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DIY Fuel injection thread.


yoeddynz

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37 minutes ago, Firetruck said:

Just as suitable as any as long as you can make a manifold for them. 

With the injectors builtin, i'm hoping the stars align and the manifold can be as easy as an adapter plate.. otherwise no big hassle

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19 hours ago, NickJ said:

Plenty of threads around for 4age itbs, but are GTiR itbs suitable/useable for efi conversions? have a set on offer but can't seem to find much on google today

10-5 just put GTIR ITBs on his SR20, every case is individual, depends on the injector mounting situation. GTIR are similar to RB26DETT in the way they're paired rather than completely individual like 4age...

Open to critic...

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Also, what plug gap you running? The smaller the gap, the longer the arc lasts (I seem to recall). May be more of an issue at lean? Those first plugs looked like 1.2 - 1.4mm as supplied? Anton's plugs looked like he'd nipped them up a smidge. I run ~0.7 - 0.9ish on the Dai (non ballast system) from memory.

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On 10/29/2017 at 14:01, japawagons said:

10-5 just put GTIR ITBs on his SR20, every case is individual, depends on the injector mounting situation. GTIR are similar to RB26DETT in the way they're paired rather than completely individual like 4age...

Open to critic...

Surely putting SR20 ITBs onto an SR20 is not the most challenging conversion though :P

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VSS signals? any pro or con to having more or less pulses per rev? the hubs I have for the drag car have abs tone rings I could use as is, or I could cut them down to a smaller number of teeth if I had to. planning to use something there plus some sensor picking up the bolts on the diff head flange or something like that to enable speed based power management/launch control/traction control.

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Depends on ECU or whatever you're using, with Link you can only go to a max of 500hz on digital inputs, so usually ABS rings need to be cut down to every 2nd tooth or whatever. I've heard people having 4 points per rotation and working well enough.

I've also seen reccomened that for something like wheel speed sensors for launch control where wheel speed is low, you'll want to avoid using reluctors as the output voltage can be too low at low wheel speed.

Also need to keep in mind that some traction control strategies compare driven wheel speed to non driven wheel speed, which doesnt work if your front wheels are in the air which will hopefully be the case :D

You can get a CAN based 20hz GPS unit that can input speed into ECU designed for motorsports applications, GPS speed might be a good way to view speed when front/rear wheel speed ratio becomes unreliable (due to tyre expansion, front wheels off the ground, wheel spin, etc) plus would be a good thing to have in datalogs regardless.

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On 10/30/2017 at 18:24, Roman said:

Surely putting SR20 ITBs onto an SR20 is not the most challenging conversion though :P

Haha  touche, surprisingly putting Turbo ITBs onto the NA engine wasn't as straight forward as I expected... Still wasn't particularly challenging....

 

Also your such a pessimist Roman, it's not that a 4AGE has died when someone else steals it's throttle bodies, it could have been turbocharged. It could also have become a coffee table. 4AGE's were such a good engine, Formula 1 stole their oil as fuel design and has been using it in their most recent power unit technology. (This may have also been credited to Mitsubishi, they are awfully secretive that bunch)

 

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Got the speeduino running over the weekend, set up for a test run on the bench and found the 5V regulator was shorting out somewhere, very frustrating but I have had a look over the circuit and have an idea in my head for trouble shooting, money down its something simple! 

Got home from work and found these abandoned on the front step including a little bag with fuel rail, tps and assorted other goodies.

IMG_5645.jpg.7a9d5b99a4710f4efda90fef679c6b9f.jpg

Lined up an inlet gasket and its not perfect, but not terrible either

IMG_5647.jpg.f40de30c6a072a83608785fbabcff371.jpg

Will draw up some profiles in the coming weeks and see if I can form an adapter for the waterjet to eat up, not so motivated to weld a manifold just yet!

I'm also assuming the standard injectors will be overkill, so need to research options there along with sensors and location.

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heres a question. i havnt been able to find a clear answer/exact scenario i have online so far. 

so when my car/megasquirt is switched off i noticed a while back that my injector resistor pack was getting warm. but today ive realised that that was a side effect of the injectors being held open when the megasquirt was unpowered but pluged in. 

i discovered they were locked open today when i was going about wiring the fuel pump into the ecu instead of the hotwire it had been on. and it proptly filled the cylinders/ports. que about 1.5 hours of me clearing the bores of fuel with a small fuel pump and a lenght of hose! 

does any clued up person know what ive done/broken to cause this to happen. i had noticed on some previous starts that it was very flooded and took a while to clean up and run on all four, and put this down to needing to tune the cranking fuel better as ive not even looked at it. 

 

and on a side note, i should be changing the oil now yeah? ive not started it since filling the bores.

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