Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.

[~Slideways~]

[~Slideways~]

Needed to drain and move the radiator for enough room to get it out. But a reasonably easy job considering the engine shouldn’t be there.

Tight fit between pulley and fan:

 

[~Slideways~]

It’s now a healthy 14.3v even with the fans going.

Roads are semi dry so I chose an up hill section to test boost control and AFR’s.

In 2nd boost is about 0.6 to 0.7bar. Pulls like a mother decker. Yes auto correct, of course I meant decker. But it gets crazy rich, mostly in the 10’s but briefly I saw 9.6:1!

In 3rd it’s staying in the 10’s. I think the fuel pump might be bit happy with more volts. And what I was seeing before May have been due to lower voltage available and maybe filter starting to limit flow.

Thinking about how much difference a few psi will make, purely to lean it out a bit under boost.

 

i have an old gizmo EBC but the wire broke off of the solenoid leaving only a couple of mm’s to try solder to. My solder is refusing to stick.

A new solenoid is about $100.

 

Could just test with a bleed valve I guess.

 

[Stu]

It is just a three port solenoid you need?

[~Slideways~]

3 hours ago, Stu said:

It is just a three port solenoid you need?

Yep, I managed to get a bit more wire exposed by removing/digging out the plastic molding. It now clicks with power so hopefully its ok now.

I'm surprised how expensive they are!

[Stu]

I have a source... if it doesnt work out send me a PM

[shrike]

1 hour ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Yep, I managed to get a bit more wire exposed by removing/digging out the plastic molding. It now clicks with power so hopefully its ok now.

I'm surprised how expensive they are!

Have brought the cheap ones from China and have had 0 issues

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAC-ECU-3-Port-Electronic-Boost-Control-Solenoid-Valve-35A-AAA-DDAA-1BA-PWM/123364195550?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC12V-5-4W-35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA-3-Port-Electronic-Boost-Control-Solenoid-Valve-AU/123621678198?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57927%26meid%3D71f8dc7732dd4be88cba68a3e5b22914%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D123364195550%26itm%3D123621678198%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Could not tell the difference between it and ones from other sources

[Stu]

Exactly.  There are cheaper sources again if you hunt around.

[~Slideways~]

Weighed it at the local metal recyclers and it’s about 1239kg with a full tank of petrol.

Google says 180sx’s were 1220kg not sure if that’s CA or SR and if that’s full tank or not, but either way that’s not bad at all considering the bigger engine, intercooler stuff, much bigger brakes etc.

Still has heavy passenger seat, but that’s probably only about 20kg.

Plan to make a fibreglass panel for the sunroof too. 

Over all not too bad with the 1jz in there. Will be interesting to see the weight distribution. These were never 50:50 though.

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Oh actually it had a spare battery and heavy duty jumper leads behind the seats after that alternator issue. 

So maybe 10kg less? 

[~Slideways~]

After testing the Gizzmo IBC boost controller, yes its pretty old but its still newer than the engine haha.

It works well and even at 14psi it is still in the 10:1 AFR range, but I really didn't know if it was ok with knock etc so decided I'd better pay for some dyno time even though there isn't much that can be adjusted with the SAFC II.

It drives fine and is well mannered.

So on the dyno it made 260kw atw on 14psi still running rich, but he didn't try more boost because he detected some knock around 4500rpm, tried adding and removing fuel, but without ignition control he wasn't able to stop it. On low boost 9-10psi (225kw) it's okay but if it got hot at the track it might cause heat knock.

On the road it'll be fine on low boost but I built it to take to the track so I am going to have to figure out the best option for an Ecu. He said I could use a Link G4 Monsoon which is cheaper but would lose idle control due to having less outputs.

Then it's the slippery slope again...

If I am paying for a full tune I should install 1000cc injectors, which will need a bigger fuel pump. That leaves it open to E85, but that needs new fuel lines and a flex fuel sensor.

So:

Injectors

Fuel Pump

Clutch upgrade

Fuel lines

Link ECU

Link Looms

Wire myself but needs new all the plugs etc (or do I re-use the toyota loom?).

Then full tune at about $899

 

That'll get me around 300kw and an better power curve...lots of money though.

If I upgrade the cams it'll be able to make 350kw+ but they are $1000+ then install.

 

Rock and a hard place... 

 

OR just install a link and see what it'll do with the 550cc injectors and Walbro 255 pump. BUT then its another retune if I go with bigger injectors later.

 

Any heres the dyno sheet dyno, 260kw is pretty good but I can't use it!

 

 

[mjrstar]

Mate of mine will have an upgraded link g3/g4 which has been tuned for his mid 500kw supra coming up for grabs shortly. It would probably be available with the loom to suit jz with ID injectors at the right price. 

 

He has his eye on my other mates Emtron kv8.. 

 

/ could you dial back the base timing to give you some headway? 

 

I can ask him about pricing and what it would potentially come with if you want? 

[~Slideways~]

1 hour ago, mjrstar said:

Mate of mine will have an upgraded link g3/g4 which has been tuned for his mid 500kw supra coming up for grabs shortly. It would probably be available with the loom to suit jz with ID injectors at the right price. 

 

He has his eye on my other mates Emtron kv8.. 

 

/ could you dial back the base timing to give you some headway? 

 

I can ask him about pricing and what it would potentially come with if you want? 

Definitely keen to know more! I wonder if it would be suitable to run vvti? I’m not sure whether it’s any output or if it needs something specific to run it. I noticed plug in 2jz link ecus aren’t available for vvti which is a bit strange.

Also, lol 500kw, Jesus fucking fuck.

 

EDIT: interesting thought re base ign timing. 

[~Slideways~]

Looking like a Link G4+ Storm would be a good fit. They are about $2k new, found one new unused locally for $1600, not sure what the deal is with unlocking them but he also has the looms and some sensors.

He also has a G4 xtreme, not sure if its the older model but I don't think I really need the xtreme.

Currently contemplating whether a full rewire with the A and B looms (plus getting all new plugs) or if I should reuse the Toyota engine loom and pinned into the Link A and B plugs.

- The two 2.5m looms are $460 (plus all new plugs for sensors about $20 each through NZEFI )

I guess that way I could resell the complete loom and ECU with the wires labelled since it took so much time to figure that out.

- Two ecu plugs are $130 which is much cheaper but I'd end up with a lot of unused wires. I'd remove them later.

 

 

[~Slideways~]

And I need to decide what to do about injectors.

It makes sense to upgrade to 1050x ID's or Bosch's ones so I can tune it on 98 now and then later have the option of ethanol flex fuel while using that same 98 map.

My Walbro 255 pump probably won't keep up with that.

Or just stick with the 550cc's and walbro 255 jobby then see what they will supply. The tuner said they would be marginal on whether they could supply enough for 300kw on 98.

The internet says on a 1jz it works out to be 1cc per hp. So if that incredibly convenient calculation is at the flywheel, it'd be 550hp and maybe 20% loss making it 440hp/330kw atw?

Without cams or ethanol these seem to make around the 300kw atw mark.

But if I stick with the 550's it would mean more dyno time later to remap for bigger ethanol injectors.

E85 isn't available at the pump in Wellington as far as I know. But Llama Engineering can supply it by the barrel.

 

[mjrstar]

It's a g3 link upgraded to g4 software, new 4 bar map sensor. New wiring bare loom plus additional pre wired loom with bosch ev14 injector plugs and plugs for ls chev coils. 

Can come with startup base maps to suit 1000cc or 2000cc injectors. Note that its setup to run multi fire injectors and waste spark. 

$900

Pm me your email address and can put you in contact, he has not started the rewire yet so may not be in a mega rush to sell. 

[~Slideways~]

Alrighty ended up buying a Link G4+ storm and I am going to replace the engine loom.

I’ve outsourced that job to my little girl so that’s under control:

 

[~Slideways~]

Back home again after taking kids to the Gold Coast, still looking around for a job, pressure was off because the redundancy was deferred for a few months. (read: horrifically badly managed restructure).

Anyway, back to wiring. I've started pulling out the jzx100 engine loom. Hoping I can sell it with the manual ECU as an engine swap package (maybe with MAF and o2 sensor) since I spent all that time figuring out which wires are which, so its all labelled etc. 

Have also ordered:

1000cc injectors and plugs/pins, will sell the 540cc's 

DW400 fuel pump, will use the Walbro in the N360.

3bar Map sensor

 

Will be changing the 1jz wasted spark coils to Coil on Plug, since the factory ones are known to be a limiting factor, either Yaris 1NZ coils or R35 VR38 coils. R35 seems to be the go to coil-on-plug these days, found a supplier of new Genuine Nissan ones for cheaper than the new Toyota Yaris ones (supposed to be pretty good).

 

That's a decent chunk of money I didn't intend to spend for a few years! But I'll save a bunch by wiring it myself and then sell off what I don't need anymore (SAFC II, MAF, ECU, Loom, 02 sensor, Yellowbox rpm jobby etc etc). Will use the Dakota Digital speedo thing on the N360 motorbike engine thing.

 

Also looking to sell my owner Argo Shield bottle, unsure what its worth. Its a big one at 3.2m3 but it's out of test, no reason it shouldn't pass but I'm not sure its worth doing.

[shrike]

3 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Have also ordered:

1000cc injectors and plugs/pins, will sell the 540cc's 

I just got some 2200cc injectors from these guys (9A build)

https://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/bosch-2200cc

Are 1000cc enough for what you are after?

Quote

Will be changing the 1jz wasted spark coils to Coil on Plug, since the factory ones are known to be a limiting factor, either Yaris 1NZ coils or R35 VR38 coils. R35 seems to be the go to coil-on-plug these days, found a supplier of new Genuine Nissan ones for cheaper than the new Toyota Yaris ones (supposed to be pretty good).

Where did you source the r35 coils from I am keen for 8 of them (1 set for my 9a and one for my next speeduino build)

[~Slideways~]

2 hours ago, shrike said:

I just got some 2200cc injectors from these guys (9A build)

https://www.aftermarketindustries.com.au/bosch-2200cc

Are 1000cc enough for what you are after?

Where did you source the r35 coils from I am keen for 8 of them (1 set for my 9a and one for my next speeduino build)

The turbo is supposed to be good for 550-600hp I assume at the crank, so the injectors will be fine for that.

With a Link I initially was aiming for 300kw atw without cams on 98 which the 540cc would have been pushing it.

With cams it'll probably be around 350kw atw. I've been told 400kw could be achievable.

Ethanol is still a bit of a pain here in Wellington so at this stage I'll see what it does on 98.

In saying that, the 1jz vvti engines have smaller exhaust ports for the early spool and 2500rpm max torque so 400kw atw would be plenty.

EDIT: for a 9a its a bit different with only 4 injectors too.

 

I'm getting the coils from a PRP stockist in Wellington 

https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/dealers/stockists-retailers/

There is also someone on Trademe selling them for $120 each, new trader though so I'm going with the local guy.