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4AGE 16V vs 20V


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Was just wondering if there were any pros of the 16V against the 20V.

I'm currently running a red top small port and thinking of going to a blacktop 20V for the main reason I want ITBs. A little more grunt and revs would be nice also.

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If you only want ITBs, get a Techno Toy Tuning ITB manifold for a 16V.

 

Blacktop 20v is a good engine, later design, more power - but 20 valves seem to have a great knack of running bearings.  Not sure if its an operation/maintenance problem or just an inherent design problem.

 

If you factor in all the costs of going to a blacktop 20V, you could do some cool stuff to your 16V.

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16v with itb's will need aftermarket ecu yes.    only drama with blacktop is firewall clearance in rwd, due to the dizzy and water line location.   if you don't have room can be expensive making it fit, depending how you go about it.

 

blacktop will make more power than a smallport+ itb's. 

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^^ exactly. There is no difference in the bottom ends.

In my experience the 16v drives a lot nicer and the 20v is a lot more peaky but of course has more power. If your going itbs and aftermarket ecu on a 16v it will out perform a standard blacktop I'd say.

If itbs can be done for the cost of buying a new 20v engine (which I'd have to add that there aren't many good ones out there anymore) then itbs on the 16v are the way to go..

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just chucking some itb's on a smallport wont gain much power.  will still be behind backtop power wise. 

 

throw  cams and some port work at the 16v as well. then you will have a good engine

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It's in a ke25 so will be thinking of running the samq water and ignition conversion kits. The motor I have goes strong and there isn't much wrong with it but came across the blacktop cheap and thought could be worth a shot without having to recert etc. I appreciate a fairly worked 16v but I think it will cost me more money to gain the power the blacktop will produce. How many hours and how much money would you expect to pay for someone to tune a 4age with aftermarket ecu?/link?

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If you did it and your wof guy asks why your motor is now injected as opposed to carbed which is on the cert plate. just point at the itbs and tell him they are carbs and give him a chinky wink, maybe slip him a twenty

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I believe you can fiddle with the black top ecus without to much fucking around to run wasted spark igniters. That way you can get rid of the dissy cap on the dissy and run a blanking plate. Should clear firewall then. And you can modify the head to run a water outlet out the front pretty much where a factory blue top one comes out

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