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Advice for rebuild


lowlancer

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Oh, I recommend Loctite Master Gasket as the meanest gasket sealant ever, also.

toyota shit seriously pwns all to bad its 90 bucks a tube, its so banging even nissan etc use it.

Yeah I can vouch for it. My mate works at Toyo so I got/had a few tubes. Awsome stuff

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Oh, I recommend Loctite Master Gasket as the meanest gasket sealant ever, also.

toyota shit seriously pwns all to bad its 90 bucks a tube, its so banging even nissan etc use it.

Got it for $50ish from warwick, It is fucking good stuff.

Fuck that shit sounds epic,

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Watch out for the instant gasket stuff. I siezed my old bsa bantam, and when I stripped it down - the work of only a few seconds - the reason became painfully clear: there's no way an oil pump is going to work when it's full of blue hermetite... lesson learnt!

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Got it for $50ish from warwick, It is fucking good stuff.

yea boe never paid $90 but thats the retail got sum staff hookups now :D. Anyway cunt you should stop being so gay and come around to discuss engines, carb manifolds and shit. You've been up here for ages now all of us hams boes have rebuilt several motors between us. Can give dodgy advive or maybe just drink piss

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You'd likely need a rattle gun to crack that. Even if you can stop the engine from turning the bolt may be up so tight you just lift the engine while trying to crack it. Still, a power bar and a hammer can go a long way :twisted:

And then a gear puller will get that sucker off because old pulleys are usually stuck the fuck on.

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^^ What a GC.

Sweet, id avoid using a hammer to shock bolts undone or even when when rebuilding in general.

Hrm only things ive needed a hammer for are..

Tapping the pistons into the bore (with a rag or something soft over them)

To get valve springs out of some heads (cheers UJ for that tip)

Maybe crank seals with a small hammer.

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Another way to get the front pulley off (though it was useless to you, so I didn't mention it) is with the head still on, feed some soft rope into the bore through a spark plug hole, then slowly turn the pulley until it meets the rope and then put some pressure on until the pulley bolt cracks, back it off, tighten it up enough to turn the pulley back the other way again, slowly and slightly, then pull the soft rope back out. Then because it's been cracked the pulley nut should come off with a regular rachet or strongarm bar and a gentle pull.

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Another way to get the front pulley off (though it was useless to you, so I didn't mention it) is with the head still on, feed some soft rope into the bore through a spark plug hole, then slowly turn the pulley until it meets the rope and then put some pressure on until the pulley bolt cracks, back it off, tighten it up enough to turn the pulley back the other way again, slowly and slightly, then pull the soft rope back out. Then because it's been cracked the pulley nut should come off with a regular rachet or strongarm bar and a gentle pull.

Have a big cam overlap or don't catch the compression stroke and goodbye valve(s) auw.

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with the head off, put a piece of wood the bore and then a steel strongback across the bore bolted down with the headbolts. Props if you can break a crank/headbolt.

What if pistons dont come above deck? :lol:

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with the head off, put a piece of wood the bore and then a steel strongback across the bore bolted down with the headbolts. Props if you can break a crank/headbolt.

What if pistons dont come above deck? :lol:

Thats what the block of wood is for, the wood needs to be longer than the stroke so that you lock the piston at the bottom and it cant move either way.

A steel strop/plate bolted to the flywheel and a gearbox mounting bolt is probably easier/better in most instances though, unless its a real stubborn one or the design means you cant. And of course, it depends whatever tools/items you have at you disposal at the time.

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