danger Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Oi fags, how much does a megasquirt cost? Can someone relatively retarded like me build one? Need it to run a 6cyl fuel injected turbo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 You can buy them preassembled, some costs etc are listed here: https://www.diyautotune.com/ That would be the easiest Megasquirt related option for you, or if you assemble yourself it's obviously cheaper (by a fair bit!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I have eight fingers and two thumbs so in theory I have what it takes to assemble one providing they come with clear instructions with laymans terms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 instructions are online based. they are relatively clear, but essentially a 5ft tall wall of text. am at work now so cant hunt them out, but will post a link late this evening unless someone (likely) beats me to it. but if you can read, and know what left and right is and solder, then you shouldn't have any issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 heres the assembly manual for the megasquirt 1 v2.2 that i built. http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mass.htm you will probably find there will be a couple of 'modifications' you need to make in order to run your exact hardware setup, but these are usually well documented, especially if you go with a later model megasquirt. the specific assembly guide for whatever megasquirt you may purchase is pretty easy to find via googleing for it and it will link straight into the page you need 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I threw one together around 8 years back. I imagine everything has improved since then BUT I found the step by step instructions and process thoroughly enjoyable! Probably been mentioned many times but splash out on a GOOD digital soldering iron with replaceable tips - being able to set the temp properly is a wonderful thing. I had one issue only and that was that the stim unit came supplied with a 9v battery clip/lead which is useless.. Had a panic until proving it all worked on decent power supply. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 dont think the soldering iron thing has actually been mentioned, but yes i agree. i picked up a nice adjustable iron from jaycar for pretty cheap and it worked very well. well worth it. another think that had been mentioned i think, was to make sure certain components are siliconed down so they don't vibrate and fail. the occilator is one of these, and i also siliconed any flying leads to prevent failure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I wouldn't build one if it were me, after looking at the cost difference and my patience, just buying a complete one was way easier. Of course I didnt learn how they worked which would be awesome if you felt the need 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 I would imagine that would only really be easier if you have a stock car they offer a plug n play for. For 90% of the cars on this site (and people) I'd say a diy kit will be easier to customize to the engine and enjoyed during the build. That said, if there is a suitable plug n play and it's cheap then why not. Probably less trouble shooting at the other end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Just buy a microsquirt, you can easily configure it in tuner studio to do what you want, as if you choose the right components it will make your life easy. Then it is just wiring it up. Use gm temp sensors, hall effect crank trigger, ls coils, and a gm map sensor and your life will be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 Also get a microsquirt because it uses a propper connector not the stupid dp37 one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Does the engine use a distributor or not? if it doesnt the microsquirt will need a small mod to get an additional ignition output. but basically microsquirt is the goods unless you want an MS3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 The Microsquirt has less outputs and is a bit less flexible/customisable than a regular MS2 or MS3, they're really more for motorcycles or other installations where space is at a premium. From memory they're OK to run a 4 cyl but any more than that and you're going to be making some compromises in your design/control due to the lack of outputs. They're also more expensive than an MS2 IIRC. Don't hate the DB37, DSub connectors have been used in space - pretty sure they'll be fine on your car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 FYI: http://www.msextra.com/feature-xref.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Yea more deets on engine combo danger well tell you what's up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Don't hate the DB37, DSub connectors have been used in space - pretty sure they'll be fine on your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 The Microsquirt has less outputs and is a bit less flexible/customisable than a regular MS2 or MS3, they're really more for motorcycles or other installations where space is at a premium. From memory they're OK to run a 4 cyl but any more than that and you're going to be making some compromises in your design/control due to the lack of outputs. They're also more expensive than an MS2 IIRC. Don't hate the DB37, DSub connectors have been used in space - pretty sure they'll be fine on your car. theres not alot you have to compromise on, you just dont have the room to add extras as much. they will still do a 2 wire idle control, boost control, two step. assembled MS II without loom is >$100USD more expensive than an assembled microsquirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Damn, I swear they must've come down in price because I'm sure that you used to pay a premium for the small form factor. Diyautotune reckons the Microsquirt injector driver isn't up to running low-impedance injectors unless the engine is a twin, so that is probably the biggest disadvantage (for me at least, I have low-impedance injectors). Personally I'd still go for the MS2/3 for the additional flexibility if the only reason for choosing the Microsquirt is that you don't like the look DB37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Shit the features on the 3 are impressive! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Yeah they're really just as good as any commercial offering I reckon - just that if you pay some outfit to do you a Link they handle all the grunt work like configuring the damn thing to work with your engine's specific angle-sensor setup etc. Way back in the day I was quoted $4500 for NZEFI in Christchurch to do me a Link (G3, I think) for a 4A-GTE.. base price of the ECU was like 2k and the rest was all the extras required to actually make it work with the motor. Fine if you're a rich cunt I guess but as far as I could see there wasn't much the G3 offered that the MS2 couldn't do. Other sweet thing is you can buy the MS2, get it all working and then later on upgrade to an MS3 just by dropping the newer processor in. In fact I think you can even go from the MS1 -> MS3 by doing that.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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