Gav's 200sx RPS13 1JZGTE of race car.

[~Slideways~]

On 10/08/2022 at 17:20, kpr said:

 Was more meaning like in this picture rather than number 2.      not the scratches  but the textured look.      should be able to look up and compare to some pictures what it means. 
this is one of the mains i assume?    number 2 looks like something else again

 

Either way it looks like it was knocking right up until failure, the way the piston is so clean in damaged areas.   weather that was due to some previous damage. causing oil contamination in that cylinder.  or a fuel/ignition advance issue is the question

I'd do a roman  dave milk bottle injector test.    That will test the ecu, injectors, wiring at the same time.    give the loom a good jiggle around in the process, see if any injectors play up.
would work just as well / better than sending everything away to be tested

Any  chance we can get a screen cap of the ignition map?

 

 

 

Will get back soon with some photos of the ign map.

Have been looking at images of bearings for far too long now...

[~Slideways~]

On 10/08/2022 at 17:20, kpr said:

 

 

Any  chance we can get a screen cap of the ignition map?

 

 

 

Sorry kept forgetting to grab the old laptop with the last saved tune. This isn't directly off of the ECU but I don't think it will have changed from this.

 

Update on the engine is that it has been measured and it is just over tolerance so really should be over bored, can probably get away with stock size pistons but the best will be to go with oversized pistons. So 86.5mm

Am now trying to find a good price on some CP pistons, then will get the block machined based on those.

 

 

[kpr]

someone doesn't like the metric system.    but looks ballpark,  long as there aren't any other compensation or 4d maps adding to it. 

All the stuff from the states is super expensive atm, prices gone up and bad exchange rate.     Looked into any of the jap brands?   quite a bit cheaper getting stuff from japan if there's an option worth considering

[~Slideways~]

On 28/08/2022 at 14:30, kpr said:

someone doesn't like the metric system.    but looks ballpark,  long as there aren't any other compensation or 4d maps adding to it. 

All the stuff from the states is super expensive atm, prices gone up and bad exchange rate.     Looked into any of the jap brands?   quite a bit cheaper getting stuff from japan if there's an option worth considering

Haha yes I didn't notice to be honest.

I had checked the other settings and they aren't in use. 

Waiting on results for injector testing, needs fluid first. Not really sure what to expect.

 

In other news, I've just spent a large chunk on some CP pistons and head studs. Good to be a step closer to getting it back on the road.

Have been working on getting some other cars ready to sell (Celica and Lancer) so I feel a bit better about the cost...

 

[~Slideways~]

Sweet.

 

[~Slideways~]

Well 2 injectors tested 8% and 10% lower than the other 4. One of those was on the melted number 4, so that has to be the cause.

Spray pattern is good, but flowing less.

Still doesn't explain the low load misfire behaviour .

They are 3sgte 550cc injectors from a Caldina GTT, well two sets. Both used.

Weirdly, it was noted that the plastic housing is starting to crack on some of them where the coil is inside the injector. Whether this is the problem, I don't know, it's like they got hot. I think one set of injectors has had a hard life previously because the actual colouring of the plastic is faded.

I still have the Xspurt injectors but they didn't work well on this engine. The factory pintle cap with 4 holes divides the spray pattern properly and worked much better. So I think I will try get some brand new 3sgte ones, it is tempting to go for a different brand of aftermarket ones but they all seem to be decapped so will be like firehoses just like the Xspurts.

 

[kpr]

If it were  some kind of issue with the injector coil  like you suspect.  that could do all sorts of silly stuff with the dwell time.  so no, or next to no fuel could have been coming out on idle.

what was wrong with the xpurt injectors?   Thought about running unmodified bosch injectors?

[~Slideways~]

1 hour ago, kpr said:

If it were  some kind of issue with the injector coil  like you suspect.  that could do all sorts of silly stuff with the dwell time.  so no, or next to no fuel could have been coming out on idle.

what was wrong with the xpurt injectors?   Thought about running unmodified bosch injectors?

The Xspurt 1000's appeared to be spraying directly on the very wide port divider killing atomisation and causing it to blow black smoke in higher rev's on the dyno. The factory injectors (and these 3sgte ones) have a nice 4 hole cap which sprays it down the ports at the valves instead of the centre. Using the 3sgte ones made it run better everywhere.

Apparently the Xspurts work well on plenty of other engines though.

I've had thought about unmodified Bosch injectors since they'd avoid the problem of spray pattern, but it looks like I can get some new genuine 3sgte ones for a decent price which would go straight in and still support 300kw's.

[mjrstar]

4 hours ago, kpr said:

If it were  some kind of issue with the injector coil  like you suspect.  that could do all sorts of silly stuff with the dwell time.  so no, or next to no fuel could have been coming out on idle.

what was wrong with the xpurt injectors?   Thought about running unmodified bosch injectors?

Yeah injector coil resistance could well be further up the shit once a dose of engine bay radiant heat and possibly vibration is applied.. 

Flow testing in a rig could be a far less challenging set of conditions? 

[Roman]

Measure resistance across the pins of each injector?

EDIT: Reason this might be interesting is that if the wires in the coil have semi shorted or fused together, this can affect injector opening time.
As theres a weaker force pulling the injector needle thingy up off the seat. 

So even if they flow the same, they could take longer to open so run leaner in real life conditions.

I've heard of people saying that their injectors come back fucked after ultrasonic cleaning because it messes with the coil of wire inside and shorts the insulation (or whatever) 

[~Slideways~]

On 21/09/2022 at 14:08, Roman said:

Measure resistance across the pins of each injector?

EDIT: Reason this might be interesting is that if the wires in the coil have semi shorted or fused together, this can affect injector opening time.
As theres a weaker force pulling the injector needle thingy up off the seat. 

So even if they flow the same, they could take longer to open so run leaner in real life conditions.

I've heard of people saying that their injectors come back fucked after ultrasonic cleaning because it messes with the coil of wire inside and shorts the insulation (or whatever) 

I hadnt thought of checking reisistance, thanks for the idea. It'll be interesting to see if there is a difference but eitherway I won't be using the ones with the cracks. Will take a photo when I get them back.

I haven't yet bought new ones but think I will get them flow tested before using them.

 

In other news it was my birthday the other day and months ago I had ordered some genuine Type X rear lights. I'd put it off for years since they are pretty expensive. Bit better buying direct from Japan but the shipping was still pretty bad. 

They arrived a while ago but decided to keep them until my birthday to semi justify buying them to the wife lol.

Anyway, here's one in a box.

Feels kind of silly since the car has no engine in it now.

[~Slideways~]

Fitted lights:

Car is filthy:

Sooo much nicer:

 

Did it properly with this stuff:

 

 

Here is what the cracks in the st215 injectors look like:

 

No update on the engine, except that it should be getting over bored at some stage soon based on the piston specs.

Still a shame to hide these away, look at them!

 

Have to wire the lights in since they changed the plug type and even the wire gauge on the later 180sx.

 

[shrike]

Getting the Pistons ceramic/Teflon coated? are you going to get the bottom end balanced?

[~Slideways~]

16 hours ago, shrike said:

Getting the Pistons ceramic/Teflon coated? are you going to get the bottom end balanced?

I think ceramic coating would be overkill to be honest. The stock pistons could have handled it, if it weren't for fueling issues. 

As for balancing, undecided. Inline 6's are pretty much the perfect engine for balance anyway, except v12's...which is just 2 of them haha.

[piazzanoob]

12 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

I think ceramic coating would be overkill to be honest. The stock pistons could have handled it, if it weren't for fueling issues. 

As for balancing, undecided. Inline 6's are pretty much the perfect engine for balance anyway, except v12's...which is just 2 of them haha.

if the piston weights are different between what was in there and new ones. like a decent amount the motor will need balancing if not done can cause issues like engine vibrations and unwanted wear on components. plus the engine will be used hard too

its not much money in the scheme of what your spending in parts and what it will cost if you had to do it twice.

if your not sure on weights or getting it done get your motor machinist to check and tell you     

[kpr]

doesn't matter so much on inline 6 cylinder or 4 cylinder for that matter (unless oddball setup) .  long as crank itself is balanced, and all the pistons and rods are the same weight as each other.  which is easy enough to do yourself.

aftermarket pistons should be pretty much bang on.  but  worth weighing them anyway. along with the pin and ring set going on them.   mix and match pins/ pistons. zing a bit off pistons if needed

factory toyota rods, at least all the 4age one ive weighed can be a bit off. i would assume jz would be no different.  so probably worth doing more so than the pistons.  you can end weight them.  or at least make them weigh the same if cant be assed making a jig. 

[~Slideways~]

13 hours ago, kpr said:

doesn't matter so much on inline 6 cylinder or 4 cylinder for that matter (unless oddball setup) .  long as crank itself is balanced, and all the pistons and rods are the same weight as each other.  which is easy enough to do yourself.

aftermarket pistons should be pretty much bang on.  but  worth weighing them anyway. along with the pin and ring set going on them.   mix and match pins/ pistons. zing a bit off pistons if needed

factory toyota rods, at least all the 4age one ive weighed can be a bit off. i would assume jz would be no different.  so probably worth doing more so than the pistons.  you can end weight them.  or at least make them weigh the same if cant be assed making a jig. 

Yeah these CP pistons should be within 1 gram of each other, will look into rod weights since I am using stock ones.

 

[~Slideways~]

Found that the wiring for the brake lights on the original style brake lights are the same inside so used some from a damaged set.

 

Removed the plug from the preface lift type lights and soldered/shrink wrapped:

 

Yay, working type-x lights, the photo came out really dull/washed out but in real life they are a nice vibrant dark red:

 

Sacrificial brake lights, cracked and chipped etc, in the bin:

 

 

 

[~Slideways~]

The short block is back together, I didn't do it myself because I didn't want it to be my first diy rebuild and stuff it up. Those 1jz's are going for $10k these days?! Plus $2k worth of pistons etc etc.

I will save the diy build practice for the 4wd lancer thing.

I dropped off some ARP head studs, the head has been skimmed and need some work on the exhaust valve side plus getting new stem seals.

In the mean time I found that the HX35 had some play, not too bad but since it was on the bench I decided to get a rebuild kit.

The journal bearing on the exhaust side has taken a beating and the compressor side seems fine. I can feel the play with the exh side on on the shaft while the comp side seems ok.

It kind of looks like the exh end one got hot, I did find that the seals right next to it were a pretty tight fit, i.e. the ones already in there. When I replaced them I made sure they weren't as tight.

 

These little buggers are a pain, had to file down these to make them fit

 

New bearing in:

 

Polished shaft:

 

Back together, really had to fight the dinner plate sized c-clip that holds the comp cover on, that thing wants to decapitate you:

 

 

Next will be to take apart the VVti pulley since it is leaking. Toyota officially says don't rebuild it, but plenty of people have, and those people keep the exact o-ring type a secret so they can charge $20 for an o-ring and a million dollars postage. I will try the local place.

Made some timing markings with a scribe thing. 

[kpr]

Ive pulled one of those (vvti pulley) apart a million times.   pretty basic. but can put the together backwards hah.     only thing i suggest doing is sitting it on the cam and making sure it freely rotates through tis whole travel. there isn't really anything that locates them central,  if get them a little off can bind up at at one end of the travel.   I usually put it on the cam and rotate it back and forward nipping up the bolts.