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Advice for rebuild


lowlancer

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Starting my first full blown engine rebuild tonight.

Before I start ripping her to bits completely, what should I know?

Should I mark certain things to ensure they line up all g when it's time to put it back together? Or given I'll be taking everything apart, does it not matter?

Basically ANY advice at all will be choice, even basic shit.

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Follow the 6 C's of engine building. Clean, clean, clean, check, check, check.

Make sure you've got all the tools at hand and all the bearings and gaskets too. Get some reassembly lube, don't be too jewish to use half the tub :D

If you're not gonna reassemble it anytime soon, get lots of snaplock bags and label them with masking tape to keep all the nuts and bolts together.

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best advice ever with the snaplocks, label them exactly where they come from on engine makes reassembly 10 x easier. also mark the pistons and rods and rod caps so the stay together and round the right way ect. put corresponding marks on crank as well, i used a centre punch put 1 dot for 1 2 for 2 ect on bearing caps and cransk.

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yeah +1 on the labeled ziplock bags. same with pistons rods etc. if you dont know how something is routed take fotos first you will thank yourself for it later. otherwise tools wise a torque wrench and a piston ring compresser and a pack of ciggy papers is all you should need

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If you are reusing the original rods and pistons, label them so they don't end up back in another bore (specifically the pistons).

Older 4G63s use normal head bolts, not torque to yield like newer engines do, so you can reuse the headbolts time and time again, but it might pay to measure them anyway incase they have been stretched before. For the sake of $40 for new headbolts, I'ld replace them anyway.

Get a machine shop to hone your bores and check the crank journal sizes - it'll cost under $100 and it'll save alot of pissing around and it will ensure things are completely sweet, having said that we rebuilt a 4G37 with a three prong stone hone and electric drill and to this day it doesn't use oil and has good compression.

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I really domt know anything about these engines, but does it have a harmonic balancer/dampener? Of so you will need a special puller to pop the barstard off, can hire them or super cheap has them well, super cheap.

But as what everyone else has said, stick the bits in bags and ladel them, even down to individual bolts pretty much, just makes everything so much easier in the long run. And take pics off all the stages as that will really help too.

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here one i just learnt the hard way :oops:

if your re-building a spare motor to then swap out, make sure your rebuilding the correct type of motor.

and dont be nervous/scared measure shit 50 times and write down you did so, loosing sleep because you cant remeber if you torqued down some early-in-the-build bolt fuckin sucks. (and youl end up pulling it down and finding that you did actually torque it down and you just wasted 4 hours)

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when installing/removing pistons put a small length of fuel or water hose over the big end studs, they have a nasty habit of marking the crank or bores otherwise. If your getting things honed and polished up again, not to much of a biggy, always do it for installation tho.

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