Roman Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Okay, basically the issue I've got is that my radiator is JUST on the verge of not being adequate for track days. After 6-7 laps of Taupo, the temperature starts to creep up slightly... then if I back off for say, 1/2 a lap or a lap, I can go for another 6-7 laps without issue. I've admittedly got a tiny radiator, with only a small coolant volume. Although I realise that moving to a larger radiator is an obvious solution, there are packaging issues which make this difficult, hence small one in the first place. So I've been thinking that a possible solution, (given that this issue only arises at trackdays, and it wouldnt be a constant hassle) could be to run an intercooler sprayer type setup onto the radiator to increase its efficiency, that perhaps switches on at a certain temperature. Is this likely to do acheive meaningful, seeing as how you're using water, onto air, to cool hot water? If it works for an intercooler, should work for a radiator too? Other possible solutions: -Slightly wider radiator for better cooling and more volume. would need to be custom made and therefore $$$ -fit air cooled oil cooler, less work for the factory oil cooler, than runs from the coolant system - already have remote filter kit and lines for this. -Upgrade my heater core to something grunty, turn on while on the track and enjoy the tropical in car climate -water wetter stuff? Does this work? Any thoughts? I think I could rig up a second windscreen washer bottle with a power source easy enough, and try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Water wetter works well, have used it in a few of my cars. Would be the first thing I'd try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I don't really like the idea of spraying a hot radiator with cold water, considering the possibility that it could crack from the thermal shock created. An intercooler sits at a more moderate and stablised temperature, usually you can touch them, so the thermal shock in that case isn't as much when sprayed. How wide can you go with the radiator? I just received an SW20 one and it fits perfectly between the "chassis rails" of my car and is nice and low, meaning I should be able to draw cool intake air from above it. I actually think it's the perfect solution in my case, but obviously not if it doesn't fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Ducting? Can you improve the in/out airflow in such a way to prevent air wanting to escape around the sides/top/botom of the radiator? The oil cooler sounds like a good option although it may not make a huuggee difference to coolant temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Mikuni, my thoughts were that if the water spray was a fine mist, it would be drawing heat away but without the massive thermal shock like it would be if you ran a hose on it. Currently the front of my car behind the grill etc looks like this: The cut out to the top left is where the engine air intake comes out, so two main places that the air can go are to there, and through the radiator. Still a few gaps I could probably try seal up though. I think I'll try the water wetter first, as it's the cheapest and easiest possible solution... And it will be beneficial to have it, even if other modifications are required also. I've already got everything required to run an oil cooler as well, and I could mount it in the spare space underneat the air intake in the blanking panel... Could just blank it off for when not at trackdays, so I'm not overcooling the oil during normal driving etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 So why cant you run a wider radiator? It looks quite skinny there Your link in your sig is sending me to the wrong place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 If radiator temp gets up around 100, the water you spray on the radiator will vapourise to steam - depending on how much is being sprayed this may affect your vision? *thinking aloud* I am not sure how much effective evaporative cooling is at ~100 degrees, I guess it like any evaporative cooling it depends on the temp of the spray water and how much energy it absorbs as it increases temp then changes state from liquid to vapour, it just seems (in my head at least) if you are spraying a mist that will be turned to steam with little effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 If radiator temp gets up around 100, the water you spray on the radiator will vapourise to steam - Yep that's the ideal scenario I think? The heat energy used to turn the water into steam is removed from the radiator/hot air, and then passed out the back as a gas rather than droplets etc. Although any form of spraying water on to an 80s Toyota is probably asking for rust problems depending on how much is being sprayed this may affect your vision? Nah it go out under the car, not over the top. I'd imagine it would only be practical to have a reasonably small amount of water being sprayed. *thinking aloud* I am not sure how much effective evaporative cooling is at ~100 degrees, I guess it like any evaporative cooling it depends on the temp of the spray water and how much energy it absorbs as it increases temp then changes state from liquid to vapour, it just seems (in my head at least) if you are spraying a mist that will be turned to steam with little effort. The colder the water is to start with, the more heat energy is sapped from the radiator etc when it turns into steam? So why cant you run a wider radiator? It looks quite skinny thereYour link in your sig is sending me to the wrong place I can run a slightly wider radiator, but it would need to be custom made therefore $$$, and the only place it's required is on the track as I'd never see continuous WOT for several minutes while driving on the street. So looking for alternatives. Woops, will get the link fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Why cant you modify another factory radiator to suite? I ran a 4 Core RX3 radiator in my crown with only mods to one bottom bracket. Id go check out Pheonix radiators in east tamaki, take a tape measure and just look through there stock. They are really good dudes, will do you a mean deal. Ask for either Kaine or Jess. Kaine owns a ST141 3sge converted corona, so if you get yarning with him he will sort u out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toyabusa Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Is the cooling system clean and working as well as it can at the moment? Have you flushed it out etc? Maybe could try a lower opening thermostat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Rebuilt motor and brand new radiator, so no probs there. Not sure what thermostat options there are. Cheers Nic might give them a buzz at some stage if I go down that route. Only thing is that it needs to be narrow enough so I can still fit my intake out the front, so most radiators are too wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Id go straight onto ebay and grab an aluminum honda or similar radiator thats similar in size but thicker. There is a huge selection of these and they are cheap!!!. I got a mk4 supra one off ebay for my truck and it was very nicely made... And hooooge. Anything custom made or even made in nz is silly dollars. Wuldnt piss around with spraying water on it. Sounds like a pain in the ass... If you do g this route however look on autospeed.com.au and search for diy ic sprayer, or similar. Lots of info there on sprayers, pumps and cheap pump controllers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Honda Civic radiator is the first thing that comes to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I don't like the idea of the sprayer as it's just another thing to go wrong. try the water wetter, do the oil cooler, see if you can heat sheild/heat wrap your exhaust more maybe. you could spave the rear of the bonnet up to let more air out - as you already have ok blanking to stop air bypassing the radiator or vents in the bonnet to let it out (but I doubt you are keen on that) I mean its not imeddiately so it sounds like you are right on the verge of it being enough. all that said the best option ultimately is a slightly bigger radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 spacers on back of bonnet are a bit of a myth think rear facing hood scoops on a muscle car : is a high pressure area from above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 I don't like the idea of the sprayer as it's just another thing to go wrong. Yeah that's a good point, I have had 'simplicity where possible' as criteria for things so far. try the water wetter, do the oil cooler, see if you can heat sheild/heat wrap your exhaust more maybe. you could spave the rear of the bonnet up to let more air out - as you already have ok blanking to stop air bypassing the radiator or vents in the bonnet to let it out (but I doubt you are keen on that) Yeah, I've done the opposite... I've specifically put a rubber seal at the rear of the bonnet line to stop air from coming back IN while travelling at speed, and building pressure in engine bay behind the radiator. all that said the best option ultimately is a slightly bigger radiator. Hmm this is true, if it was incapable of cooling the car in every day situations instead of just the track, I'd be almost immediately looking at this option. But since it's just the track where it's the issue, I'm more inclined to see if I can come up with an easier/cheaper way to sort it. If I had to refill a water spray tank after every stint its no big deal... and it would never be required on the road, so no big deal if it stops working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 What about an extra tank in line somewhere to hold extra capacity? Possibly build and ali tank with a few fins? Run some ducting to it from an inner guard or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Why does the intake need to pop out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Because the airflow meter needs a straight pipe before/after it so it doesnt get turbulence and what not causing incorrect readings. Pretty hard to stick it anywhere else with bends etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 Really? The answer is quads then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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