~Slideways~ Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 Also this link to the lvvta forum from a week ago seems to say they should pass: http://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/521/solid-engine-mounts And compared to the factory mounts, they are single bolt top and bottom separated by rubber, I'm not sure if they can actually split/pull apart but having a through bolt makes more sense. There is a crush tube in there with some space on each end for flex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Thats contradictory...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 4 minutes ago, Muncie said: Thats contradictory...... So is your mum. haha. Also, which part is contradictory? The bolt going all the way through? If so I was just referring to the LVVTA doc stating having a through bolt to stop engines running away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 The contradictory part is i know of a few people who have been knocked back on them, to then see someone say its fine leaves a grey area. Grey areas are annoying when your stuff gets pinged as been not up to scratch especially when you go to as much trouble as you have to get them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 1 minute ago, Muncie said: The contradictory part is i know of a few people who have been knocked back on them, to then see someone say its fine leaves a grey area. Grey areas are annoying when your stuff gets pinged as been not up to scratch especially when you go to as much trouble as you have to get them in. I totally agree, it seems it's down to the certifiers opinion. So I guess I'll see. I've been through 3 different certs but never with a mount like this so I will leave them in and see what they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Had had words that the hardrace s13 engine mounts with the matching transmission mount is like $310 shipped, supposedly in stock in NZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Perfect example of asking the certifier you will be using what they will be happy with rather than just relying on what the internet says and then getting butt hurt when you get turned down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 16 minutes ago, Beaver said: Perfect example of asking the certifier you will be using what they will be happy with rather than just relying on what the internet says and then getting butt hurt when you get turned down. With all of the work I've done to the car, these mounts were the last thing I thought I'd need an OK on, my bottom is quite comfortable, in the scheme of things its an easy fix if needed. As soon as it was pointed out they might be a problem I started looking into it. I know how difficult cert's can be I've used one of the more 'difficult' guys in my area twice now (about 10 years apart with totally different kinds of vehicle) and I fixed what needed fixing and was on my way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 36 minutes ago, SiRge said: Had had words that the hardrace s13 engine mounts with the matching transmission mount is like $310 shipped, supposedly in stock in NZ That's not too bad, I already have a fancy gearbox mount but its an option if needed. I only just got back into working on my projects again and had a long list of stuff to get done with a vague idea of maybe getting it to a state that I could trailer it to a track day in September for some testing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 6 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said: With all of the work I've done to the car, these mounts were the last thing I thought I'd need an OK on, my bottom is quite comfortable, in the scheme of things its an easy fix if needed. As soon as it was pointed out they might be a problem I started looking into it. I know how difficult cert's can be I've used one of the more 'difficult' guys in my area twice now (about 10 years apart with totally different kinds of vehicle) and I fixed what needed fixing and was on my way. Sorry wasn’t really aimed at you, you’re taking a very reasonable approach and are to be commended! was more of just a general comment about people making choices based on what some random person said, when the final answer comes down to the certifier. i also thought this was the cert thread lol so apologies for spamming up your project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 19 minutes ago, Beaver said: Sorry wasn’t really aimed at you, you’re taking a very reasonable approach and are to be commended! was more of just a general comment about people making choices based on what some random person said, when the final answer comes down to the certifier. i also thought this was the cert thread lol so apologies for spamming up your project No worries it's not really spam when talking about the topic. Plus this car isn't old school enough to have it's own discussion thread anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 Not very exciting jobs completed but needed to be done/ Installed new Motobatt AGM battery, used the tray and bracket I made for one of my old cars: Also added some p-clips every 25cm on the cable. I vaguely remember there being a requirement for every 30cm but couldn't find it again...so 25cm it is. Floor is dusty from sanding etc. Installed short clutch master, bled it etc. There is a bit of play in the pedal before it moves the rod so need to adjust that. Much better clearance off the downpipe now: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 On 03/08/2018 at 15:15, ~Slideways~ said: I only just got back into working on my projects again and had a long list of stuff to get done with a vague idea of maybe getting it to a state that I could trailer it to a track day in September for some testing. Which what when? If you go then I must go too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 1 minute ago, Adoom said: Which what when? If you go then I must go too. The CCC one on Sept 22nd I think, I'm trying my best to get it ready but only have so much time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 7, 2018 Author Share Posted August 7, 2018 Fixed play in the clutch pedal, it was because the holes for the clevis pin were larger than the original one. Swapped the rod end piece with the old one and all is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 Wasn't happy with the location of the hose inlet on one of the wastegates being too close to the turbo exhaust housing and only the top outlet ones can be moved. Ideally I'd take the manifold off and redo wastegate position but thats a shit load of work. If I have another reason to take the lot off later I will redo that bit. I couldn't find a 90deg barb option so I took the wastegate to bits to see if I could spin the bottom part of the housing. Turns out it's a symmetrical set of three bolts so it could be turned for a better position so, cool one less thing to sort out. It's much better but not ideal because it puts the hose barb above the wastegate outlet, way less heat but I'll still put in a bit of shielding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Consider using a banjo fitting or better still fit hardlines for wastegate plumbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 15 minutes ago, mjrstar said: Consider using a banjo fitting or better still fit hardlines for wastegate plumbing? Yep that was the plan until all local suppliers in the area were all like *sharp-intake-of-breath-through-teeth* "sorry mate nothing like that", the thread and size isn't common. Plus there is an over hang over the female thread too so it would need a spacer. Next option was drilling and tapping it but the over hang makes it hard and there isn't much alloy there to go much bigger. Then I took it apart and semi solved the problem. Stainless steel banjo's are stupid expensive too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) Quick couple of jobs over the weekend. Cut and filed holes to fit these guard indicators, they were off a Primera at Pick a Part: Wheels are a bit too wide on the front, not sure what I'm going to do here re: cert. I really want a set of 17x9.5 +18 RPF1's but they cost money. Cleaned the dust off it, was going to test drive and lost the clutch pedal. Looks to have a leak. Yay. Might need a new line. Attached the Apexi SAFC II to the dash. The dash looks like crap because it go dusty from bath room renovations, wiped it down and it dried looking terrible... will try some leather cleaning stuff I have somewhere. Have ordered: - Type-x bumper lights, after market ones that combine the position and indicators into one. - Spark Plugs, one heat range colder than stock. - Driveshaft loops, universals ones that I'll modify to fit. Might still need to order: - Dakota Digital speed correction once I test out the nissan speedo with R154 sensor. - A million things more. On 8/6/2018 at 10:47, Adoom said: Which what when? If you go then I must go too. Looks like work will mean I can't get to this track day, plus its asking for trouble not having any opportunity to test it before going on the track. So I've decided to concentrate on getting it certified and on the road, that way I can find any issues and get the SAFC tuned on some private roads. Then find out how the clutch handles what ever power it makes etc etc. Edited August 13, 2018 by ~Slideways~ Learning how fingers operate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 You might consider a yellowbox speed corrector. Made in Aussie, I use one, rather happy with it and the service. Let's you display top speed too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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