Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.

[~Slideways~]

On 03/04/2023 at 18:36, kpr said:

Ive pulled one of those (vvti pulley) apart a million times.   pretty basic. but can put the together backwards hah.     only thing i suggest doing is sitting it on the cam and making sure it freely rotates through tis whole travel. there isn't really anything that locates them central,  if get them a little off can bind up at at one end of the travel.   I usually put it on the cam and rotate it back and forward nipping up the bolts. 

Thanks man, good advice. They look super easy to assemble due to the match marks, but I think I know which part you mean (the smallest centre one) that can be put in backwards?

Don't suppose you have a source for the correct o-ring maybe?

I've been to the local o-ring supplier and I did buy two that were closest but I don't think they are going to work now. One is Viton but slightly too thick, it needs to be worked/stretch like all of those rebuild videos do, it then fits the groove but sits too high with not enough room to compress/expand.

The other fits perfectly but is Nitrile so rated to only 100 degrees. So not really good enough.

Shipping is insane from overseas for the ones listed on Amazon etc. Like $40 shipping for one o-ring!? Goleby's in Aus have a listing but it doesn't say if it is Viton, so I've messaged them to see. Hopefully that isn't as ridiculous for shipping.

 

 

 

[Honda Ass Dragger]

If you need help getting stuff for OZ happy to assist 

[kpr]

Nar sorry, ones ive been using were bran new.  ( they are about 220 on amayama)  
yeah the small gear. it kinda looks like its backwards when its in the right way

[~Slideways~]

Got the long block back a while ago.

 

 

[~Slideways~]

Remembered a while ago that I needed to replace the o-ring in the VVti pulley.

Toyota don't sell the o-ring, only a complete pulley.

I thought surely it can't be that hard to find a suitable one. There are a few people that sell nice Viton o-rings specifically for this but at $20 USD for the o-ring plus $40 to $160 postage (wtf 165??) I wanted to try source locally.

Golbey's in Aus sell one, but didn't specify if Viton or not. I asked and they confirmed it is only Nitrile, which isn't really suitable since it appear to only handle 100deg C. When Viton is 200ish.

Went to one of the local o-ring places, bought one that looked like it would work. Turned out to be slightly too thick. 

Then I found Seal Innovations' website has a search function where you can specify the ID and the width/thickness of the o-ring, plus the material. Found one that I thought would be perfect but it is out of stock, a week later they said it was now in the country but still being processed then it'll be sent to Wellington.

Long story short I picked it up yesterday and it looks to be a perfect fit. 

That held me up for about 3 weeks...I really should have looked into it earlier.

 

Here is the very perished and flat o-ring:

 

VVti pulley has locating grooves for all three gears, plus a match mark so is simple enough to put back together, just remember to mark the timing beforehand.

 

 

 

[~Slideways~]

This water hard line points to the turbo down pipe, and gets in the way. It is the outlet for the heater, which is on the other side in the Nissan vs the Toyota.

So I cut it off and welded it up, plus jb weld to be sure.

 

Gives more clearance and simplifies the water lines by moving the hose to the other side of the engine. Normally the rest of the hard line is just to feed the oil cooling sandwich plate and the water feed to the idle stepper motor controller jobby. 

So I made a hole on that side which is under the intake manifold and much closer to the heater inlet on the firewall.

Welded on, yes it's coming from a smaller pipe but I don't think it'll cause too much problem with the heaters water flow. Also covered with a little JB Weld since I had it.

[~Slideways~]

Another thing I wanted to change was the location of the second wastegate, it works but the vacuum line gets too hot. I've tried a few things to solve it but now that it's all out I will move the wastegate up and away from the heat. It means changing both ends of the wastegate but it'll be worth it.

 

Cut off:

 

Test fit on engine to see what I can do, it's easy enough to just raise it up but the hard part is making sure the exit doesn't get in the way of the brake master cylinder.

 

It was looking quite close so I ended up putting the engine back in so I can be sure. 

 

Bloody good to have it back in, but since I didn't have the pulley o-ring at this stage it still need the cam belt and pulleys etc.

Got TGP bits to finish that:

[~Slideways~]

The other thing to sort was injectors, the st215 ones I had been using had cracks in the plastic of a few. Another 2 flowed 8-10% less than the others.

So I thought to keep it simple I will buy some brand new genuine denso/toyota injectors.

Found a seller on ebay with lots of good feed back, selling these exact injectors and stating 100% guarantee genuine.

They were $299 AUD, not $50 sets from Aliexpress. So I thought I was safe. About $400 NZD landed.

They arrived and many things pointed to being fakes. They even came in 'genuine' Toyota boxes.

In the end the most glaring was the pintle cap holes are rough compared to real ones.

I noticed the bar code looked very generic, i.e. repeating patterns which shouldn't happen.

I went back to the seller and they 'don't know what you are talking about' and 'I sell these to Toyota Service Centres in NSW'.

I even spoke to Mark at Toyota in NZ and he said the label was convincing but the number used was not correct. I tested a bar code reader on the cambelt I bought recently and the barcode matches the part number on the label, but these fake labels just display gibberish.

He has agreed to a refund and I have sent them back. 

 

So that was/is a pain in the arse to deal with but as long as Ebay's refund system actually work I should be ok. What a cnut though.

 

[~Slideways~]

That now leaves me with what to do.

I can't get new injectors, Toyota NZ confirm they are not available.

Next option is to get some Bosch 630cc's (from a known supplier, because fck that noise) so they still have a pintle cap for a proper spray pattern. I message the local guy and he is certain that I should just use the Xspurt 1000's that I originally did. He was going to talk to Chris at Prestige but haven't heard back yet.

I guess they do work, but not efficiently.

 

[~Slideways~]

I also ended up send the Link ECU back to Link in Christchurch to put it through their stress testing etc. It made sense since I had no explanation for the intermittent misfire. That GOD DAMN misfire I have been chasing for bloody years.

A few weeks later and I have had a reply stating:

Visual inspection revealed a solder blob between IGN5 and 14V NOT making a direct short circuit.

This could change under load +temperature+humidity ratio conditions.

Fault however could not be replicated on the bench.

Removed solder ball and tested ECU.

Passed functional stress test.

 

So not a certain cause but also a possible cause? All of this time and it may have been a manufacturing defect completely out of my control? ...fck.

[kpr]

Tuned a  1.5jz  with all the good bits on it the other day.  had those xpert injectors in it. maybe the 1350cc version, still a decap'd bosch either way.     was happily making over 400kw, no drama tuning it. 

you can also get the genuine 7 hole bosch injectors which are 980cc.  if dont want a modified injector

[~Slideways~]

On 06/05/2023 at 08:52, kpr said:

Tuned a  1.5jz  with all the good bits on it the other day.  had those xpert injectors in it. maybe the 1350cc version, still a decap'd bosch either way.     was happily making over 400kw, no drama tuning it. 

you can also get the genuine 7 hole bosch injectors which are 980cc.  if dont want a modified injector

Yeah I am leaning towards just using the 1000cc Xpurts again. A few people have said they should be fine. I not sure what the problem was with them appearing to make it run rich at high rpm. Maybe it was number 4 not completing combustion or something similar?

 

[~Slideways~]

Chipping away at this again.

Have put the Xspurt 1000's back in and looked like not too much to do until I wrote out a full page of stuff just off the top of my head.

Took the Vvti solenoid banjo bolt/filter out and cleaned it, quite a bit of junk in there.

Cleaned out and blasted with the air compressor as well.

 

Installed new genuine timing belt and tensioner, front timing covers mostly back on.

Cam cover gaskets, goo and installed back on head.

Bolted pressure plate to flywheel which has to be done through the inspection holes.

Reinstalled knock sensors, oil cooler/filter housing, cleaned out the oil cooler as a precaution but it all came out clean anyway, positioned engine loom and plugged in what I can so far like injectors, oil pressure, knock sensors starter etc etc. 

Getting there, lots of life distractions like the dog degloving her paw which was/is rough.

 

[~Slideways~]

To solve the problem of one of the wastegates being in a tight spot and melting vacuum lines, after trying heatshields and all sorts, the only really solution was to cut it off and raise it higher. 

Which took a surprising amount of test fitting to make sure it didn't foul on anything else.

So I lifted it up this much:

 

But now you can sort of make out that the wastegate outlet goes nowhere since I had to cut that off too.

 

A bit of cutting and changing the angle it goes into the y-piece and this should work. It looks like I didn't change much but it was miles off before.

 

So now I needed to take the top of the wastegate off and twist the base of the diaphragm housing, to make the vacuum port point away from the heat. Which I couldn't do before.

Unfortunately 1 of the allen screws was seized in there, I bent the allen key and eventually rounded the hole too. Fck.

Tried a few other tricks but the bugger would not come out.

It's always the last bolt.

So I mig'd the allen key to the head and got the damn thing out.

Bastard:

 

 

Hopefully not too hard to find a replacement. Thread is just M6 and a2-70 means it's 304 stainless. So unless the head is some weird tapper, it should be fine to replace it.

 

I also cut off the old un-used oxygen sensor and welded up the hole to make a blanking plate:

 

Taking the opportunity to make small improvements like this while it's apart again, will make it really nice to work on in the future. Like the water pipe I modified earlier now means that I can fit and remove this big (3.5" diameter) downpipe without having to remove anything else.

 

 

[mjrstar]

You could consider hard line with a flare and an AN dash fitting for the boost reference on the wastegate where heat is an issue...

Then connect your rubber hose somewhere closer to the boost control solenoid.. works well after I suggested this on a mates 2jz with twin wastegate gate twin scroll with one wastegate well tucked away into a hot spot.. he also has water cooling to keep the diaphragm in tact... 

[~Slideways~]

15 hours ago, mjrstar said:

You could consider hard line with a flare and an AN dash fitting for the boost reference on the wastegate where heat is an issue...

Then connect your rubber hose somewhere closer to the boost control solenoid.. works well after I suggested this on a mates 2jz with twin wastegate gate twin scroll with one wastegate well tucked away into a hot spot.. he also has water cooling to keep the diaphragm in tact... 

The main issue is that the thread is a stupid one which no one has and there is no room to tap it. Turbosmart eventually made their own, which I used with an AN fitting which helped but still got really hot.

The other issue is when I designed the manifold I didn't take into account this being a tight spot, hindsight etc.

This should solve the problem though.

 

[~Slideways~]

Found the right screws at Anzor, same head taper, allen size, 'THE' manufacturer and same 304 stainless.

16mm long, so maybe 1.5mm longer than the originals but they don't bottom out so work fine:

Repainted the manifold:

 

Decided to heat wrap the manifold, not too worried about rust since its thick wall stuff:

 Back on the engine:

Also painted and wrapped the wastegate outlet to dump y piece:

[~Slideways~]

Bugger, its been 10months since that last post I really wanted to have this back on the road by now but so many things keep happening. Life or other car projects I thought would make me some money but now the car market has really slowed down so not much point anymore. 

One was a pink mx5 with a bad paint job. Thought I'd tidy it up but the paint was so bad I ended up stripping it back to bare metal. The labour just isn't worth it, but I can't stop now.

So this pink jobby has been in the way:

I even started working on the 200sx up a bloody ladder lol...

 

I have bare metal resprayed some bits of the pink one and made it red:

Now I've moved the pink car out of the way since these bits above are done. It'll go on the back burner now and I can lower the 200sx down again.

 

 

I've kind of lost track of where I am with it but decided to just start on something.

Which was to modify the coil adapter plates, I was never happy with the spacers to bolt the coils to the plate (10mm tubes siting on top with a bolt through and not enough threads into the plates) so I cut up some 10mm alloy plates to tig weld to the original adapter plates instead.

When I made the adapter plates originally, I didn't know how to TIG weld aluminium. I still don't....but I did my best lol.

This is the best one. The others are too horrifying to put on the internet but they work and I'm getting better haha

 

I don't think I took photo's while making it but here is the raised better location for the 2nd wastegate:

 

At some stage I made a blanking plate for the o2 sensor in the downpipe. Also oil feed and drain fitted.

 

And here it is with all 3 adapter plates welded and mounted:

 

[~Slideways~]

Crank bolt has to be torqued to 239ft/lbs

Mine only goes to 150ft/lbs.

Also don't have the TOYOTA SST to hold the crank pulley in place.

 

So off the the scrap pile and made this happy looking thing:

 

Worked well and easy to get it to 150ft/lbs.

Now for the other 89, I'll have to find a bigger torque wrench, one of those torque multiplier jobbies or maybe use the 1/4 or 1/2 turn more method.

 

 

[fuel]

max ugga duggas on the rattle gun and she'll be right