~Slideways~ Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 Injectors arrived, got Xpurt 1000cc's. Silly name... But they fit nice: I cleaned up the intake manifold since I had it off to remove the factory wiring loom: While there I decided to remove the fuel damper to simplify the fuel lines, less connections and probably less restriction. Plus whether it would be working as intended after 20 years and also a much more powerful pump with completely different injectors. Plus its weight removed...not much but it add up. I want to weigh the difference between the factory loom + ecu + MAF and the Link + looms once I've finished cutting up the loom. Might even be a few kg? Damper jobby which normally sits under the intake manifold inline between the fuel filter and rail: Some spaghetti: I need to read through the Link help file but am I correct in thinking the Link injector and coil wires are providing the positive current rather than being a switched ground? If so, will the ground wires need to come from the ground wires from the ecu loom or are they ground straight to the block? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 Oh yeah, I think a good amount of wiring weight will be saved since there are so many unused ones in this: Haven't picked up the R35 coils and plugs yet, I asked if he could source some Toyota plugs but he's having trouble finding someone with stock. I'm not sure if the ones NZEFI etc sell are aftermarket or if they source from Toyota. Maybe I could try Toyota genuine parts. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 the link switches negative so you need to provide voltage to the injectors and coils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 8 minutes ago, sheepers said: the link switches negative so you need to provide voltage to the injectors and coils. Cool thanks that makes sense, I'm downloading PCLink now to install on my work laptop. Not supposed to but I have admin rights and I'm still being made redundant anyway Lol. What are they going to do? Make me extra redundant? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 they'll make you double redundant! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 3 hours ago, sheepers said: the link switches negative so you need to provide voltage to the injectors and coils. Suggest your common injector power feed is at very minimum 20a relay and 15a fuse. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 Got more bits: Surprisingly expensive loom plugs: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 Have the R35 GTR coils and plugs but missing the plug pins when delivered so need to get those still: They fit but the height means the breather cross over is in the way. You can get after market shorter stalks from a few places so I'll probably do that then make some support brackets myself since the ones on the market are like $400+ Plus the shorter stalks makes the bracket a bit easier to make. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 Contemplating whether to install cams, out of interest I took the cam cover off and found this nice little surprise: The outside was covered in some JB weld type stuff so I ground it back to find some very porous aluminium welding and a nice missing bit... I bought a TIG welder a while ago but I'm not sure I can fix this being a total novice. I've ordered some high silicon content filler rod, will have a test and see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 I reckon you'll struggle trying to fix that. Tbh I wouldn't attempt that. It's a perfect storm of contamination, previous porosity and nasty shit. Either get another one or leave it like it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 9 minutes ago, sheepers said: I reckon you'll struggle trying to fix that. Tbh I wouldn't attempt that. It's a perfect storm of contamination, previous porosity and nasty shit. Either get another one or leave it like it is. Yeah I think you are right, last time I tested welding some cast stuff it was difficult but that was using what I think was the wrong filler rod. Maybe I should brake clean it then put some jb weld on the outside and I could try form that outside bit with a dremel. Then keep a look out for a spare, according to the internet its quite common if you over torque them (like 5Nm) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 I have successfully welded a cast aluminium sump (ls). Heat the snot out of it with a torch then weld a big fat thick bead over the area. Push in heaps of filler rod. The finished weld may be porus and will likely have craters full of black shit sitting in the surface. Grind all of this off and weld it again. For me the first weld would drag all the shit out, second weld was always perfect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 5, 2019 Author Share Posted October 5, 2019 9 hours ago, flyingbrick said: I have successfully welded a cast aluminium sump (ls). Heat the snot out of it with a torch then weld a big fat thick bead over the area. Push in heaps of filler rod. The finished weld may be porus and will likely have craters full of black shit sitting in the surface. Grind all of this off and weld it again. For me the first weld would drag all the shit out, second weld was always perfect. I think what I'll do is wait for the new filler rod to arrive and practice on something else then decide what to do. Plenty of other stuff to do either way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 5, 2019 Share Posted October 5, 2019 Depends on the quality of the aluminium I have had both the sheepers and flying brick experiences. The cleaner you can get it the better, maybe even consider some acid scrub to really get in there. But yeah could very easily turn into a gooey melty mess, I would expect even relatively experienced tig operator would only be at 50:50 odds of a good result with the amount of crap in there which is not aluminium. If it was a virgin rocker cover with a nice tight join like welding on some breather fittings then yip not a problem.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 One of the plugs came with non-crimp type plug connectors well I haven’t seen them like this anyway, can anyone tell me if these are meant to be soldered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 It's a deutsch plug. They are meant to be crimped, can't comment on soldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 15 minutes ago, BlownCorona said: It's a deutsch plug. They are meant to be crimped, can't comment on soldering. Ok so instead of ‘normal’ fold over type crimping I guess I just insert the wire and crimp the ‘tube’ area. Good to know the name, now I can look up if it needs a special crimper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 it does, and they are super expensive. is the loom portable? could take it somewhere to have that one done? great plugs though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 11, 2019 Author Share Posted October 11, 2019 Just now, BlownCorona said: it does, and they are super expensive. is the loom portable? could take it somewhere to have that one done? great plugs though Well that’s annoying, it’s the only one like this. I’ll figure something out, I think it was for the Air intake temp sensor so not a big deal. Thanks for the info. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ~Slideways~ Posted October 11, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 11, 2019 In other news, as predicted this was a fkcn messy nightmare to weld but it’s looking okay now. Crack is gone and I’ve filled in the missing bit. Full disclosure, I could stick my finger through a big melty hole at one stage. But no harm in trying and it’s looking ok. Still have to die grind the gasket groove and shape the outside a bit more. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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