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injected boosted kent xflow


427carguy

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When i was running the s14.  had no choice but to run throttle after charger. (itb's)    used the factory stepper motor bypass that some sc14's have.  think it was about 35mm.   made a tps vs rpm map in the link to control it.   along with the supercharger clutch. could program it to boost how ever you liked.  

 

or could just use a bov for a bypass.

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Anyone know for sure what the differences are between KA engine and 1600 crossflow is?

More modern engine may flow better and already have injection gear and head?

Shaneo picked up KA engine to check, but went and bought a tiger to hang onto its tail so the KA won't be looked at for a while.

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Put the TB before the blower. Other wise you gotta vent your boost out to atmosphere. I wouldn't bother fucking around with ITB's either. 

TOYOTA had their TB before the pump.

Rock your shit like poddie, TB, Blower, intercooler, plenium/runners, engine.

Then when you open the throttle, it'll suck some air, make some boost, and make power.

 

I stand by my 1st statement. Get your new enigne built, and then consider injection.

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  • 2 months later...

Put the TB before the blower. Other wise you gotta vent your boost out to atmosphere. I wouldn't bother fucking around with ITB's either. 

TOYOTA had their TB before the pump.

Rock your shit like poddie, TB, Blower, intercooler, plenium/runners, engine.

Then when you open the throttle, it'll suck some air, make some boost, and make power.

 

I stand by my 1st statement. Get your new enigne built, and then consider injection.

 

So after killing another engine I have bought a setup off a silver top 4age to fit to the side of my warm xflow I'm rebuilding. Now after spending a few hours reading I wonder??? I have a KA engine here but I cant see anything on it but loads of cost and work to fit anything. Does the dizzy work from the KA to old school? as I need a crank angle sensor. Or do I buy a brand new dizzy from the UK?

 

And was thinking link system to run it But a super charger as well now that would bring it to life 

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I only just spotted this thread. I was chatting to you about injection as you were having such a hard time getting the carb right.

I went into injection knowing pretty much bugger all- just the basics on how it works. It's been a steep learning curve but thoroughly enjoyable! I reckon you should look into megasquirt. It's cheap and in building it (just follow the instructions) you will learn heaps and get a good feel for how it all works inside and so loose the feeling that it's all black magic. You'll be dead proud when it's all done! it's so easily tunable and upgradable too.

I'm sure peeps down your way could help you piece something together out of an old carb body for your manifold.

Anyway- see this thread here for more info...

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34850-diy-fuel-injection-thread/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Binjection+%2Bthread

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Yes but just the insert 35 years old brand new will be better. have a mates brand new one in there just lately so smooth . There are so many types up for sale now 

 

If I was you I would just use the dizzy as a trigger and use a single coil with the dizzy. Lock/remove the mechanical advance and get a set of fucked webers to use as throttle bodies, would make for a super sweet period looking setup.

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When I rebuild my motor, I will also look at injecting it. I already have a manifold for blacktop throttle bodies and I would consider getting a steel crank pulley with teeth on it for timing, I think they are around $150. Only problem with that is that I dont like the trigger locations that people put them in currently as it looks too exposed which brings you back to using a dizzy as a trigger which I dont really like either. When the time comes ill look into it further anyway

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a friend of mine had a twin cam galant cam angle sensor setup on top of the standard dizzy location on his supercharged  2 litre pinto. It looked rather tidy and would be a simple trigger pattern to work with. I use this same / similar CAS on my mazda project and they are easily available from a 2 litre RVR / galant and possibly libero at pick-a part..

 

Lathe off top of busted /spare dizzy, weld on mounting plate for fiting CAS, make a suitable join for the standard / slightly shortened dizzy shaft?

 

sorry if this has already beed covered/discussed

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I have done this for my a15 that will never be finished^

 

Evo 3 CAS mounted onto a cut down a15 dizzy and drive shaft thingy.

 

dyenGpA.jpg

 

 

All the stuff Ive read says that crank angle is a heaps more reliable trigger than cam angle but this will work sweet, was super easy and means I dont have to mount a VR sensor to the front of my engine.

 

 

 

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If you have the patience you can just make your own trigger wheel with a file and a vice - it doesn't actually take as long as you think.  With a cup of coffee and good music its quite nice chilled thing to do.

 

Then with an abs sensor from a wreakers and coil pack you're sorted.

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