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help with vac advance, fuel economy, EGT and all things related to distributors on modified, low vacuum engines


BlownCorona

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As the title may suggest im after some help with my distributor and vacuum advance related stuff. 

 

my situation is,

 

toyota 18r 2000cc mild can regrind, bike carbs, raised compression and extractors. 

 

the engine ran well, however when i drove it 3km up the road cruising at 100, it seemed to drive fine. but when i got back i checked the engine (as i have after every drive while i tune and run this engine in) and this time it was night, i noticed the extractors glowing red hot at the collector (4-1) but not on the actual headers. 

 

now ive done a fair bit of reading up on this, and came to a possible conclusion that it was timing related, and possibly vac advance related. since i dont have any vacuum what so ever when cruising at 100 (about 3500 rpm) it also felt a bit weird. 

 

today i disconnected the vac advance hose, and the engine runs amazing, it delivers the power very smoothly and feels like its making more power, though it was wet and wheel spinning all over the place. 

 

now its my understanding, with all the stuff ive read, that at idle and other low throttle open situations, the mixture is overly lean, and produces a slower burn, and thats when vac advance is supposed to kick in and dial in ~20 more degrees so the max cyl pressure is still achieved just after TDC. but my engine makes no vac at 100kmh cruise and wont be dialing in extra advance, and this is probably causing the high egt, and slightly weird running. though i dont know what will happen with extended 100kmh cruise with vac advance disconnected (in theory it will still run hot etc? yeah)

 

now to my questions

 

how do i remedy this

and

is fuel economy as greatly impacted by vac advance as the internet makes out, as id really like to be able to drive this often and not worry too much about it drinking fuel on the open road

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I would just ignore the vac advance as I said earlier. Set initial advance as per spec (10 degrees at idle or whatever) and let the mech advance take care of the rest.

 

Spencer will tell you vac advance is just for increased economy. Aint nobody got time for that.

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Yea if you are pulling no vacuum at cruise then vacuum advance is a waste for time for you. As others have said set the base timing at 10ish, mark up your pulley with degree markings, then when you rev it take note of when the timing is all in and how high it goes and work from there.

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Testament - am I correct in thinking that if I adjust initial advance, added to mechanical advance, so that it totals the amount of advance it would have had, had back adv been working, I'll be safe?

And the car starts very easy so I should be all good on that front

 

 

Yea if you are pulling no vacuum at cruise then vacuum advance is a waste for time for you. As others have said set the base timing at 10ish, mark up your pulley with degree markings, then when you rev it take note of when the timing is all in and how high it goes and work from there.

 

 

As Above but for clarity

 

  • If you can, check Crank and block markings for TDC to ensure they are correct by using engine stop and pointer method (google how to do this)
  • Disconnect and block off any vacuum advance
  • Set advance at idle to 10deg BTDC, or whatever the factory setting is. you can adjust a couple of degrees more or less to get it to idle better if it doesn't want to idle at that advance but 8 is probably too much (or your makrings on the crank are wrong, so go back to step 1).
  • with engine in neutral rev engine to a higher RPM (and hold it steady at that rpm) than the "all in" advance rpm for the mechanical advance weights and note the amount of advance
  • adjust timing such that the "all in" advance is correct per  the manual/whatever max advance is correct for your engine setup
  • Rev engine again to check you have got it on the money
  • reconnect vacuum advance
  • Doaskid
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