thegreatestben

Romans COD piece

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I personally feel we've steered too far away from the raw beauty that is a Roman vs MS Paint graph.  

The majesty is there with solidworks, but the raw emotion has been lost.

Do better Dave xx

 

PS: Paint 3D will do.

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Awesome info!

I was thinking about heading in this direction just for the ease of packaging, to know it wasn't just down to rules is even better.

Do you know what type/size of ITB's they used?

They also look like bigger runners then standard into the plenum

 

Here's a couple of pictures of it in place in the car that was sold on TM:

It was quoted as having "New 280 + BHP (dyno Sheet) Lyn Rogers 3S-GE engine."

386246542.jpg.7bd5f6f58b090aca74f36059ff38efe0.jpg

 

386248492.jpg.94e15cc72ae91ddc6805e27bf25dea69.jpg

386254650.jpg.f8fe78391d9d44a6a50659609e9fef80.jpg

 

 

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Oh thank you! 

I was looking for those pictures but couldnt find them. 

I'm sure that from memory they were around the 250hp mark when restricted to 10:1 which is pretty sweet in itself. 
But they could very well be higher HP especially if higher compression or had a tickle up since leaving the race series (which was friggen ages ago) 

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On 18/02/2019 at 17:22, Stu said:

I personally feel we've steered too far away from the raw beauty that is a Roman vs MS Paint graph.  

The majesty is there with solidworks, but the raw emotion has been lost.

Do better Dave xx

 

PS: Paint 3D will do.

Paint 3D dont you dare utter those words around here 

Blasphemy! 

I'm still a bit mad about the anti aliasing they've added TBH 

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they  was the last super tourers from england they had to use the std plenum but could use quads as well plus comp was stock at 12 to 1 in england and cams were free 

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Don't know the specifics on the j gearboxes, but a mate had an r154 out the other day, with a couple of issue hindering the shift quality. check the shift fork alignment on the selector shaft and also make sure there is no detent spring or detent pin trickery. Some times there are long and short detent pins/balls which could end up in the wrong place or no spring to retract the pin. 

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Yeah thankfully I've got the full manual now which spells it out, and I've also got a second gearbox that had noisy bearings which I've pulled down too. 

And labelled all the parts and put in boxes and bags. So I'll hopefully have enough of an idea for putting it back together. Looking forward to it. 

I remember ages ago looking at all the detents and shift forks and so on, having no bloody idea how any of it works. 
But feel a bit more confident now.

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Happy to do weldy things when you come over for beers and zorst chat.

Just mark up the location and what you want the mounts to look like and I’m sure we can make them with minimal effort and a few beers. 

And header mods easy as too just know how far you want the finish point to move. 

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I do love a good nerdy thread and your thread never fails to make me smile.

Just wondering though.. have you been tempted at all to just chop out that ugly bulkhead and move the engine even further back? So many positives..

Even better balance,

shorter exhaust and driveshaft gives you weight savings you can happily picture as you go to sleep. 

It will be extra work and I guess a re-cert if you want to be all official about it. But if you're in no major rush it would be a neat extra add on to your evolution of this car.

Hand brake might have to move back and I dont know where the gearstick is on these boxes- are they a long box and hence it would end up in a silly place, so making gearshifts awkward?

Hmmmmm. Just pondering...

Oh and re-reading back through your thread while having my coffee this morning and I wonder why not ditch the brake servo, fit appropriate pedal box (having fun working out leverage, bore diameters and drawing graphs to suit) and create a shit load of room right where you need it for improved trumpets?

You do really get used to the increased effort needed with no servo and the extra  feel is lovely.

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35 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

 

Haha cheers.

I am indeed fitting a pedal box for intake reasons :Dand ive had to cut the firewall a smidge to be able to get the motor in and out as it currently sits, although, hindsight maybe not necessary.

Yeah the gear shifter is quite far back on these but im getting a kit that moves it about 100mm forward.

This is definitely one of those situations where its the same effort to move it any amount back, so yeah im on same page with you about why not go as far as you can. But im currently getting real close for things like exhaust to firewall clearance. And I can currently still get the cam cover off, take the rear coilpack out, reach and undo starter motor bolts. And much further back and i start losing intake space again.

Bellhousing clearance is tight too and not keen on chopping all that out.

Its important to me to have a servicable car so not keen on stuffing the motor half way under the firewall, as cool as that always is! 

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So really, because it's a hatch back you should midmount the engine and 3d print a nifty engine cover. 

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Haha noooooo I ended up with this car to get away from a mid engined Toyota nightmare :clown:

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Those bits of progress are looking good @Roman

Will you have a metal bracket and bolts to hold the battery in place? For motorsport reasons. 

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Thanks. Yeah I have been thinking about that. just need to finalize where its going to go and what its going to sit on.

My understanding is you need two m8 rods holding it down with a bracket on top.

But is it okay for one side of the top bracket to bolt to the side of engine bay? Or do you need the two rods holding it down vertically?

Might need to make a new battery tray out of steel as well so its secure and has something decent to bolt to.

 

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They can be bolts and straps and can work on any plane as long as it meets the minimum requirements. 

Here's the relevant info for battery mounting: 

  1. Be mounted on a flat base, and
  2. Be securely retained by metal bracket / straps (insulated from the live terminal) that provide a positive location in all planes, attached with a minimum of four(4) M6 ISO 8.8 standard fixations or equivalent in combination with counter plates, or
  3. Alternatively, may be securely retained using a retention method that can be proven to withstand a force up to 25G.
 
And a new bit I didn't realise about Lithium batteries: 

Where Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) batteries are used as the main vehicle battery the following shall apply:

  1. The vehicle shall carry an external marking as detailed in Diagram 5.5 positioned adjacent to the competition number, and
  2. The battery must carry the appropriate disposal markings.

Note: Care must be exercised to ensure that no rapid charging or discharging of the battery can occur that could instigate exothermic reaction within the battery.

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