yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Ok, so you may have read in my build thread about the zephyr and how it ran faultless to nats and back but now isn't. Symptoms - running extremely rough flames out of carbs under light throttle/wont rev fouls plugs dies if hand over front carb but not rear if left for 5 or so minutes runs and revs fine then over about 20-30sec runs rough again mixture screws do nothing remedied - timing, was advanced by 7-10deg coil, old one failed cleaned out both carbs installed fuel filter both carbs getting gas yeah, so I'm a little stumped, the running good then rough one is what I can't figure out. The other is why the coil suddenly failed, maybe it took something else(condenser) out with it, was also thinking maybe a couple of sticky exh valves on 5 or 6, has much more suction from front carb. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 getting spark on the rear cylinders (fed by rear carb) when its runnning rough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 got a fucken good belt off no6 so I'm guessing so.. didn't seem to make diff when I pulled them tho 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 have you checked the compression? tuning up Multiple carburetor engines can be imposable if they are low on some cylinders. is what i have found. Spitting back through the carb and the mixture screws not doing anything can be lean or air leeks 7-10deg of advance is a shit load, that can cause the spitting back and hard starting Replace the condenser they wear out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Yeah carb flames=lean condition somewhere, what are failed condenser symptoms? Started easy but they don't like anymore than 8deg anyway, I'm surprised I didn't have issues last year with it. Haven't done a comp test yet, was next on my list.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Flames out carbs to me is a timing issue, especially the difficulty in revving, stuck advance weights or vacuum advance?Mixture screws not responding is most likely air leaks if they were fine before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Yeah, what I've been thinking, tho vac advance is more for economy and hasn't worked for a while anyway .. can't find any air leaks.. can a bad coil fuck a condenser and vice versa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Yeah carb flames=lean condition somewhere, what are failed condenser symptoms? Started easy but they don't like anymore than 8deg anyway, I'm surprised I didn't have issues last year with it. Haven't done a comp test yet, was next on my list.. failed condenser symptoms are back firing though carb, engine won't rev just pops and bangs, burnt points, runs like a bag of shit, it makes them hoe through petrol to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 can a bad coil fuck a condenser and vice versa? I would say no, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 failed condenser symptoms are back firing though carb, engine won't rev just pops and bangs, burnt points, runs like a bag of shit, it makes them hoe through petrol to. Sounds a shit load like it.. the dead coil seemed to be the start of it for me.. nothing else had changed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Check for cracked distributor cap. I've had similer issues with a Falcon I owned, it was firing into 2 cylinders at the same time If possible find a vacume gauge and use it, it can tell you way more than you expect. Like high idle vacume with a flickering needle would indercate a valve not sealing right etc. Bit of a dark art these days but if you know how to read them they are indespencible for diagnoseing issues. Dwell angle meters are real helpfull working out spark problems, again a forgoten tool. These 3 tools should be in every Old School mechanics tool kit. Vacume Gauge, Dwell meter and a Comprestion tester, used together you can work out whats going on in a carb and points engine. Fuel pressure gauge and a timing light should be in there to. Good luck and Happy New Year. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 As luck would have it, I found a new condenser and points in the cave.. Will whack 'em and go from there.. thanks for the replies gents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 waiting with anticipation I had an ms65 corwn that crapped out a condenser, only car I have ever delt with where this had happened Drove ok but at full throttle it popped and farted and did all sorts of weird shit. took a stab and got it right, learned a lot from that, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 I can't get mine past 2k, in my mind it has to be that as it happened so quick.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guypie Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 got a fucken good belt off no6 so I'm guessing so.. didn't seem to make diff when I pulled them tho Change the plugs, they do fail. probably not the cause of the problem entirely but another thing off the list. I had one that the spark was jumping the gap at the base of the insulator, spark getting to plug but not firing the cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 What is timing set at? Also check your firing order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Change the plugs, they do fail. probably not the cause of the problem entirely but another thing off the list. I had one that the spark was jumping the gap at the base of the insulator, spark getting to plug but not firing the cylinder. They'll prob just foul again, find the source then change them.. Timings at factory, firing orders right.. the more I think about it the more I'm convinced it's the condenser.. gonna change it tonigh, and points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 replace all the british parts with non-british parts? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Yeah... Sposed to be the one of the best engines Ford (global) ever built, barra 310t would slot in nicely but.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 yeah +1 points and condensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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