Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

[ajg193]

Anyone know much about Toyota/Hilux manual column shift arrangements?

Any tips for which part contributes most to the vagueness/sloppiness?

I replaced a couple of the grommets and made a new bushing to account for wear on one of the links, like the bits in the following image: (both grommets up by column replaced, the better of the old grommets was transferred to the worse of the lower grommets down by box)

It seems to have helped quite a bit, but there is still quite a lot of slop in the mechanism. How much is normal?

 

[Carsnz123]

@Beaver also check the voltage to your coil under cranking. Had it in the past with a valiant that was really hard to start. Only had 4V at Thebes coil. 

[Kiwibirdman]

8 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Anyone know much about Toyota/Hilux manual column shift arrangements?

Any tips for which part contributes most to the vagueness/sloppiness?

I replaced a couple of the grommets and made a new bushing to account for wear on one of the links, like the bits in the following image: (both grommets up by column replaced, the better of the old grommets was transferred to the worse of the lower grommets down by box)

It seems to have helped quite a bit, but there is still quite a lot of slop in the mechanism. How much is normal?

 

Not had anything to do with Toyotas but have played around with Holdens and Falcons. The challenge when they get old is everything is a bit worn and every little of play adds up. My advice is to go through everything and fix everything you can. it won't be perfect but can be better.

[ajg193]

The bellcrank to actuate the second arm had a lot of wear where it slides on the main control shaft. I put it in the lathe and turned the worn section down and made a brass sleeve to press on.

Also the mounting bolt at the pivot is a bit of a dumb design with the threaded portion running directly on the pivot race so there is heaps of slop. I put a layer of heat shrink on that section of thread and that took the slop out.

Shifter feels like magic now, gears are easy to find and slot right in with no vagueness

 

[ajg193]

No idea how long the brass will last in this situation, might need to make a steel sleeve in the future.

 

Bell crank is item 33535 in picture. Bolt 33536 rides directly in 33571, no idea why they didn't make a proper mating interface there.

Bit that was worn out slides in slot on part 33711

[Beaver]

Tips for keeping things still when torquing up crank pulley bolt on an engine that's insitu? Pulley goes on after cambelt, so could potentially jam another one of the pulleys (e.g.injector pump) and rely on cambelt to hold but not sure that's a great idea. Better to try jam flywheel via starter motor hole maybe? Access/cover plate on gbox is sandwiched between motor and gbox I'm pretty sure.

[datlow]

Petrol?, remove spark plug and feed some rope down?

or yeah remove starter 

park in gear (didn’t work with my old datsuns shit brakes)

[ajg193]

Can you leave car in gear?

[M.H.]

I just send mine in with the ugga dugga gun at 11

[Beaver]

Just now, datlow said:

Petrol?, remove spark plug and feed some rope down?

or yeah remove starter 

park in gear (didn’t work with my old datsuns shit brakes)

Disesal. Didn't think about in gear with handbrake, what a retard I am.

[datlow]

Trying to over engineer it ah

 

[tortron]

4 minutes ago, Beaver said:

Tips for keeping things still when torquing up crank pulley bolt on an engine that's insitu? Pulley goes on after cambelt, so could potentially jam another one of the pulleys (e.g.injector pump) and rely on cambelt to hold but not sure that's a great idea. Better to try jam flywheel via starter motor hole maybe? Access/cover plate on gbox is sandwiched between motor and gbox I'm pretty sure.

Remove starter. Insert this

[Bling]

I stepped on brake with the vehicle in 5th for a fellow OS'er, seemed to work a treat. If handbrake is enough, then you should be sorted for DIY, could chock wheels / tie it to a post, worse case.

[ajg193]

 

I don't even know if this guy is 100% bullshit or not, such a completely different field to traditional engineering

[tortron]

I have some annoying apprentice marks in my old drill press table

 

It needs a bit of a birthday (missing belt guard, bodged but functional motor mount and switch, no return spring, bend handle, no paint) so some divots in the table would stand out even more afterwards.

 

There's one or two that I might make a cast iron screw or plug and insert to fill, but the others are shallow enough that I think I could fill them with some JB weld mixed with cast iron filings.

Can anyone direct me to some photos of a cast iron drill table, mill table etc that has been filled with epoxy and filings? There's plenty of people recommending it online but no finished pics. I'd like it to have a pretty good blended finish.

Or if there's something better than that what do you recommend (is devcon steel putty or another better to the point that I should go buy some rather than use the JB weld on my bench)

If the epoxy doesn't blend nice I might drill the rest deeper and make more plugs

Not interested in brazing them up, don't particularly want to mig weld them, although I'd probably get away with it without ruining it.

 

[Bling]

What about lead solder? Not hard enough?

[tortron]

I don't think so, also it will stand out as silver against the table (same as silver rod)

[Carsnz123]

Wurth Liquid Metal is the tits for shit like that. Is a grey epoxy that sets rock solid and sticks like shit to a blanket as long as the metal is clean and its got somthing to key into. 

[tortron]

Harder than JB weld?

[SOHC]

My Volvo has the rear lights on permanently when the ignition is on but when the stop lamps come on they go out, sounds like a bad earth?