feavermj 16 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 Was just wondering if there were any pros of the 16V against the 20V. I'm currently running a red top small port and thinking of going to a blacktop 20V for the main reason I want ITBs. A little more grunt and revs would be nice also. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
77magnum13hundy 708 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 bill sherwood knows it all, google bill sherwood 4age page - 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivaspeed 20,261 Posted May 11, 2015 Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 If you only want ITBs, get a Techno Toy Tuning ITB manifold for a 16V. Blacktop 20v is a good engine, later design, more power - but 20 valves seem to have a great knack of running bearings. Not sure if its an operation/maintenance problem or just an inherent design problem. If you factor in all the costs of going to a blacktop 20V, you could do some cool stuff to your 16V. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
feavermj 16 Posted May 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2015 If I run ITBs on the 16v I will have to run an aftermarket Ecu and also find someone to tune it properly which could be a problem and dollars $$ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 6,326 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 16v with itb's will need aftermarket ecu yes. only drama with blacktop is firewall clearance in rwd, due to the dizzy and water line location. if you don't have room can be expensive making it fit, depending how you go about it. blacktop will make more power than a smallport+ itb's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegreatestben 2,500 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 run bearings aren't the engines fault. That's numpty lack of maintenance. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhyscar 757 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 ^^ exactly. There is no difference in the bottom ends. In my experience the 16v drives a lot nicer and the 20v is a lot more peaky but of course has more power. If your going itbs and aftermarket ecu on a 16v it will out perform a standard blacktop I'd say. If itbs can be done for the cost of buying a new 20v engine (which I'd have to add that there aren't many good ones out there anymore) then itbs on the 16v are the way to go.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kpr 6,326 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 just chucking some itb's on a smallport wont gain much power. will still be behind backtop power wise. throw cams and some port work at the 16v as well. then you will have a good engine 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
feavermj 16 Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 It's in a ke25 so will be thinking of running the samq water and ignition conversion kits. The motor I have goes strong and there isn't much wrong with it but came across the blacktop cheap and thought could be worth a shot without having to recert etc. I appreciate a fairly worked 16v but I think it will cost me more money to gain the power the blacktop will produce. How many hours and how much money would you expect to pay for someone to tune a 4age with aftermarket ecu?/link? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobbyBreeze 352 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Have you thought about carbs? R1 motorbike carbs and manifold will be cheaper than ITB + manifold + ecu and you can tune them yourself. Plus they sound rad. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shandangles 232 Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 would have to re cert, different head design.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AllTorque 40,991 Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 would have to re cert, different head design....they are both dohc and there probably isn't enough increase in power to require a cert. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roman 13,454 Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 If you're going by the letter of the law then an ECU swap requires a cert, so does the power increase. But in the real world... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jake. 367 Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 If you did it and your wof guy asks why your motor is now injected as opposed to carbed which is on the cert plate. just point at the itbs and tell him they are carbs and give him a chinky wink, maybe slip him a twenty 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pbaines 749 Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 a 4A-GE in my KE30 certless included a hefty wink wink 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matteybean 1,156 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 I'm going from 18r to 18rg in my corona hoping to get away without a cert .. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
feavermj 16 Posted May 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 I do my own wofs so just worried about plod, but most of them don't know shit. It just says 4age injected on cert plate 1600cc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegreatestben 2,500 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 I would give zero fucks in that case. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CorollaGT 259 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Run no plastic cover down the centre of the rocker cover and the only way to ID them is the 4A stamped on the block (unless the person looking at the car actually knows what a 4AGE is) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seedy Al 18,027 Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 I believe you can fiddle with the black top ecus without to much fucking around to run wasted spark igniters. That way you can get rid of the dissy cap on the dissy and run a blanking plate. Should clear firewall then. And you can modify the head to run a water outlet out the front pretty much where a factory blue top one comes out 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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