Chrome_GT Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Have experimented at work with a continuously high reving 2stroke. Setup 1 = 2 x 15l/min davies craig EWPs - delivered 30l/min when going through 25mm OD pipes. Setup 2 = 1 x 80l/min davies craig EWP - delivered 50l/min when going through 25mm OD pipes We did get a drop in Engine temp of up to 5° so it did work but not heaps. Some would say youd get better heat transfer as the water is hotter across the radiator so bigger temp difference between that and the ambient air. But at the same time this means that warmer water is being flowed into the engine, therefore the temp differential there is less. It's and energy thing not a temp thing - you'd need to know flow rate and temps drops to determine the energy dumped. Water wetter didn't seem to help in our case - however have heard good things about it. Can you substitute long lengths of rubber piping or hoses for aluminium elbows and straights? Maybe chuck a heater matrix somewhere and use it as a secondary radiator. I wouldn't put this in line though as may be a flow restriction. Run your in car heater on hot Go with less coolant - water is the best thing for ripping heat out, coolant disturbs this. All coolant does is give corrosion protection and increases the boiling point. Maybe drop to 20% as 50% seems far too high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 what about a fan infront of your oil cooler?try fitting "fins" to your sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 what about a fan infront of your oil cooler?try fitting "fins" to your sump. yea could help heaps when truck oil cooler fuck out its game over period so i assume that if your oil is cool you motor will be too .. def not more important then coolant but itd help shitloads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 If i was in your position i would do as someone said above, remove thermostat. Warm it up, do a skid and see if it gets to running temp. My MR2 does and i can vary it with the two electric fans. Could also jimmy up a water sprayer. Intercooler water spray makes massive difference, id say it would on a radiator as well. After a shower stand in front of a fan and you will see how fast you freeze your ass off. Just dont get caught in an awkward situation lol. Also need to be 100% sure the system is functioning as it should. ie nothings blocked. I like to take the thermostat out, put about 1/4 cup of dish washing liquid in, go for drive, leave it over night, go for another drive and then dump it, flush like hell and put it all back together. Amazing what comes out with the detergent added after it has already run clear. Solved my overheating problems. -Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 water sprayer on like everything could be real good, those racing trucks have them on everything, even brakes chur!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 Maybe you should be looking at the cause rather than the effect. If the ignition is retarded it will run hotter. If the AFR isn't right it will run hotter. The ammount of heat that the cooling system has to get rid of is closely related to your fuel consumption, therefore if it's good on fuel, it won't make excessive heat. Being a mitsi, having an aftermarket ECU, the chances of it being tuned properly are pretty slim. Also being a Mitsi, it's probably detonated a bit and the headgasket won't be sealing properly, You'll get air bubbles in the cooling system, that WILL make it overheat even more. plus when motor is at max revs or close to it the water pump ends up cavitating and just slushing the water around rather then pumping it due to it spinning like crazy.. Only when there's air in the cooling system. Ive always been told that if you flow too much water thru the rad it doesnt have time to cool it. Aparently more flow isnt always the answer, this sounbds true to me but could be porkies as Ive never tried. Porkies. I think an electric water pump is more for being able to pump coolant through the block while the engine is shut down, and to perhaps reduce load on the motor by one less ancillary to drive. The alternator has to work harder to make up for it. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 plus when motor is at max revs or close to it the water pump ends up cavitating and just slushing the water around rather then pumping it due to it spinning like crazy.. Only when there's air in the cooling system. if spinning hard enough can it not pull a vacuum cavity behind the fins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 if spinning hard enough can it not pull a vacuum cavity behind the fins? Theoretically , yes...... in practice..... no......otherwise everyone would have problems, particularly in 'Good" motors that spin to 10K rpm. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 plus when motor is at max revs or close to it the water pump ends up cavitating and just slushing the water around rather then pumping it due to it spinning like crazy.. Only when there's air in the cooling system. if spinning hard enough can it not pull a vacuum cavity behind the fins? From what i understand a cavity is only created if there is a piece of air in there. No matter how much vacuum you put there it wont do anything unless there is the smallest bit of air. When there is air in there, the vacuum behind the fin multiples the air volume. When it flys off the end of the fin it suddenly goes back to a positive pressure which = vibration and sand blasting effect. Father and i have been scratching out heads with the jet boat jet unit which is just one huge water pump. Taking out the thermostat is only a quick fix to the cooling problem. The thermostat creates an opposing force on the water pump which creates a mechanical positive pressure on the system. I think that is what also slows the cavitation. In a fully functioning system the water pump should work fine on the rev limit. The manufactures dont spend millions developing the systems to have them fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 what thermostate sender are you using in the EX anyway?It needs to be a 1200 ex if its a 1200 ex or a 1600ex if its 1600.i spent about a year trying to figure out why my old ex was running hot, turned out to be because i was using the 4g63 thermo sender unit and onve i screwed the 1200 one back in it was mint as, also i took the thermostate out and it did help things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 thermostat sender?? only thing ex still there is the factory temp gauge sender gauge the thermostat is a vr4 one and the coolant temp sender which talks to the ecu is the factory vr4 one, turns fans on etc heres my shroud i made hopefully it does the trick, the fan looks bigger than it is cos its pushed to the lefthand side of the rad to clear the thermostat housing where can you buy that water wetter shit? just like repco etc im guna look into putting a small fan on the oil cooler too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 That Radiator looks to small for the Engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forced Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 An FMIC doesn't normally help either...... blowing hot air through the radiator. Certainly not on my own mod list, nor ever likely to be. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 That Radiator looks to small for the Engine wtf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 there wont be a problem with the rad size, pleanty of ppl have done the same conversion and dont have problems, i think its just that doin burnouts is the lack of air flow when doin phat b-outs im guessing eh? Tried the lancerregister?might be some good ideas there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 yea rad size isnt an issue plus its 3 rowed now dunno wat ur on about yea caboon its definately airflow when sitting stationary, i was just after ideas on ways to improve this, half the people helping seem to have missed this point completely hopefully try out my shroud one day during the week, just gotta get some new oil lines sorted twomorrow cos the old ones no longer fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 if your shroud doesnt work you could always try a bunnings spec spray bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrome_GT Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 The above posts reminded me of the ater water sprayer trick. We use that all the time and should help especially with the fan pulling it right through. Easiest way is irrigation equipment from bunnings etc as bubblegose said. Use a small pump or even consider a pump up weed sprayer as should get a good 60seconds out of that. If your only doing burnouts then removing bonnet shouldn't be a problem eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 The above posts reminded me of the ater water sprayer trick. We use that all the time and should help especially with the fan pulling it right through. Easiest way is irrigation equipment from bunnings etc as bubblegose said. Use a small pump or even consider a pump up weed sprayer as should get a good 60seconds out of that. If your only doing burnouts then removing bonnet shouldn't be a problem eh? I used irrigation bits on my old Subaru's FMIC, you can use the stock washer bottle and pump for a low pressure set up (I added a third pump to my stock bottle) and even though its not blasting a couple of litres a minute it really makes a difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Not that this is a very practical solution at all BUT. Steve said above that intercooler would mean hot air is going through the rad, this would be true. At stationary speeds or slow speeds how much does an intercooler actually do? From what i understand its bugger all! So if you were to remove the cooler, or replace with a way smaller one, while doing burnouts then this would theoretically cool the system. How much I am unsure. Very unpractical but would be a cool experiment none the less. Water wetter onto rad would be cool if it was put between cooler and rad and spray onto both. Dual purpose stz. I gues they come with electric pumps and all that jaz with the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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