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Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.


~Slideways~

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  • 2 weeks later...

Shortened the R35 coils using these jobbies (white bits) made by Franklin Engineering in Napier.

Have to shorten the internal spring as well.

IMG_4380.jpg.5fafb916f25ce44d2eb0bf7652732481.jpg

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IMG_4873.jpg.2f479fef1ddc87dc6e176f0d24a6c329.jpg

 

Now they fit better, especially under the breather cross over pipe and there is more room for the loom plugs.

IMG_4876.jpg.d48cbc401cd5f85aa208a115c1be4140.jpg

Started testing out a cardboard CAD bracket to support them:

IMG_4885.jpg.91193f6b3ab49e72a8bf9672b6db0ef3.jpg

 

IMG_4883.jpg.cf54b8b7e5b5db9cf3013d05fb695acb.jpg

 

I'll make them out of some 6mm thick aluminium, I could buy some CNC made ones but they are really expensive, so trying to save around $350~ by making them myself.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

On my last two COP conversions I used 20mm acetal round bar in black, just drilled through to space the coil to the correct height then drill/tap hole onto mounting plate. 20180912_165250_compress87.jpg.46e4ac89a177dad391fe2f35133be9c8.jpg

 

Cheap, light, and easy to machine. (if that is the problem you are trying to cure) 

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On 07/11/2019 at 21:52, mjrstar said:

On my last two COP conversions I used 20mm acetal round bar in black, just drilled through to space the coil to the correct height then drill/tap hole onto mounting plate. 20180912_165250_compress87.jpg.46e4ac89a177dad391fe2f35133be9c8.jpg

 

Cheap, light, and easy to machine. (if that is the problem you are trying to cure) 

I can’t really picture what you mean but I think I have a good solution now.

I’ve remade the first plate to add a tab for support and a bit more area for the mounting bolts to the coils.

Have made all three now, need to get a threat tap the right size and see if it works.

FFA44D1B-FEB6-470C-A3B6-F2DF460099AB.jpeg.13ff5e36dc2f923a031c8594257085b0.jpeg

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I bought a good crimping tool because I was struggling to get nice crimps using the Fuller auto wire stripper that happened to have the right type of crimp in the handle. It was such a piece of shit, well it stripped wires nicely at least.

New tool is about 1 million times better and makes it a much more enjoyable.

Nice out of focus crimps:

IMG_4916.jpg.9e3a6650917c4e4b3a69e2fd3b6bc8d5.jpg

Completed injector plug section:

IMG_4970.jpg.a9d858b0652c72fbe9048872c556d6d9.jpg

Also completed the Coil on plug stuff and that section of loom:

There is bugger all room for the COP loom plugs, a couple of mm clearance between each plug and the mount for the next coil, but I guess they weren't designed to be there.

IMG_4973.jpg.b57d9f6a2b48db661ad5c7db640d7b90.jpg

 

The space for the coil mount bolt hole is small too, if I move it anywhere else the loom plug touches the cam cover or the other coil. But its in there!

IMG_4966.jpg.ab8a785c2ccd3ad821999cc4f77a018f.jpg

 

I ended up making up some spacers out of some random scrap tube, I think it might be A/C hard line? Then oval'd it to fit in the space. Might tig it to the plate but its good as is:

IMG_4964.jpg.dcd56b70efd5dd85dcfc41af5a871a46.jpg

 

I'm contemplating seeing what the stock clutch will handle on the dyno instead of taking it all out. I mean it handled 260 wheel kw's so I wonder if it'll handle 300? Probably not...

 

 

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On 11/10/2019 at 17:50, ~Slideways~ said:

needs a special crimper

hey, just saw this, im assuming you need/needed a bootlace crimper

we use the 4 sided ones at work for these

IBLFs.jpg

let me know if you want to borrow one if you havent already sorted

 

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2 hours ago, datlow said:

hey, just saw this, im assuming you need/needed a bootlace crimper

we use the 4 sided ones at work for these

IBLFs.jpg

let me know if you want to borrow one if you havent already sorted

 

Hey man thanks for that, I’ll let you know if I need to. Current plan is to check if the guy doing to tune has one to just do it then.

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Might be a silly question but since there are higher spec Link G4+ ecu's (I'm using a Storm g4+ black) and the A+B looms are generic, does that mean all of the extra wires can be removed/ depinned? i.e. the wires for higher spec ecu's with more outputs etc, where my wiring plug diagram has some blank spaces.

 

  

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1 hour ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Might be a silly question but since there are higher spec Link G4+ ecu's (I'm using a Storm g4+ black) and the A+B looms are generic, does that mean all of the extra wires can be removed/ depinned? i.e. the wires for higher spec ecu's with more outputs etc, where my wiring plug diagram has some blank spaces.

 

  

Yep

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Alrighty:

- new tank is in and also painted

- installed a new Deatsch Werks DW400 E85 pump

- have moved the hard lines away from the exhaust

- fitted e-85 safe braided hose everywhere except one last non-e85 bit on the inlet of fuel rail (just future proofing for e85 later)

- wrapped exhaust and fitted more heat shielding near gbox because it was soaking up a lot of heat

- engine loom is done and wired into rad fans, fuel pump, etc etc

- also extended the turbos 4" inlet pipe with some pie cut jobbies so I can fit a 4" inlet K&N (previously I had a reducer to fit to the old MAF, and a 3.something" inlet air filter)

 

Testing Link wiring and have a couple of issues to sort out before I know if the rest works.

1. I appear to be getting power back feeding through the Boost control solenoid (MAC jobby). Meaning the ECU Hold Power never turns off if the solenoid is plugged in. I don't really understand why though because it is getting 12v ign switched and ground is via the Link's 8th injector output set to 'Boost Solenoid'. This seems to be a common problem but I haven't figured it out yet. It shares the power line with the VVti solenoid but it doesn't make a difference if it is plugged in or not.

2. I get the same issue with the radiator fan relays back feeding power. If I test the relays with the G4+ software it triggers the fans fine.

 

The Ecu hold power function looks to work fine, the Ignition Switch triggers the Digital Input as it should and shows hold power as active, turn of ign and the ecu stays on for a bit then I can hear the Main Relay click and it turns off. But as soon as I plug in one of the above, the power doesn't turn off. I can leave everything else plugged in and I get no issues. So it must be power back feeding through the earth of the aux wires on both, but they are both wired to switched power so there must be something wrong with the wiring of the relays maybe?.

A diode wouldn't work in a ground wire would it?

 

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I've had this same issue too, but it was a lot more subtle (and so lasted for years! Was draining my battery flat slowly)

The problem is that ALL relays that the ECU controls, need to be fed their 12v supply from ignition switched power. 
As in, you cant feed them direct from the battery.
Otherwise some wizard magic happens and the ECU gets voltage coming in through the outputs.
I'm not sure how the hold power relay works, but I'm guessing this needs to somehow be wired as an exception.

It sounds like your boost solenoid / vvti relay possibly arent through ignition switched power? 

There was an exception to this on using some of the outputs, but I cant remember.

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