Rookie Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I'm looking at building a new garage and I want a hoist, so hit me with do's and don't of building with a hoist in mind. I am talking about things like frame height, clear space overhead, truss design, slab thickness and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Like a two post hoist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S I C Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 100mm minimum thickness for the base. That's the end of my usefulness until ours is in next month, then I'll bring some more input to the thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Would presume two post? Four posts are not that useful if you actually need to work on stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Well, obviously you need to make sure you have enough clear height to allow the lift to work. Measure a typical car height, and add that to the proposed lift height. My shed is 3.3m at the front, sloping down to 3m at the back and is only just high enough - I can't run the lift to full height with a normal car on it - OK with convertibles though. I agree that a 2-post if the best choice for working on regular cars. I have a 4-post because it was available used at the right price, and it is way better than no lift, and good for project building. I have it anchored into the standard 100mm reinforced floor. Vertical loading only with a 4-post though. Three phase power may be needed, depending on what you buy. It's useful for lathes and stuff anyway. There are heaps of discussion on t'web about lift installs. Try garagejournal.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 dont know if there are any rules around hoist use, i bought one and will put in once council have signed my shed off lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 and yeah 3 phase be faster and easier to come buy, apaprently the single phase ones are slow as.. You need a fair bit of room say if you want to chuck a 4x4 on. I have 4.2m knee which will be more than ample but was just the shed i ended up with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 Yea it will be a 2 poster on single phase, I don't really care if it is going to take a minute to get up to height, as it will still beat the shit out of rolling around in puddles. I have read a bunch of American threads on the subject, but I am after NZ experiences as I don't own a 10,000lb Escalade/Ram, so no need for a 4.5m stud. I was thinking about having a single plane roof with the low side at ~3.2 or so up to about 4m on the high side, and having a mezzanine on the bay that doesn't have the hoist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 There's only one rule - your slab needs to be this thick before you can start: 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 NaN 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WLDRX2 Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 That is the best fucken idea ever. why didn't I think of this ?!!! I just wired up my mates new workshop, and that would have been awesome. Way better than the 2 fluros he cable tied to a sack barrow . Damn it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 youve probibly thought of it, and it would be a load of extra work, can you have a slight dip in the middle-outboard to get more arm swing clearance without having to push broken cars up on phonebooks? (on mine atleast/never used others) the arms are tapered thicker at the posts, you could get under a 50mm low car and maintain a flat drive on/off, i think youd have to recess the post also, by default anything under ~120ish is a pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted August 26, 2013 Author Share Posted August 26, 2013 How high is the stud where you have yours Dave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 unsure/unsuitably low, will check tomorrow out of curiosity, i wonder if you could have quite a big recess in the "middle" for the arms and use planks of some sort to bridge the ends for a flat approach when loading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 $1200 US ex China, not the best option for some things but definitely better if you have a small space, low car and run a Toyota that only ever needs oil changes and tyres Control box on the left has hydraulic power pack in it, you need to run lines in pipes under concrete. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 NaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 thats fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 NaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 hmm kinda ken on them scissor lifts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Yuck. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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