My name is Russell Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Im not to sure. From the mocking up i did last night i think it may be ok to leave as it is. I was more just doing research to know more about it and to see what options there are such as moddyfying the crossmember, which looks like a good thing to try to minimise it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I would have to agree with Nick about rear tunel needing expanding. My standard one with 3inch blocks was damn close in last escort. Got bigger diff now also. Id with full load itll hit on upwards stroke.. Could just put some lareg bumpstops in there tho to stop and would be legal. Re bump steer. It wont be that bad. My escort had the arms way on the piss and I didn't notice it, well, not enough to cause a problem. Admitidly I didnt know what bump steer was back then, but if it was that bad I would have known something was wrong! On the other hand when I got my Cortina certed the guy made me get wheel alignment and the guy to check bump steer specifically. Guess this could have been partly because I did a rack and pinion conversion however. IMO this is something you sort AFTER you have the struts in. One of the last things I think. 1. Mount struts, remove springs, drop car to desired height. Dont worry about lower arm at this stage. 2. Measure from reference point on strut to reference point on body, say from the part where the strut tube goes through, to the underside of the body where the strut top mounts. This will give you the length of shock you need. 3 Decide roughly where spring needs to seat to sit car at this level, youhave over 100mm of adjustment remember. 4 Browse catalog and find shock with 2.5inch travel each direction from your length you measured PLUS the right length, or close enough length to that of your newly shortened housing. Need to shorten housing to suit the shock but also choose the shock to suit the housing if you get what I mean. It can be spaced both diameter wise and length wise if need be. 5 Now sort ya lower arm as the car will be resting in its exact place. Start by moving the mounting point on the crossmember. From memory you cant move it upwards bugger all as stuff starts foulibng. You can also use this time to adjust your camber by drilling the hole further in or out. 6 Jack car fully up and make sure that on full droop & full lock the steering arm dosn't foul with the lower arm. If it does shortening the shocks can help correct this to a degree. 7 If you still need more adjustment its time to start playing with other arms to see what will work. 8 Kick it if all above doesnt work. ^^ Tis what I am planning on doing, might be fundementaly wrong, im unsure as havnt done it myself yet. Another option may be to lengthen your steering rack with rack extensions like I did in my cortina. Then use a longer bottom arm if can get. It will widen the track (which you want to do anyway, will benefit handling also). There are lots of ways to start trying to fix the problem, wether any of them work is another story. My 5$ Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 i also thing that with diffs you guys are running you will need a diff tunnel and as for the exhaust just make and exhaust tunnel down the side you exhaust runs. then you can get it as low as you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I thought there was heaps of room still but i oviosly missed something With 4" of bocks the diff was still over 1" away from the factory diff bump stop so about 3" of the body? How much travel does the rear end need with stuff shocks etc? my 4 door feels like it only moves an inch if that with the koni's in the rear I guess there is 50 odd Kg's of fuel to go over that leaf still and a bit of bog and the stig / passangers to complain about my tight seats etc Need to have a fresh look because those figures don't seem correct it was way late by the time i busted my back getting the assembled diff in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk1Mad Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Just thinking also. With your plans of a single rear tramp bar on the drivers side. With the diff as high in the body as you are planning you may need to mount the tramp bar off the bottom of the axle (and as such in comperession under load?) as to mount to the chassis rail up near the front spring eye the angle of the arm will pass through the body if mounted ontop of the axle? Maybe just maybe, just a thought. Think you need to get the leaves reset as you are always going to do and then we get the car set down at the ride height you want then place the axle etc in + a couple of fatties in the back to simulate fuel + everything else. Mocking up with it high on axle stands is a little decieving me thinks. + measure some heights etc and do some little diagrams of axle location Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 for future reff http://www.lvvta.org.nz/stdSuspensionSystems.pdf Turbo Reff Nissan 45V1 3 D 809B O4U 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Those flares are immense! Mean work man keep it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Welded up the tunnel last night did not take as long as expected. Anyone know if this is for injected cars? Or if it will be suitable for my application? http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=229303507 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Thought this was quite a cool easy idea for the battery. May look ugly from the back of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 You'd still want drain holes in it IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 probably a good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 You'll also need to have some form of strap or clamp to hold it in place or rather, down in the recess should you be involved in a crash. Battery stays are a WoF item. Wouldn't be hard to add a little hinged bit of steel in there though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Fire. Rivnuts. Death. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Yeah thats how i role baby Rivnuts can hold structual components together yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 DUMP PIPE Ok cant get my head around how to do this one. Picked up a standard Rb25det dump pipe but because my turbo is rotated 90 degrees to how the Rb25's are from factory the dump pipe goes on an angle that see's it head straight into the side of the engine. So i need one made from scratch. Should i just pass this onto a profesional? why would you take it to? Or i could have a go at doing imilar to what Fred's done http://www.mx6.com/forums/fe-dohc/18235 ... ere-8.html What thickness steel would you require? How would you go about it? Will need a flange cut 1st i guess. Or do you think i could chop n weld to the factory dump pipe which is probably cast? so im guessing no? Some cardboard templates is a good start i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 buy a precut one off trade me for $30-$40 and start from there. think ill leave it to the professionals though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Pretty important part of the engines performance. Most people get them made pro. The guy who did ya exhaust should be able to make them. Go wirh a 3inch one. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Should i be double or single plating? was going to just double plate so its 100% not going to be an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Can make them pretty easy OR buy them premade from Ripco, would cost ya bout $50 for all 16 allready made, zinc coated, nuts welded on, holes drilled. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Fuck that, thats like a bottles of beam! tell him hes dreaming! I'm a man on a budget tighter than a nuns cunt I'm guessing etch primed and painted is also acceptable for coating? Will plug weld them in place but not sure what they mean by the specified quality rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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