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Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.


~Slideways~

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More high fill primer on the roof and it's blocked back with much fewer high spots:

IMG_2440.jpg.5e005931c91bcc4722fa4fe1828cc1fd.jpg

 

Door jams and sills sanded to 320 grit, high filled and sanded back:

IMG_2443.jpg.2dd5f95e3806e2f3f1a77dda735aee2b.jpg

 

Almost at the stage where I can get some paint on the body, last part is the rear hatch jam? (I guess that's the name) so off came the hatch, very happy with the lack of rust here! Only some minor surface rust, nothing under the seals etc:

IMG_2448.jpg.1f4757c954703e587a84dc4322b5c9ae.jpg

 

The rear hatch is a bit warped from having a big wing mounted to it from it's previous life, so I got to the point where I won't worry about it not being a perfect finish there. The semi warp is flattened out when the duck tail wing is mounted anyway.

I also started putting together this damaged marquee I got for $40 on Trademe to see if it would work for painting since I don't want paint fumes in the house (garage under bedrooms). It had been in a storm so had some bends but I fixed that. Unfortunately I had to spend hours waterblasting the cover because the storm mud had been left on it and become ingrained.

IMG_2424.jpg.60545cc6adddbc61f80007a8d24f8b44.jpgIMG_2425.jpg.92118ae410b8cb3ebcf001c3e33e74fa.jpg

 

 

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Fitted rear quarter jobby tested wet sanding to clean up some of the orange peel.

Wet sanded 2000 grit on the fibreglass and it came out nice without too much effort, but unfortunately sanded a bit too much in one spot so will need to spray that bit again.

I haven't done the whole fibreglass quarter, only above the wheel and the upper rear bit to test, but it looks like this:

IMG_2550.jpg.f3bf8b3f91c8b1047f9ddd79f81cc3df.jpgIMG_2548.jpg.641df8924c6babf337d71764326fed56.jpgIMG_2549.jpg.213b8e1e1c47e81fc506a4f165b6ea92.jpg

 

Then I moved onto the roof and this turned out really nice! But again one small bit will need to be sprayed again... I guess that's all part of learning how to do stuff though. Trial and error.

 

Shiny roof! 

IMG_2551.jpg.daf5312d62ea2ca1f30649a6f1dd1c9e.jpg

 

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Great result for a first timer on the paint - it is satisfying when you get a nice finish.

 

My agm batteries are sweet if left isolated 3+months of neglecting a car and it'll still fire into life. If you.have a slight drain they seem to barely last at all.

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Just now, mjrstar said:

Great result for a first timer on the paint - it is satisfying when you get a nice finish.

 

My agm batteries are sweet if left isolated 3+months of neglecting a car and it'll still fire into life. If you.have a slight drain they seem to barely last at all.

Thanks re: paint, definitely satisfying. I can see where the cost comes from in a professional job.

For the AGM batteries, they are great but yeah it does appear to be a slight drain. It's my second one now, the first one was great but was cooked by a faulty alternator in the previous car. I parted that car out in order to build this one and I kept the battery plus bracket, its a couple of years old now with very little use. It was fine not that long ago, but left too long when I should have had it on a trickle charge. Live and learn...again.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some more prep progress on other stuff.

Filled some scratches and imperfections in the duck tail wing, then primed with this Rustoleum stuff the paint shop recommended for fibreglass:

IMG_2602.jpg.89b4029a7e59d699ecb9149334bb4d8a.jpg

 

Sanded back the drivers door, filled some shallow dents and high fill primed then blocked back again:

IMG_2605.jpg.b51479285b0f2bd86153f8fd3c624e8f.jpg

 

2000grit wet sanded the rest of the fibreglass rear quarters, came up pretty decent for fibreglass but I think next time I will spend more time getting the FG smoother. All part of practicing though:

IMG_2603.jpg.b0c705fe5675f11fc8e26cfd20247175.jpg

That looks dull because its before cut and polish.

 

Stupid SCA primer gun broke on me, there is a swivel joint that but snapped in half. Piece of crap, such cheap metal. But not too fused since it was just a 'free' one which came with a kit along with my old small compressor many years ago. Guess I'll need to buy a better one, my iwata w400 won't work with primer.

Deciding if to use the aftermarket rear bumper or not. It a genuine Origin Labo jobby that came on the parts car from Japan. I do have a standard rear bumper but I was planning on using that on the other 200sx.

 

IMG_2604.jpg.54a4273355019a6b88d11e6b8810a019.jpg

 

 

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Looking good!

I highly recommend spending a bit more on a battery and going to an LiFePo4. They are amazing. I've left mine for over a year and it still turned the car over without a worry. Make sure you isolate it completely when not in use though - I always remove the earth when the car gets back to the garage. 

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11 hours ago, Truenotch said:

Looking good!

I highly recommend spending a bit more on a battery and going to an LiFePo4. They are amazing. I've left mine for over a year and it still turned the car over without a worry. Make sure you isolate it completely when not in use though - I always remove the earth when the car gets back to the garage. 

Thanks, I had a quick look at prices just now and they aren't much more that an AGM one which is good, what about charging? Do they need a special one?

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You can use any regulated charger with an auto cutoff, but not an oldschool one or anything in decalcifying mode. They're designed to charge from a normal alternator circuit, so delivering ~14v to the terminals is absolutely fine. 

My Shorai has a little charge Port that allows for cell conditioning but you have to buy a special charger to do it. 

My neighbour bought another brand from AliExpress for his K24A Integra an he uses it daily. It was far cheaper than mine and seems to work mint - I'll see if he has a link to it. 

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On 8/31/2017 at 10:10, Truenotch said:

You can use any regulated charger with an auto cutoff, but not an oldschool one or anything in decalcifying mode. They're designed to charge from a normal alternator circuit, so delivering ~14v to the terminals is absolutely fine. 

My Shorai has a little charge Port that allows for cell conditioning but you have to buy a special charger to do it. 

My neighbour bought another brand from AliExpress for his K24A Integra an he uses it daily. It was far cheaper than mine and seems to work mint - I'll see if he has a link to it. 

Good point re: being charged via the alternator anyway. Thanks for the link, I'll have a look at some options.

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Old dishwashers make good paint table things.

Did some more painting, it was cold so I made a higher thinners to paint ratio it seemed to work but got a couple of bad runs which is annoying. Will let it dry for a few days and see if it will sand out.

IMG_2662.jpg.4f6246b8037b0b0577a2a6ed8138d19d.jpgIMG_2665.jpg.b1d2c10b477f28987f2ac219203abb03.jpg

 

On the duck tail wing I got a reaction in a couple of spots, maybe it was because there was more thinners...maybe that Rustoleum fibreglass primer was a bit thin after sanding it back. 

I'll sand those spots back again and respray.

 

Also replaced the silicon joiners on the intercooler piping with better ones, the old blue ones that came on the SR20 donor were super thin walled so decided to change now before getting the bumper painted and fitted.

Black joiners:

IMG_2667.jpg.f8248f274ab5447cea57ff26886aad70.jpg

More black joiners:

IMG_2666.jpg.c77ebc1aaf105a8c0602f51c5dd82a99.jpg

 

Black joiners as seen from a standing perspective:

IMG_2664.jpg.54b64d2446a718f946d7a81b01f37cd3.jpg

 

 

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