BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 That's what I did, Gap is 0.5mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Go a 1mm gap that extra long tooth in between the missing teeth may just be how it was cranking at the time. Engine slowed on that tooth because it was too advanced perhaps. Alot of lights wont work at cranking speed I know mine wont. Some times you can put more dwell into when its cranking to get the light to work. Like 7ms but put it back when you get it running. Your offset it based on crank timing so itll be double what you measure for cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Does Ms have a dwell map? Eg dwell vs rpm vs map? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 Just cranking dwell and running dwell. I think there's the underlying issue of the igniter getting warm, any chance it just needs heatsinkng? Will make tjosethose adjustments and see what I can do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Some igniters use its own mounts as the earth. What type is it? Is is bolted down to the chassis nice and firm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 It's got an earth wire. The back of the igniter is Shiney metal, and on the imprezza it bolts to a flat peice of steel. On my car it mounts to two 10mm fingers, so less surface area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Normaly on some sort of heat sink but at cranking it shouldn't be working hard enough to cause that kind of heat. If it heats up with ignition on and no cranking the output should be the other way etc. Itll get warm when running but not scorch your hand hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 It gets warm at standstill on both options. However, considering the very basics of engine requirements, I have spark, fuel and compression, so all that can really be wrong is timing and / or triggering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Something not right. Either the ignitors not wired up right or the transistors that drive the spark output are in backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 I will double check the transistors and take photos of all the wiring and stuff. Bear with me a little. Crashed my bike yesterday so am significantly slower at getting around haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Sweet I know there's 2 different transistors they supply one ends with an a or something and its backwards than some of the instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 unrelated to the igniter situation, ive just realized i made a stupid mistake with regards to the hall sensor.  i made up the 12v pull up resister lead to go to the signal line, and have hooked that straight to the power of the sensor. so that's probably not helping at all!  i don't see any way id have damaged anything though would you agree?  i promise im not actually dim..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Pull up normally done on pcb think its remove d8 put a 1k resistor in and hook a lead on right side to somewhere. Sorry not very helpfull don't have my book handy. Itll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Oh really? A lot of wiring diagrams showed it in the sensor wiring, I'll atleast take the resistor out of the 12v supply but that won't actually have been doing anything either. Damn I wish I could find the smoking gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Quick search shows you're correct with the pull up being on the pcb, I assume the instructions I followed involved this but I will double check as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 It probably is as your getting trigger events. If tries to kick over but wont catch its too retarded if it sort of stalls and back fires its too advanced to get you in the ball park. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 finally hobbled out to the garage for 5 mins to try a diagnostic a guy at work suggested, while was to line up the spark plugs in firing order and earthed and watch the spark cycle to make sure its right.  it appears my spark 'b' is not operational, im not sure if it was just the cranking speed doing it but spark 'a' potentially was only doing 3 out of every 4 cycles but im not 100% certain on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 the more i think about it, the more i think that something is not wired correct for spark b and its is the cause of the igniter getting warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 yeah make certain you have the output you are using for spark B selected to that and not to idle control or fan switch/some other random thing. we blew up coils on my mates LS landcruiser like that having it selected to some always on type of output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Does the led for spark b flash when cranking? If it does ignitor for b probably wired incorrect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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