Ke36 Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 hey guys im having some trouble with my car heating up during b-owts and it hitting a temp related rev/boost cut real easy not good coz i wanna huss the bags at nats coming up so anyone got ideas on how to make my cooling system better while stationary? its allready got a new 3 row lancer turbo rad 14inch fan mounted hard against the core (cant fit anything larger on there, the 14 just fits) im thinking of raising the rear of the bonnet a bit to allow ir to flow out a bit better? also making up a shroud to incase the whole of the radiator so the fan is pulling air from all over it like this just worried to how this would effect open road driving? my cooling system performs mint everywhere else its just doing skids it packs a sad quick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Increase the amount of water it can hold either by longer and larger dia pipes or by a tank somewhere perhaps. Also make sure the air from the fan is going through the rad 100% Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Shroud shouldn't affect it negatively as cars tend to have them stock anyway. It should improve the cooling a bit while stationary as the fan will draw the air over the whole radiator. Is your fan electric or belt? Generally the belt fans are better as they are a lot beefier and can push more air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Tripass radiator and decent coolant + water wetter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Shroud shouldn't affect it as cars tend to have them stock anyway. Is your fan electric or belt? Generally the belt fans are better as they are a lot beefier and can push more air. Shroud DOES affect it. Use a shroud! It forces the air through the exchanger. If possible block other free/empty space on the sides etc. as well. It won't adversely affect your open road driving, at least not to a point of concern. If you were really worried about drag co-efficient you'd not have started with a Lancer. Generally you'll want your shroud to be angled slightly to direct the air towards the fan also, I guess that comes down to how much room you have though really. Do your radiator/cooling tubes flow past the exh. manifold side? If so, try heat wrapping on both the turbo and the fluid pipes. Alternatively directly flow further from the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Requiemk Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Air will naturally want to flow the easiest way so a shroud is necessary. If this doesn't solve problem Mount Your fan on the other side so its pushing air through the radiator and mount up a locked viscous fan or constant fan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 its a electric fan cant run a belt one as no room and its a vr4 engine in ex lancer ive basically got the biggest rad i can fit in there no room either side really the core is roughly 475mm by 350mm , and im hesitant to change it as it cost me almost $500 ive got 50/50 water coolant at the mo does that water wetter shit actually work? yea cars run shrouds factory, are the newer shrouds on cars that blocked off?im only used to seeing older cars with clutch fans and half shrouds but i think newer cars have full cover shoruds correct? im basically limited by the fact ive got fuck all room so the shroud would only be able to be around 10mm deep not allow much area behind the core before the air hits the metal then has to go through the hole where the fan is EDIT:cos ky got in before me i think yowz meant as in it wont effect my temps/flow through rad when driving pipes dont go near the exhuast but the one from the rear of the head goes right under the inlet manifold/next to the block i think my cooling sytem is adequate as it rules while moving and when stopped it traffic the fan is able to take temps down well enough to turn off after a short while, it just doesnt seem to keep up when giving it assholes second edit cos req got in too cant fit a fan on front as intercooler is there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Try less coolant and more water. If it was me, I'd even just run straight water if it was for a one-off competition or something and drain it afterwards. Coolant has a way shitter heat transfer coefficient and specific heat capacity than plain water. This advice may be poos though as I have no experience doing enormous b-outs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 water wetter is all good lowered the average running temp on my race bike by 8degrees all i believe it does its relieve the surface tension or sum shite to allow faster heat transfer failing that add a big header tank in there will take longer to cook Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Shroud shouldn't affect it as cars tend to have them stock anyway. Is your fan electric or belt? Generally the belt fans are better as they are a lot beefier and can push more air. Shroud DOES affect it. Use a shroud! It forces the air through the exchanger. If possible block other free/empty space on the sides etc. as well. It won't adversely affect your open road driving, at least not to a point of concern. If you were really worried about drag co-efficient you'd not have started with a Lancer. Ha yeah thats what I was going for. What I meant is it doesn't affect open road driving. Didn't realize you quoted me before I edited it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Requiemk Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 by the sounds your radiator is big enough you need to increase the airflow through it whilst stationary, can intercooler be moved forward to slide a thin electric fan in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_mkii_rs2000 Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 where is your thermostat positioned in the system compared to the radiator. When my turbo capri kept getting hot we found that the original thermostat position (after the rad) was not helping things, so chucked it and fitted a new one in the system before the rad, which helped massively. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 fuck the thermostat off for the skids, get better water flow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 Arse the thermostat! Maybe ditch the electric fan, and run a fan off the engine with a shroud. Or even both. Why dont you think you cant run a fan off the water pump? I can. And i think i will. Wheres some video of the cloud making? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
escortwags Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 if ya got the cash get an EWP!! no more cooling issues on the spot ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 But if the car is reving when doing a burnout then shouldnt the pump be going hard anyways. Tho, EWP prob a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 But if the car is reving when doing a burnout then shouldnt the pump be going hard anyways. Tho, EWP prob a good idea. electronic water pump is a waste of time/money. Good if you like to drive really slow with low revs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 But if the car is reving when doing a burnout then shouldnt the pump be going hard anyways. Tho, EWP prob a good idea. electronic water pump is a waste of time/money. Good if you like to drive really slow with low revs but they seem to work mega sweet in race cars etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 fair enough. Seems like something that would be a waste. Motor is revving so turning waterpump at a hell of a rate of knots so would assume it would be the same sorta throughput(ish) Race cars change revs lots though so not a very even flow. When sitting near the rev limiter all during skid, it'll be nice and even. Also, if race cars dont run alt, running EWP = better performance (miniscule) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Solving cooling issues often seem to be like dogs chasing their tails. Zep had cooling issues with a turbo'd Isuzu Gemini engine. A similar thread to this but with 3 pages of abuse. He was running a rebuilt engine with acid dipped block, massive custom (brand new) radiator, electric fan etc. Everything seem'd like it should be sweet but it was overheating under boost. Ended up that when he put it all back together the system was flushed except for the heater core, which was full of shit. This shit subsquently clogged the radiator and resulted in insufficient cooling. My newly rebuilt 2 litre engine has an average sized radiator which recieves cool air through a chevette grill (must be one of the smaller surface areas of most cars), with a 13" (I think) electric fan in the front - one from a FWD Nissan or something with a small shroud. The van virtually never turns on because the cooling system works well. Your's should do the same as both of the above. Just because its a turbo engine I don't think it should need any super crazy aftermarket electric water pump, a 16 gallon radiator, or 7 cooling fans spining at 72000rpm. Even when doing epic b-owts OR hussing said bags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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