toyabusa

Sorry for the rimu spam, got the bedside tables pretty much sorted today. Might add drawers later but thats a lot of work tbh

Matching Tv stand and working on a couple of bedside tabes the same style at the moment

Rimu coffee table out of a slab a mate milled, legs are 50mm shs squares I mitred and tig'd up

Decided I need a proper fab table. Want it to be strong, stable and level. I've gone with 40 x 40mm box and a full 6mm sheet on top 2400 x 1220 The frame is under size to leave a 50mm overhang to clamp things to and I'm making the feet adjustable so it can be leveled wherever it sits.

I haven't had a good at it through the travel yet, by eye the arms look pretty equal so shouldn't change toe too much. First things first I need to build a welding table that I can adjust to get perfectly level. Then I'll set the subframe up on that level and square up the hub faces to ride height and make a jig. Definitely agree with making it high in the car so I can space it down. I'll try and sort a way to mock it in place and be able to run through full travel etc. Quite daunting at the moment with no reference points lol

Soooo.... Sorting this diff. I am thinking of making some plates to hold the hub faces square where they should sit in the wheel arch at ride height. Then with the arms attached I can position the subframe so it is square and centered and then just move it up and down until the arms are in the right position at ride height. Arms horizontal? I realise the hub faces will want to move in and out but you get what I mean. Genius ideas welcomed

Picked this up today Some where in here is a spot that will see it sitting level and square at the right height.......... I am not exactly sure how I'm going to find that spot yet but it is there

Worked out well, glad I did it now. Still have to do the other side

I cut the inside of the sills out so I can start with fresh steel, was unsure if this was a good idea once it was gone

My engine was mounted with Nolathane suspension bushes and the gearbox solid mounted. It is a horrid thing lol wouldn't recommend for a street car

I need to add a couple more bits to my frame that will hold the strut tower tops in place and then have a few beers before cutting the front end away leaving just the tower tops and the cross member floating in the right spots..

So I'm past the point of no return,

That's awesome, thanks!

It's about time! I have a good space to do things now so it's a lot easier to get things done. My chassis rails are pretty bad.... have been bent and straightened a few times.... I think they have to go for good What is Tony using now? I haven't seen or spoken to him in years

I have been making a frame to hold the shell and to keep the suspension points located when I cut various bits out. I'm not planning on changing the front suspension points too much as it worked pretty well already although I may go to separate caster rods and anti roll bar.

Yea, it would be a lot easier to start with a fresh shell but this one has sentimental value lol.

It will be getting a new floor and cage tied into the front and rear suspension. Planning on doing independent rear end

Time to get back into this thing. After having a look over it I have decided it is past throwing another diff at and patching it up again. It is cracking all over the place and generally just falling apart. So I have stripped it out and will be rebuilding it to hopefully be reliable enough to just take to events and drive hard without worrying if it will hold together.

Interesting they say 0 degrees is ok as I was taught that they need some angle so the rollers roll and are not loaded hard into the cups. I've been shown one that had been flogged out due to this, you could clearly see the rollers had left imprints in the cup.

No doubt you have heard this a lot but awesome work man! That panel work on the firewall and trans tunnel is really something to be proud of!