Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.

[~Slideways~]

1 hour ago, tortron said:

You might consider a yellowbox speed corrector. Made in Aussie, I use one, rather happy with it and the service. Let's you display top speed too

Sweet! Ordered one already, thanks.

 

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The type x bumper light fittings arrived from the states. They are designed with both position light and indicator in one (factory is just park/position lights), perfect for what I wanted. 

Except they supplied 4 clear/white leds and no orange ones.

Its not like you can fit all 4 of this type either, they are all 4 prong type and there is a 3 prong type meant for the indicators.

Have emailed the supplier and sent them this photo after I had emailed saying they hadn't supplied the right LED's:

 

I get the feeling I'll be going to Pick a Part to see if I can find something with the same plug type and just use an orange bulb since US shipping will take ages and they need to check with their suppliers.

 

 

 

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Wife bought me an R154 Cube Speed short shifter for my birthday, had heard good things about these (cube speed, not wives).

Nicely made thing, fit perfectly to the gearbox it was made for, but it wasn't made for the chassis it is in so had to trim back the gearboot plastic trim itself. 

Fck it feels nice! Very direct clicky engagement, currently only tested without clutch working but still feels good.

It came in a box:

Original factory gearstick with massive truck throw (it has been modified with an s-bend to bring it back a bit):

3rd gear:

4th gear:

 

 

Cube shifter:

3rd:

4th:

 

Super short throw, can't wait to try it.

It's a bit further forward due to the straighter lever but it's in a good position from the drivers seat.

Boot and trim modified for clearance:

 

Got sick of the dash and door cards looking like sh1t after sanding dust getting everywhere so I cleaned and coated it with some leather wax stuff which seemed to work:

 

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While waiting for the paint to dry on the Safari I started on the clutch line and bleeding this.

When I put the shorter clutch master in, I kept losing pressure after a dozen or so pedal pumps. Found it to be a leak in the fitting at the master, took it off and it looked like it might be the hose end, which is the factory JZX100 line just bent to fit the 200sx. It worked fine with the old clutch master, so maybe it got damaged.

It's an awkward position to get the hard line in the right spot so decided to get a braided line made.

Found these guys, 'HEL Performance' with a custom line builder on their website. So measured and found the right thread etc.

Ordered at about 3pm Wednesday and it arrived over night!

The quality is awesome, nice machined (cnc?) female ends etc.

 

 

So far no leaks and a good pedal feel, no test drive yet.

I'll be making a heat shield between the downpipe and other stuff.

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Installed the hoist over the last few weeks, took a bunch of measurements to figure out the best location based on the roof line of each vehicle since I am limited by the position of the I-beam in the centre of the garage, its there for holding up the house and also has a block and chain on it which is handy. Plus the roller door roll too.

Tested with the 200SX on it and its perfect and can go to max height too. Won't be able to with the Safari but I knew that would be the case.

 

^That guard to door panel gap is just because the guard isn't attached at the bottom.

 

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I was planning to go to Pick a Part to find an amber bulb fitting that would suit the bumper lights, since the manufacturer stuffed up and didn't include the right ones. Then I found some in a pile of jzx100 left overs that fit perfect, just needed to go to Supercheap auto to get the right amber bulb instead of clear.

Mish mash of LED and Toyota bits to make it work:

 

LED park light's work nicely, but look kind of strange with the old headlight bulbs...

Had to trim the light housing a bit but then they fit nicely:

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Driveshaft hoops, I used the factory 200sx two piece so I need two hoops so I bought two universal hoop kits to LVVTA specs.

With the exhaust crossing over it is was a bit of a pain to work around, the 'universal kits' are good quality but I ended up cutting and welding them so much I might as well have started with some flat bar. Oh well.

 

 

 

Love these magnet jobbies.

 

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Loops in, I used the offcuts as the backing plates since the surface area is enough.

Yup, the subframe is bright green. It was like that when I bought it as a rolling body it has grown on me now.

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While I was under there I finally found the speed sensor plug I got from a generic fwd Toyota at Pick a Part since my gearbox didn't have one.

I was going to run the wire through the bung/hole for the AFR sensor but I ended up putting it through the gearlever hole since there is a small gap now after the short shifter install.

The plug fits perfectly, I assume Toyota just have a generic 3 wire plug. Googled the pinout and found one with different colour wires, but I assume it should still be:

1- IGN power

2 - Ground

3 - Speed pulse output

Now I need to wire in the Yellow Box speed correction and see if I can get a reading on the dash.

 

[~Slideways~]

Not having much luck getting any kind of reading on the speedometer using a Yellowbox speed corrector, a Dakota Digital SGI-5E or just straight off the gearbox speed sensor.

Both the Yellowbox and the Dakota Digital register that there is a pulse signal so the sensor and wiring must be ok.

I am going to use the Yellow box to adjust the rev counter signal anyway, so I got the SGI-5E because it is meant to work with basically anything but I can't get it to register anything on the gauge either.

The wiring on the back of the speedo is pretty simple, 4 terminals (2P (speed sensor input (EDIT turns out this is an output for the original Nissan ECU)), IGN power, 12+ power and ground). 

I thought maybe the 180sx speedo is dead. I don't remember whether it worked when I did a made dash test drive on totally private roads in the banana'd chassis.

So tried the S14 one that came with the race car rolling body, don't know if it actually works either but assume it does because the rolling body was a rolling body because an sr20 threw a rod at Manfeild. Rolling body.

Tried it anyway and got nothing.

So I thought maybe the 180sx speedo could have a dry solder or something, took it apart and it looks ok. A little bit of crusty stuff around 4 of the solders but I think this is just the melted coating of the board. I resoldered these 4 anyway. 

 

I think the toyota speed sensor is a Hall Effect which is compatible with the Dakota Digital and it flashes showing the pulse so that must be fine. Not much info on what the Nissan speedo is expecting, I found a website saying that it should be 16000ppm which again should be fine with the DD.

I've tried all 5 outputs on the DD and get nothing.

I've tried the test function on the DD which outputs a few tests which should show on the speedo but it doesn't budge.

Frustrating.

[~Slideways~]

Also the S14 speedo looks to have speed adjustment terminals on the back, interesting!

It won't fit in the 180sx cluster though and it also did nothing with all tests.

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After realising 2P is not the input for the speedo I rewired it AAAAND... it made no difference at all.

I ended up taking the cluster apart again, took out the speedo and as a last resort I resoldered almost every single thing I could get to which is about 80 of them... now it works!

Such a relief to have this stupidly frustrating problem finally solved after weeks of tinkering and I can move onto adjusting the readout with the Dakota Digital.

Waiting on some new wheels to arrive which are the same width (9.5") but less aggressive offset which should be more cert friendly.

[~Slideways~]

Wired in the Yellowbox speedo calibrator to see if it would work with the tacho, bit of stuffing around splicing into the right wires and figuring out you can't adjust it with the engine running and its good.

Rev's now don't say I'm doing 9000rpm+ and it matches the readout on the Apexi SAFC II:

 

Speedo and tacho working! I need to figure out how much the speedo is out by before adjusting it:

 

Trying to keep the wiring nice and tidy:

 

Yellowbox is much simpler thing:

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Welded some extra bits to the seat frame which was made for a bottom mounting Sparco, to fit a side mounting Racetech seat I had from a previous car, sat in it testing the position and making vroom noises before finalising the mount holes. Feels more natural slightly angled towards the accelerator pedal rather than straight ahead.

Racetech fitted:

I also put a factory passenger seat in. I figured I could use the Sparco in the N360 instead of putting it in this and with this factory passenger seat I'll be able to take the kids for rides with their seat strapped in.

Also finally found the right spacer bits to make the horn button fit/work. Not really worth taking a photo though, just picture a button where there was no button.

[~Slideways~]

Oh and my new wheels are at Customs in Auckland. Dunno how long this'll take, no doubt they will ask me for money. Not sure how they contact me.

Edit: I only know this because the japanese tracking told me so.

[~Slideways~]

My wife sent me a photo of these at the door, overnight from Japan (well, more like 60 days from Japan...but still...cool).

I'm stuck at work though. Dumb.

 

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First brand new wheels I've bought since ages ago. Only other time I have was some Performance Superlites which must be 15+ years ago now. Jebus...these years...fck.

Anyway, photos of things that I think are cool:

They have covers, cool...

 

They are Enkei RPF1 17x9.5 +18, so light its crazy.

 

On the car, I STILL need to bolt that guard down properly.

 

Miles of brake clearance which is always an issue with these Nissan 4 pots. But quite close to the coilovers.

I guess I'll find out if it touches once tyres are on. Maybe camber will help if needed.

 

 

Tried a 5mm spacer and its a bit better. About 5mm better, finger for reference:

 

I need to check how many turns the wheel nuts go on, if I use 5mm spaces I might need longer studs.

 

 

[Roman]

Just had a big catchup on this thread. 

This car is bloody awesome!

 

[~Slideways~]

1 hour ago, Roman said:

Just had a big catchup on this thread. 

This car is bloody awesome!

 

Thanks!

[Roman]

RPF1 are just so timeless. 

Light, strong, look cool. Cant go wrong