Roman Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Haha for sure. Some of the guys in street class have openly said that their cars are too delicate/stiffly sprung/etc to drive them long distance on the road at all. Trailered to and from events, wof and reg "street class" cars that only ever drive on track haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 thats what i do as well, incase any thing happens and you are 5hrs from home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 and thanks raize rfor putting that up for me to give dave penis envy lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Haha yeah sweet power now Glenn! Good rev range for powerband too. What else changed about the motor to get you over that 200kw mark? More compression? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Celica RA45 Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 more duration on the cams 356 advertised or 274 at 50 thou 540 thou lift... no vvti any more ,52mm quads, bigger extractors and 14.5 to 1 comp with a cnc ported head and bigger valves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Was your oil cooler fan on or off over the period shown on the graph? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 On the whole time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyscar Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Have you direction tested the fan? Also worth checking the calibration on the temp sensors. Ducting may help? its possible that at a certain speed you end up with a stagnant area in the front of the car with the engine bay behind? This is why HUUGE splitters are awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 1 hour ago, Rhyscar said: Have you direction tested the fan? Also worth checking the calibration on the temp sensors. A bit unlikely but I was thinking along the same line, swap the sensors over? Wouldn't radiation effects be low compared to the flow of oil over the sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Sounds like you need to add two more temp sensors to measure the air temperature before and after the cooler haha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Haha. Yeah fan blows in correct direction, when car is idling you can see it pulling stacks of heat out of the cooler and there's a 10 deg drop across the sensors. Instead of cooling system reacing saturation point and fan coming on, car stays at 87deg and fan never comes on. So it's definitely doing something, but I dont have any oil temp data from beforehand to compare to. The sensors are both brand new and using same cal table in the ECU, when car is first warming up they both read the same until there starts being a temp difference across the core. In order to fit my sensors (they are quite deep and bottom out in the AN fittings) I've had to use a 1/8th > 1/4 NPT fitting then a 1/4 > 1/8 NPT back again. So the tip of sensor is sitting in oil but they're not completely immersed so it's possible they're prone to heat soak from external sources. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 You have probably said somewhere but where is the fan pulling the air from? could the source be heating up the incoming air? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Mount your IR camera in the engine bay and do some laps? There are only 2 logical options right? - Fan is sucking air hotter than the oil temp and is turning it into an oil heater - Temp probes are not reading the true oil temp - Aliens/magnets I think putting a temp probe in the incoming air stream is a good idea. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 If my coolant is 94-95 deg and my oil is 110ish then even if the airflow was as hot as coolant it's still not going to heat the oil. I think it's each sensor having a different heatsoak/thermal latency in the housing they are in. (By which I mean... definitely aliens) One thing I've noticed with the oil cooler fitted though is consistently lower coolant temps, so I'll look through some old logs and see if engine was running any hotter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CorollaGT Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Man I would be happy as to see 110 degrees oil temp in January at Taupo. I saw 120 degrees (doing 10minute sessions in October) and that's with a 16 row Mocal oil cooler sitting in direct cold airflow and ducting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slacker.cam Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 19 hours ago, CorollaGT said: Man I would be happy as to see 110 degrees oil temp in January at Taupo. I saw 120 degrees (doing 10minute sessions in October) and that's with a 16 row Mocal oil cooler sitting in direct cold airflow and ducting. I get about the same in my 4AGE. Oil temp consistently (slowly) rises throughout an 8 lap race up to a maximum of about 120C. I run a Mocal cooler also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGealon Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Hello my name is Donnie and I am from the United States. I have been wanting to do a Beams Swap on my Ta63 Carina and if you don't mind can you please give me some info on it? I've always been a Honda guy and this is my first Toyota so it's a whole new world for me. Love your build! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I would say you need the cooler in the direct air path/ducted. You are pretty hard up it most of the time, and the fan can only pull air across the cooler at say 40kmh? At high rpm your oil pump is going to be moving a lot of oil volume x temperature is a lot of energy. How much delta t are you able to get with that fan using warm air? Are you able to put the cooler in one of the front corners with a thermostat on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 So many good feels in the last couple of posts Looking forward to seeing what changes you make to your tune with your new knowledge. I've always found your posts very interesting (if a little over my head at times). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelo. Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Well done, the new job sounds like an awesome change. I saw the post on FB advertising that job, it did look interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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