My name is Russell Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 Cheers boes Yeah leaning towards the smoked gauges. But I'm still a fan of the smiths. I think they are choice in that when the car is turned of you really don't notice them against the black crash pad and they are very clear to see when turned on. wonder if they will cause reflections on the windscreen. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB8-TypeR Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Smoked gauges do reflect heaps on the windscreen at night, I got some cheap a while ago. Can see them ok during the day, the warning lights are pretty bright which is good. Also the dimming for when headlights are on does stuff all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 think the smoked guages could work aslong as they are fitted nicley and not stuck on pillars and screwed to the top of your dash could slam a variable resistor in there somwhere to dimm them down at night? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Or ya could just chuck it in the wank bin and use/have my Smiths vaccum gauage if I can find. Also thought on fixing our lower arm problem. What bout moving the whole strut upwards. Would have to turret the top like Duncan had in the avenger. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Cancel that, we would have to lower the strut right? I didn't get under your car last night and look. So we would have to lower the strut. Same principle could be used however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Or ya could just chuck it in the wank bin and use/have my Smiths vaccum gauage if I can find. Also thought on fixing our lower arm problem. What bout moving the whole strut upwards. Would have to turret the top like Duncan had in the avenger. Gaz Because that wouldn't help Its from the hub down that needs modifying anything above that wont change anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowlancer Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 moar pics of wheels please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 fuck man i need to hang out with you guys more , this shit interests me immensly but im practical minded so cant understand all this writing and pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Because that wouldn't help Its from the hub down that needs modifying anything above that wont change anything Yeap got it pictured now. The lower arm mount underneith or ontop of the steering arm? I cant member. If it mounts under then giving ya wheels neg camber will flatten the arm out a bit. How much I guess depends on the ratio of lower arm to steering arm and how much camber you want to give. This combined with moving the inner mounting point of the arm on the crossmember up as much ass you can may give you another inch or two of lowness. Could try chuck some other struts in it from some other random car with the mounting points in better positions. I know some of the targa guys use Maxima struts, perhaps for this reason? Couldn't find much info on it however anywhere I looked. or Get custom lower arms made to a certable standard.. or try other small ford lower arms as some may have different angles.. Likely to stuff the ackerman angle up however. Just more thoughts. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 EDIT IGNOR THIS POST Is this the reason for getting bump steer?>... When the TCA gets to a point (generally above running level?) that the sway bar looses its pre sprung upwards resistance to absorb the impact and instead is forced to far up its beyond it sprung point? Therefore if you modified the sway bay to avoid this would bump steer be solved? Flipping it wouldn't help. Oversizing the hole so that you can get more rotation without it catching on the edge another passable cause of bumposteer? What about if you put some sort of rose joint in there instead of just bushes? No bad idea! Solid mount instead of bushes? No bad idea probably. would a compression strut kit help as below? Get rid of the swaybar altogether? Not sure how they perform on lowered car, and i think they are more for rally height cars for breaking response? improved handling and breaking for group A and works cars allowing caster adjustment and removing the need for a sway bar. Because i figured we are absorbing all the impact fine by shortening the housing so that sweet. And the TCA can rotate freely upwards so figured next thing to look at would be the swaybar. I bet the next problem will be the steering rack arm will get right in the way. http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread. ... ion+Struts "The angles involved with comp struts if installed level at ride height can mean constant castor in bump, but less castor in droop." Also just saw this Need to compare that on my struts but wouldnt that mean escort struts are better? / not sure what ones had arms like that? To tired will read this tommorrow and probably realise im making no england Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Bumpsteer Research .................... Bump-steer is the result of poor (and sometimes unavoidable) suspension geometry. ................... From Wiki Method of Adjustment The linearity of the bump steer curve is important. If it is not straight then the length of the tie rod needs to be adjusted. Bump steer can be made more toe out in jounce by lifting the rack or dropping the outer tie rod, if the rack is in front of the axle. The reverse applies if the rack is behind the axle. Usually only small adjustments (say 3mm) are required. ................................ When the car hit a bump and lowered, the short tie rod would straighten more than the long one. This would increase the amount of toe-in at the wheel on the short tie-rod side, causing the car to steer to one side. Quite entertaining on a winding bumpy road! Later on, the 911 addressed this problem by employing rack and pinion steering with equal length tie rods. In these cars the tie rods were parallel with the ground and caused very little toe change as the car went through bumps. This diagram shows the change made with introduction of the 911, which introduced rack and pinion steering with equal-length tie rods. As time went on, people discovered that if you lowered a 911, it would handle much better. However, this caused yet another problem: the tie rods were now at such an angle that a bump in the road would cause excessive toe change. On a lowered 911, spacers between the steering rack and front suspension member raise steering rack and keep tie rods equal. While this problem would not cause the car to pull to one side or another, it did create a very darty feeling. The cure was to install spacers between the steering rack and the front suspension member to raise the steering rack. This levels out the angled tie rods causing less toe change. This is what is done when someone is said to "set the bump steer." ................... Iv read that you can buy cranked tarmac arms to counter this? anyone know anything about them? .................... This was an interesting post i found http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread. ... bump+steer This could be the 1st thing i have a go at. .................... Would this be legal in NZ? guessing not! http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread. ... bump+steer .................... Take your coil springs off, chock the front wheels up in the air with some sturdy boxes. Raise and lower the car through the front suspension travel, look for the wheels toeing in and out as you move the car up and down. Thats bump steer. Mustang anti bump steer kit .................. the Ackerman Steering Principle describes the relationship between the front wheels of a vehicle as they relate to each other when in a turn. The inner wheel will be traveling in a smaller diameter circle than the outer wheel. .................. http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/ackerman.html .................. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_ ... g_geometry .................. http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/ackerman.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 That RS hole being further up would be my first try at remedy. May have to weld a new plate on or fill the old hole. Make it as high as posable but remember that too high and the arm will hit the chassis rail on its upper stroke. Shortened shocks would mean it doesn't go as high so really need shocks before messing with this? I have a set of mk1 struts with those different lower ams on them but I just sold them on trademe. Think the guy is picking up Thurs. If you want to try them tomorrow night then let me know and I will bring them back to Kilbirnie side. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo3 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Crickey those flares are big, will make a pretty meke seat I reckon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Not trying to be smart, you mentioned you're mounting the flares lower Wouldnt that look a tad strange? They tend to look weird if mounted too far below the swadgeline in the body work You need them higher so you can lower the car more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Have a play with re-locating the hole to change the roll centre, it's a good idea - the same concept as using RCA's on later macpherson strut setups. As far as those ideas on creating a similar arc between steering arm and lower arm, there are simple ways to figure out where the best spot for the steering arm is. Basically you want to make both arms share a common arc, and if you can do that there will be much less toe fluctuation = less bump steer. I'll tell you more when I get further into my book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Wouldnt that look a tad strange? They tend to look weird if mounted too far below the swadgeline in the body work The flares will be the very last thing to be fitted The swage line ends at the flare and i will also be re shaping pars of the flare with fiberglass into the body. Its the front thats mainly an issue as you can still fit your head under there with the car slammed on its ass. Need to get the leaves re set on the rear as i currently have 4 inch lowering blocks in the rear which is the most my U bolts will give and i want no need lower! So mabie 3" reset leaves if thats passable then 2" blocks or the other way around. so 5" drop. Mabie thats un realistic yet to find out. I think with the lowness on the rear from the tinkering iv just done i may not need to drop the rear flares/much. Still lots n lots of test fitting to come. Fun. just chopped one of the rear guards apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Crickey those flares are big, will make a pretty meke seat I reckon. The fronts are a seat the rear is a bench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk1Mad Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Hmmm Think, if you are going to need to do something with the steering arms you need to use your capri struts with removerable arms. Pretty sure RS2000 (can get remanufactured in the UK) steering arms have a lower taper point reletive to mounting bolts, than standard escort (as in pic above). Also, with that much lowerage you are going to need to do a diff tunnel and maybe even a bit more room for the driveshaft at the rear. Then, its a matter of where to put the exhaust... straight under the diff prehaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Also, with that much lowerage you are going to need to do a diff tunnel and maybe even a bit more room for the driveshaft at the rear. Then, its a matter of where to put the exhaust... straight under the diff prehaps. I have 3 diddles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 how bad do you think the bump steer will be? the only reason i ask is the front of my van is pretty fuking low i can just get 1 finger between the guard and the tyre and thats with 13" rims. all i done in the past was replace tie rod ends and bottom arms and all the bushes and a fucking good wheel alinment and i havt had any issues. cheers dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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