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DIY Fuel injection thread.


yoeddynz

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Bosch make em. I have a simmiler setup but its a small mike in a cable lug. Use laptop as amp and a program called audicity to play though to headphones.

As for the mazda sensor itll connect to either the factory ecu this will have its convertor thing in it or a knock unit thatll proces it then output to factory ecu.

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2 wire will be better.  as can isolate from ground.   i run my amp of a 9v battery, as got alternator noise when powering off the car.   best explanation ive heard re what knock sounds like, is someone flicking a sheet of tinfoil warped over top of a jam jar.  some cars with noisy valvetrain can make it harder to hear, but  usually comes over louder than everything else.    when getting on the very edge of knock usually only here 1 or 2 ticks over the whole rev range.  most likely to happen at max torque.    when checking for knock engine needs to have as much as possible load on it.   1st and 2nd gear may not knock but higher gears will.  loading engine up with the brakes works well, if you are doing it on the road and like your license

 

 

0261231110.jpg

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There are narrowband and wideband knock sensors.

Most factory knock sensors are filtered to just hear the frequency of knock for that type of engine.

But GM knock sensors pick up everything and then filter with software in ecu.

So factory knock sensor is fine so long as you havent changed the bore or stroke.

Theyarent 0-5v but output a higher voltage higher knock vibrations get. Think they output about 1 volt or 2 volts max?

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Yeah I've heard of using det cans and earmuffs. Not so tidy... but effective yeah?

I'll double check the knock sensors. It might be that they have two wires.

In other news I bought and fitted a new wideband sensor and all is happy again. I have pretty numbers to watch.

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Ahhh so back to the VVTI thing.

 

I wired up the MAF Sensor so I could log its output voltage to help tune cam angles.

 

Then did a run at 12 degrees VVTI (minimum) then 20 degrees, 30 degrees, 40 degrees.

 

If the MAF sensor voltage goes UP at a given rpm it's stuffing more air in so that's probably the best setting.

 

Turned out a little bit different to the basemap, maybe because of my extractors/head being a little different at a guess.

 

Plotted a graph, because graphs are awesome:

 

cwpvy1sl.rce.jpg
 

 

So full 40 degrees advance from 3000rpm, backing it off to 20 degrees, then back down to 12 degrees by 6000rpm onwards.

 

Interesting to see that the 'VVTI still on' curve kinda matches the engine's MAF curve on the standard ECU.

 

But fully retarded cam position is still ingesting the maximum amount of air right to 8000rpm.

The MAP sensor shows that the KPA values drop a few below 100 from 6,000rpm onwards so if I freed up the intake a bit ahead of the throttle body it looks like it would doort pretty awesomely to 8000rpm or more. :)

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A novice question here as a mate was talking about sticking one of those electric blowers onto his Mitsubishi Lancer (1.4L standard thingy) for fun and I suggested he should check it out before he goes ahead and does it.

Question being: does the EFI automatically adjust for different air input pressure such as a few pounds boost or does the mapping cater for a generally fixed environment with some slight adjustments for cold/hot/knocking etc. expecting that it would probably lean it out far too much?

Cheers

K.

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