be around 0.6-0.7bar, which is better.

AFR's are fine at that low boost, until higher revs (unsure how high since no tacho yet) where it starts leaning out, so I'm going to fit some 540cc injectors and control them with an Apexi SAFC II which I already have.

Gearbox feels good, clutch release bearing is a bit noisy, the clutch might need upgrading but with the quick test drive it was hard to tell.

Factory injectors are only 370cc so 540cc is a 50% increase which should be ok to control with the SAFC, I wanted a smaller increase but Supra 440cc are side feed which is annoying. So I'll see how it works out with 540's.

A Link and ID1050's are the later plan but that's a $5000+ job since I need to control VVTi.



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Picked up a set of four 540cc ST215 Caldina GTT injectors over the weekend.

They are a perfect fit, same size and same plug. Yay.

Just waiting on the other set to arrive from CHCH, so I'll have a 8. I'm going to DIY clean them and check spray pattern, test resistance etc to see if they are all the same. 

The others should arrive today or tomorrow.

Found the Apexi SAFC II I bought years ago, it was in the laundry of course. Have downloaded manual PDF for wiring and tuning etc.

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The second set of 540cc injectors arrive over the weekend so I professionally cleaned them:


Checked for sameness:


Also used a multimeter to do a resistance check on all 8 ST215 injectors, they were all the same which is nice. Also the same as the old JZX100 injectors, not sure what this really proves...


So I went ahead and installed them, checked for leaks and it started up first try, fckn yay. Idle'd perfectly fine, rev'd it a bit and saw a bit of black smoke which I was expecting.

The battery had been disconnected for a few days which might explain why the AFR's were super rich at idle with 10.6:! But it then surprisingly sorted itself out, whether it was just cold start rich, I'm not sure but when it was warm it idled at around 14:1 which isn't much different to the standard 370cc's.

Next was to test drive it to see what the AFR's did under low boost, but I then found a fuel leak from the rear. Which turned out to be the fuel tank o-ring which looks to have expanded so it doesn't sit right.

Have now ordered a new genuine one, for fcking $51.11

11 cents!



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After a couple of tries the fuel tank leak is fixed, the o-ring was definitely expanded so didn't sit right but then it still leaked with the new o-ring.

After a lot of stuffing around I realised that the seat that the o-ring sits in wasn't perfectly flat so one area was lower than the rest so didn't form a good seal.

So finally took it for a quick test drive and its still leaning out as soon as I get a little boost. 

Couple of ideas:

- fuel filter could now be blocked. I've removed and yes it was dirty, but not sure its enough. Will get a new one anyway.

- TPS might need resetting, I removed it to get the throttle body tig welded. It was marked beforehand and put back on by the guy doing the welding. But it seems to drive totally fine until boost...so not quite convinced of this.

- Brand new Walbro could be a dud? I've had it for too long to have a warranty I think.




I did however get the tacho working from another feed, weird that it didn't work straight from the 'tach' labelled wire from the ignitor.

Also started wiring in the Apexi SAFC II, so far it powers up and shows me revs. Haven't wired in MAF and knock sensors etc because I wanted to know what it did before adding another variable.



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New filter in and now its running much better, not leaning out but its now bucketing in fuel, so need to sort out SAFC wiring.

When I took the filter out I blew fuel through both ways and a lot came through so I thought I needed to get back to the drawing board. To confirm I cut it open, holy fckn fck....




I didn't think to change it because it looked brand new, it looks like it was actually old and already on edge clogged. Lesson learnt though.

I bought two new filters so I can change it again after some km's.




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OK so the SAFC is working, I can change fuel percentage at idle and see the AFR's change, as well as hear the engine note change. 

Not sure if the Knock reading is working, will recheck that.

The weather has been wet so I can't test drive with primered rear quarters that want to suck up water.

So I've bought some White Autothane paint, primer, thinner, filler, mixing cups, filters, proper mask etc etc.

I've welded up the Aerial hole, wiper hole and high stop light since it is covered by the wing. Lots of sanding etc.

Sanded rear quarters, yay sanding. Don't have to worry too much here since it's covered by fibreglass panels.

Finally got the damn tail lights out, they were silicon sealered in there and I couldn't get to it. But finally off after making a weird shaped knife blade and some levering to break the bond. Surprisingly didn't break the lights, cool.

The roof has been painted with terrible black paint, no prep and looks shit. So I took it back as far as I could with the orbital sander, dust every where. Love sanding. But the original paint underneath wasn't in good condition so time for the paint stripper.

Fck off shitty paint:




Started sanding rear:



Primered overfenders, used special primer for fibreglass. The colour is actually pretty cool, would look good with clear coat....




Also trimmed the rear fibreglass arches because wide wheels are wide:



Where it will sit until ready to paint:



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  • 4 weeks later...

More removing of crappy roof paint, its like rubber but doesn't peal off. You can kind of see it on the edge where where I was using paint stripper.







Lots of shallow dents here:



Factory weld/braze:



Looks less finished the more I work on it!



These 'Dura Block' sanding blocks with stick on sanding paper is an awesome combo:



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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Guide coat makes it look like an Upper Hutt bogan Escort from the 90's:



Sanded some of the high build primer and have some high spots showing from the factory spot welds at the rear of the roof, but its so minuscule. Will probably do another couple of coats of primer after this:


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  • 2 weeks later...

Sanding my life away...

Think my AGM battery is stuffed too, bugger that's $150 wasted.

But yeah, doors off and trim off, sanded door jams and sills to 320 grit.




Also primered the roof and boot lid again, didn't take a photo so here is the back, because.





Next up, sanding!



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