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This one's got me.. carb tech heads please


yetchh

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I had trouble with a rough engine a while back, couldn't pin it down until a downpour sent me inside but left the engine idling, came back and the spark plug was under water in its little hole and bubbling furiously, bloody thing had cracked between the ceramic and steel! replaced the lot and she came back to life, wish I kept that plug!

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Can a mod please change the title to "douche bag needs his fucken head read".. please

 

Gah.. think I need to go back to automotive mechanics 101..

 

 

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Thats one seriously burnt set of points.. there's something funny going on tho, set new condenser and points up, ran Fine but then after 40min of idling out all of a sudden went back to shit. Points way out of adjustment and I can only just get .016 gap..

 

Anyway, bled the clutch and of she went, clunky as always..

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Zephyr doesn't run a ballast resistor.. just put the coil that was in it when I got it.. have three coils, the standard one, a gt40 and a blaster.. all three have roughly the same primary resistance.. which is weird. Have been running the gt40 for the last 2 years. Like I said, had run faultlessly for the last couple of years up to the week after nats when it shit itself..

 

 

Just need to bite the bullet and get a bloody elec ignition..

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If you have 12v going to your coil it can give the points a hard time,  try a ballast resistor, there about $10 new,

 

those points look like the capacitor was doing nothing, are you sure the replacement wasn't fucked to? get a new one and make sure the MF rating is right.

 

replace gt40 coil with stock coil.

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Yeah, it happened to be in a box of parts I got with it as well as another set of points.. Just charged the battery on my multimeter and I'm getting 1.1ohms from the blaster, 1.6 from the original coil and 3.6 from the gt40.. seems the gt40 is the best for the job, not sure why the change of coil worked, maybe the extra omph was enough to get it going, just.

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Well,  put new points/condenser and still runs like a bag of shit.. think the condenser could have been off something else.. put the same setup I had for nats back in and had made no difference, tried all the coils, same thing. Points set right, timing right.... WTF! Ran good yesterday till it smashed the Points.. gonna have a beer and think for a while.

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check for an earth wire on the distributor plate should be one so it isnt earthing through the vacume advance slider thingees.

also have found if you dont clean brand new points with thinners or the like then they burn up as the have a preservative oil on them to stop rust

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I had points trouble 'cos I had a standard coil in the Dai, and it doesn't run a ballast resistor. Was running quite warm. Lots of spark, but chewing out the points. When I changed to the proper 12V coil (SU12, ), it all calmed down.

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Bosch-Ignition-Coil-SU12.aspx?pid=0580#Recommendations

 

At 14V instead of 9V you're getting ~50% more current through the coil (if the inductance saturates), and the uF of the condenser won't soak up all of the arcing on the points. Worse, because the spike voltage when the points break is Ek = 1/2 L i2, you may be getting 1.5x 1.5x the voltage appearing on the points. i.e. up to 225%, depending on the other factors.  My Dai makes 150-200V spike on the 12V coil primary (thus also at the points) with the proper 12V coil; hate to think what it was with the standard ballast type coil.

 

The higher resistance (3.6) on the GT40 coil suggests it'll better suit 12V no ballast R, but they have 3 variations of this coil, and they don't publish all the specs like R, L, ratio etc

 

BTW, if the ignition is on, and the points are closed (engine not turning), the GT40 coil will pass 12V / 3.6R = 3.3A, which sounds not too bad. This will go up when running as the alt bumps the volts to 13.8 - 14.5V charge V, but down because it'll only be connected part of the time, and the inductive property of the coil causes the current to take time to build up.

 

For interest, the "Blaster" will pass ~10A with the points closed and no rotation, so about 10A x 12V = about 120W into the coil, and all that 10A thru the points.

 

HTH

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Yeah I tried the blaster once, fried the points straight away haha.. the gt40 ran a set of points fine for about 2 years until whatever happened happened,  earth wires connected.. yesterday even tried the setup that ran on Saturday but nothing.. CBF stuffing round with it anymore so I'm gonna bite the bullet and upgrade to magnetic.. Was gonna do it a few years ago but it was good on points..

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