thegreatestben Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Last time I asked CPA for some sportmaxx wheels, I said I was from repco and he said $800 a set. only $95 but thats $95 you'd get to keep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Email address for the dude you were dealing with please? For the flares? will PM you his email address now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Last time I asked CPA for some sportmaxx wheels,I said I was from repco and he said $800 a set. only $95 but thats $95 you'd get to keep To late now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Email address for the dude you were dealing with please? For the flares? will PM you his email address now For the rims I think he means. Info on 16" tyres: If you wanted to have a tad of stretch then Toyo do a 205/40/16 for good value, last set I got was $160 each, they are an entry level sport tyre from Toyo but nothing wrong with em. Is prob what I will run on the front of mine once I get my shit together and stop working on Vauxhalls/houses! Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 he's getting 15x8's so 16" tyres would be way too balloon to fit lol. 15 has epic choices for tryes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Email address for the dude you were dealing with please? Oh if your after wheels this is the place here dude http://www.cpaspares.co.nz/ http://www.cpaspares.co.nz/products.pl? ... uctid=1037 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 he's getting 15x8's so 16" tyres would be way too balloon to fit lol. 15 has epic choices for tryes. Yeah I know was just info for others. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Dif life yo Got some 2" lowering blocks and U bolts on the way for the hilux diff $65 scoreage EDIT Looking at "RADIUS ARM KIT" now $150 seems like a good price for these? good idea? Just trying to work out how fitment works, what part of the body you weld it too anyone fitted ths kit before? https://www.burtonpower.com/product_mai ... 10&PSet=98 Think i will stay away from panhard rod, Watts Linkage, 4 link and turret kits for now keep it simple etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 mint doesnt look to hard Any tips on setting them up so it doesnt go like this You would fit them with axles stands under the diff im guessing so that you have them sitting at your ride height. How much force will be put through them? will the welds need to be super dupper well done is what im getting at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Think i will stay away from panhard rod (and fit a) Watts Linkage, 4 link and turret kits for now keep it simple etc. How the fuck is that simple? You are looking at purchasing and installing a suspension set-up designed to allow the replacment of the leaf springs with coil springs. Mate - what do you expect to achieve by this effort? If you want a car that really handles well then you could spend your time and money better elsewhere IMHO but you will end up with wheels you don't like and a ride height you don't like. Put a single longtitudinal link in to handle axle hop if you want but I really don't think you need all that other stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 pretty sure those are just tramp rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 All i was talking about fitting was these two bars for axle tramp? ... every photo iv seen of them so far people still have the leaves? For partially stopping axle tramp? Was not going to do any of those other things? bad idea then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 bad idea then? No tramp rods are a good idea. Calling them a link kit is a bad idea because people can easily get confused and think your talking about a 4/5 link kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 also if you can get the rear leaves reset. adding blocks just makes axletramp worse as you create a moment by moving the applied torque away from the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 bad idea then? No tramp rods are a good idea. Calling them a link kit is a bad idea because people can easily get confused and think your talking about a 4/5 link kit. Oops my bad just re read the description, its a "RADIUS ARM KIT" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 How much travel do these arms allow? I was thinking of getting the leaves reset 2" if thats possable? then having 1" lowering blocks if i wanted it lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 OK. You said you were going to fit a 4 link and Watts (which = five links BTW) so I thought you were going mental Tramp rods/traction rods/longtitudinal lower control arms are a great idea mate. A four link instal is overkill. Personally I reckon a single traction rod is better than a pair unless you are an expert fabricator and have very limited suspension travel. The potential for two rods to bind up in a corner is significantly greater than one rod binding up. A Watts link won't do bugger all that the leaf springs don't already do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Yup my bad i presumed linking was just what you called all this stuff in general. Wanting to stay well away from 4 link etc Ok so you recomend just one control arm, think iv heard you tell gaz that before ... any side in particular? If you have just a single one should it be closer to the diff head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 A single bar needs to go on the driver's side to be the most use. The reason is the torque produced by the engine applies more instant "weight" to one side of the vehicle than the other so the rod on the right hand side seems to work best. You can always fit two rods and just disconnect one if you have binding issues. Your other option is an A frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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