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Garages with Hoists...


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I'm looking at building a new garage and I want a hoist, so hit me with do's and don't of building with a hoist in mind.

 

I am talking about things like frame height, clear space overhead, truss design, slab thickness and the like.

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Well, obviously you need to make sure you have enough clear height to allow the lift to work. Measure a typical car height, and add that to the proposed lift height.

 

My shed is 3.3m at the front, sloping down to 3m at the back and is only just high enough - I can't run the lift to full height with a normal car on it - OK with convertibles though.

 

I agree that a 2-post if the best choice for working on regular cars. I have a 4-post because it was available used at the right price, and it is way better than no lift, and good for project building.

 

I have it anchored into the standard 100mm reinforced floor. Vertical loading only with a 4-post though.

 

Three phase power may be needed, depending on what you buy. It's useful for lathes and stuff anyway.

 

There are heaps of discussion on t'web about lift installs. Try garagejournal.com.

 

build1.jpg

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and yeah 3 phase be faster and easier to come buy, apaprently the single phase ones are slow as..

You need a fair bit of room say if you want to chuck a 4x4 on. I have 4.2m knee which will be more than ample but was just the shed i ended up with

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Yea it will be a 2 poster on single phase, I don't really care if it is going to take a minute to get up to height, as it will still beat the shit out of rolling around in puddles.

 

I have read a bunch of American threads on the subject, but I am after NZ experiences as I don't own a 10,000lb Escalade/Ram, so no need for a 4.5m stud.

 

I was thinking about having a single plane roof with the low side at ~3.2 or so up to about 4m on the high side, and having a mezzanine on the bay that doesn't have the hoist.

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youve probibly thought of it, and it would be a load of extra work,

can you have a slight dip in the middle-outboard to get more arm swing clearance without having to push broken cars up on phonebooks?

(on mine atleast/never used others) the arms are tapered thicker at the posts, you could get under a 50mm low car and maintain a flat drive on/off, i think youd have to recess the post also, by default anything under ~120ish is a pain

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$1200 US ex China, not the best option for some things but definitely better if you have a small space, low car and run a Toyota that only ever needs oil changes and tyres :P

Control box on the left has hydraulic power pack in it, you need to run lines in pipes under concrete.

LiftFlat.jpg

 

Liftfullheightside-1.jpg

Mustangonlift.jpg

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