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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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Wasnt it an AI that wanted to nuke the russians?
And right before the missles launched they asked it to play noughts and crosses with just one player. where it learned that nobody would win, and it aborted the missle launch?

I feel like it's name was Jacob?

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7 hours ago, mjrstar said:

@HighLUX it was something like 3s crank seals, 4k Mains and big ends (there are 2 different sizes), 4k middle and oil rings, with Honda d16 top piston rings. The crank thrust washers were unique, I think I still have a set of two of them.. I might also have a couple of Honda rings because I must have used 1.5 sets to do the rebuild... From memory the head gasket also wasn't all that easy to procure.. valve shims are 16v 4age, as are the valve stem seals maybe from memory..

 

EDIT: Found this box dated 2003 and I have written 1G on it at some stage..

 

Can't help with replacement pistons though sorry. Well unless you need a complete runner 1ggte with a KP starlet attached supra 5 speed and shortened Hilux LSD etc..

20240105_122242_compress14.jpg

That starlet must be a farking handful! Bet it's fun though

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9 hours ago, HighLUX said:

Cheers. Had a young guy come from Auckland before and grab some 1G bits off me, namely a block as he had bought @BlownCoronas old Crown and it blew up on him at Hamilton after driving it home from Dunedin so hes trying to rebuild it at the moment. Il pass the info on

thats weird, last i heard he made it home to auckland fine but with some temp strangness but then at some point it did a headgasket and he had the original block sorted out and was putting it all back together. i helped him locate a head gasket ect. i wonder if it was for his other crown

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Has anyone got any tips identifying zinc vs aluminum castings? 

Apart from a specific gravity test (hard on complex parts) the only reliable thing I can think of is dilute copper sulfate should turn zinc black and not react with aluminum? 

My GT125 cases and head were clear/blue passivated, so need to get the process right incase some is aluminum. I suspect the barrels and the stator/points cover are aluminum, they're a lighter colour in person. 

Pic of glass bead fapped parts 

 

20240104_212336.jpg

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Everything there is aluminium. Colour differences are pressure die casting alloy mix vs gravity die casting. Nothing they left as cast would have been clear coated originally - normal Suzuki finish of the era was silver paint. Two pot epoxy silver is the common replacement now. Some pieces like the side covers would have been polished then clear coated.  A look at brochures or road test pics on line will tell you what to polish.

Edit - the best paint to use I'm told is Durapox. I've seen several sets of cases done in it and it's a good finish.

Zinc based I've only ever found used on components in contact with fuel. Some carb bodies and float chambers and the occasional tap.

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6 minutes ago, GregT said:

Everything there is aluminium. Colour differences are pressure die casting alloy mix vs gravity die casting. Nothing they left as cast would have been clear coated originally - normal Suzuki finish of the era was silver paint. Two pot epoxy silver is the common replacement now. Some pieces like the side covers would have been polished then clear coated.  A look at brochures or road test pics on line will tell you what to polish.

Zinc based I've only ever found used on components in contact with fuel. Some carb bodies and float chambers and the occasional tap.

I thought so too, until I went to blast the cases and they appear to be clear/blue passivate, as was the cylinder head. I'll snap a pic inside casings to show. Barrels and most covers appear to be painted or polished aluminum. My later GT motors are all painted though. The other possibility is Zamac or whatever that classic zinc alloy was 

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I'm still convinced the cases are aluminium as I've never seen anything else used by Suzuki.  I suspect you're seeing a stain rather than a factory finish. I know that Laverdas have a problem repeating the OE finish on castings as as they were chromate treated - with a now illegal NATO chromate. Which is a unique colour...

I'd try painting the lower case and see how it comes out. Painted silver is as close to OE finish as you're going to get.

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It wasn't painted, unless it's a tinted clear that replicates passivation. But it did not blast off like paint does on the engine casings

They could be aluminum, and that's fine, it just changes the process to replicate the OEM surface finish. 

 

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Zinc blends are used because its more free flowing when casting. Ie, you can cast in more detail, and save on maching costs. 

The more garbage metal in the pot, the more free flowing it is. (Like carburetors for instance)

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So i rushed to farmlands and got some cipper sulfate because i lost my other bag.

Did a control test on some zinc fasteners, scotchbrite then dilute copper sulfate, instant black.

Gave each part a sneaky scotchbrite. Zero reaction essentially. GregT wins the cookie. Happy i confirmed it with a science though.

So I guess I'm looking at conversion coatings for aluminum now. Can't say I've ever seen a paint finish that will replicate it

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Even on polished sidecovers the clear changes colour over time - and with heat.

If, as is possible, the raw castings out of the dies were clear coated, and it's oxidised to the colour you see now, I don't see a way of getting the casting surface back to original. Possibly a chemical soak might do it. Any abrasive - even walnut shells or plastic media - will leave a texture rather than a dead smooth surface.

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