Chrome_GT

Just logged into Oldschool for the first time in years and searched Capri, and came across this post. Awesome build JR. My orange Capri hasn't seen any attention in 7 years since having kids as well haha! So i know the feeling. Just in case the leather strap issue isn't resolved you can order them minispares.com or any other Mini parts uppliers. They are used on Mini bonnets a lot and will be the perfect size.

Mikesgarage Good for modern stuff. Offer various brands. Beware they always charge VAT even though sending international. Irish rules apparently. Good prices. Efficient shopping. Good website Have bought alfa stuff from there Cheers

I had same symptoms on my capri. Would pull up at lights an the car would just die as it dropped to idle, ten wouldn't restart. Another symptom at te same time was on cold humid nights the car wouldn't fire unless the the distributor was kept reasonably warm. I honestly had a hair dryer in the garage to help in those situations The problem: I was running a non ballast coil when I should have been running a ballast coil. So even though I could see the spark whenever I checked, it must have been quite weak. I'm unsure I this helps you though with you elec ignition. The knowledge it was a weak spark may help narrow it down.

Brilliant to see the feedback on here. I'll get in touch over pm with more details. Got some work required for the mini and then the capri you may be keen to have a go at. Mini needs a new piece of tunnel section under the handbrake lever. The front weld on the level bracket gave way which meant the bracket pryed open a nasty tear every time the handbrake was used. Can you braze as well? I noticed there is already some brazing there so that may change what you do. Will send photos etc so you can give me an idea of what you reckon is needed and cost etc. Capri has some quite serious work at the lh sill, floor, inner guard. Also many minor jobs required such as bubbles on arches, patch near headlights etc.

Not sure if similar but... On my mk2 capri, the hinges were sloppy simply because the hinge pins were rotten. All they are is roll pins which you can buy from edl blacks etc. you tap/pull them out of the hinge and whack some new ones with copper grease and all is well. In my case I used a Sykes pickervant hinge pin removal tool.

Hi. I'm particularly interested in British motors Ford OHC, Mini A Series Engines etc. I've found David Vizards books quite good (Ford SOHC, Mini & BL Series). They'll give you a good all round understanding of things which can be done. As someone said above details may change with Jappa motors but maybe a good intro is what you need before worrying about details. https://www.google.c...iw=1851&bih=995 I learnt most of the stuff while doing an aircraft mechanic course with Air NZ as the tutors would go off in tangents when we discussed Piston Engines Are there any cheap courses at Polytech that do an engine rebuild over a couple weeks? You can guarantee the tutor and other students will discuss potential mods while you are rebuilding the bog standard motor.

Hey. Is there any chance you swapped the Coil recently? I had these symptoms. Turned out I'd put a non ballast coil into my car (which has a ballast resistor) This gave less spark so although it ran, it was difficult to start when cold and if dropping revs at intersections it'd sometimes die.

If they are the same as the escort ones then contact palmside automotive - hoonhay

Yeah I'm on my 2nd urethane one - the holes ended up oval which caused the steering to slip and graunch when tight turns at low speeds (ie parking). Could be due to proximity to the pipes. Only replaced it with another urethane cos it was convenient. Not sure where you could get rubber ones

I imagine one of those paint remover drill attachments will rip the clearcoat off no problem

Capri 2000GT recore only xcost me $200 from A1 Radiators in 2007 (maybe 2008). I had several spare radiators but when swapping them around i found they all had leaks or too many missing cooling fins. So got a recore - They come out looking like brand new!!. Pretty sure Cortina 2000 & Capri 2000 had almost exactly the same radiator - except the top hose connection switched sides or bent 90° or something. So a Capri radiator may be worth looking for on Trademe / ebay etc. Not 100% sure but Escorts ones have the same mounting positions too.

Same Guy? January 26, 2010 - 11:15am Photo of the Week was caught by our roving photographer couple of Kevin and Michelle - they caught the end of Brian Bradshaw's Modified Sprint crash which proved to be quite nasty, Brian suffered a broken pelvis and cracked hip from the incident.Brian has a long history in motorsport and we hope that he recovers quickly and we can see him on the track again.

Wow, had no idea about all that. I'll shut up now

There's a guy Brian Bradshaw. He had a workshop in Hillsborough a couple years ago but has since closed - Impwerks. Might be worth doing a google as he may have another workshop you can take your imp too. His own one was immaculate in red.

That's what I reckon too. Bloody good to know. At minimum I thought you had to wait 30 days before going to somewhere else - assuming the system would not allow them to log a pass. But now i know better, cheers guys. Sorry for the hijack

Did you fail a wof at one place and went on to get the wof done again and passed at another place within 30 days? I thought you couldn't do that cos the fail gets logged in the system. Sounds good if it is allowed. very curious as this could be an easy way of getting around wof failures for rediculous things

Yeah check brushes for sure - easy to do and cheap. Also make sure your ignition light comes on when you turn the key to 1 position before start (on?) - They say it 'excites' the alternator into action. If that doesn't come on then then it is something else like a plug coming loose or possibly just the bulb (i think it needs to work to excite the alt circuit). Some sparky will know more.

That photo of the brake shoes looks like there is no pad on the Rightmost shoe but there is. It starts a couple inches from the end. The same thing happens on the lower end of the leftmost shoe in the next photo. I'm pretty sure that is normal. Looks like you have 2mm minimum so just check that is above the min required. Hint. Take photos before dismantling things like brake drums, dashboards , . That is a good way of recording shoes orientation,spring hook locations etc

Re non starting. A couple things which have got me in the past. 1. Check to make sure there is enough gap in the points. If too close you'll get issues. 2. Plugs onto coil. If pins rather than spades make sure the sockets are tight. 3. Ballast coil vs non ballast coil. Not sure way a mini needs but make sure u have the right one

I just bought H7s from Ebay $4 each or something like that - cheap as! ex hongkong. Blue glass but advertised as Superwhite. 55W apparently aswell. They look whiter but when driving i have definitely noticed a huge drop in illumination, not just a change of colour. So the morel of my story is don't buy cheap no name bulbs. I'm now going to go and buy proper branded bulbs from Repco, Supercheap, Butlers.

Sorry in a rush so haven't read replies. I painted my mini with Acrylic Laquer using a 50litre 2.5hp compressor. That compressor size was very borderline but was ok for a mini.

'tyres to go' have been the cheapest i have found for new tyres. Tony's would probably match whatever price though.

If you have a CAD file of the gasket there is a place up north where you can get them made really accurately. Perhaps not what you are after but i'll post a link up here once i find the name of the place. We got a whole lot of CR500 barrel gaskets done. Was cheaper to get them made than to buy them!

Original Capri: 32/26dgav no fuel return line at all, the location is cast solid. Currently fitted: 32/36dgav with return line. From a 78 Cortina - i kept the return line, fuel sender etc just incase i wanted to retrofit this to the capri. I just added a Y connection in before the filter and ran the return line back to that. Hopefully the return line also has a check valve otherwise this could be allowing fuel to bypass the filter. http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13 from above site - may apply in your case too: "Did you know why the Weber 32/36 carb has a fuel return line? It's nothing to do with overfilling or anything like that! In fact, up to 1976 they didn't have a return. The carb is designed to draw in the fumes from the fuel in the float chamber to prevent them building up. Trouble is, if you leave the car idling on a hot day, the fumes created are excessive and affect the mixture sufficently to increase the emissions leaving the exhaust. With increasing legislation against pollution etc, it was decided to put in a return line so that a constant flow of cooler fuel was passing through the carb, hence reducing the fume build up and lowering emissions.:"" "Weber's official method for fitting the later carb to an earlier car is to T the return hose back into the supply from the pump a couple of inches back from the carb, using a T piece with a one way valve in it"

Hey this sounds very familiar. Are you sure you are using the correct coil? The symptoms I had: Capri was a pain to start - i resorted to crc engine start regularly just to get it to spark up Capri would seemingly run ok until i pulled up to traffic lights - went dropping to idle it would sometimes die and then not start at all All symptoms were worse on wet days. I thought it was mixture too cos there was spark - it'd been a while since i last saw a normal one so didn't realise it was weak. I also thought i had a loose distributor shaft as it had some axial play. Turns out I was a dumbass and had fitted a non ballast coil in my Capri which does have a ballast resistor. This meant less voltage was available for sparking it up. Took a while to find the fault, over a year if i remember right. In your case you may have the wrong coil or your coil is just stuffed.