PAINT THREAD

[bubblegoose]

in ppg terms

1L ct black etch primer (one coat is all you need)

get a 5L 2k primer pack (might be 4L not sure) just the cheap one will be fine

thinners you can either buy seperate ones for each paint or ask them for a general purpose/blend thinners, i use this for primer, base, clear and gun cleaning does the chob

prolly 10l all up

if you are going metalic you will need clear aswell, the autothane range is what your after

3l base (min) and as much clear as you want (more coats more bling)

if your going solid colour just roll medium solids, the 1k acrylic is pretty good and damn cheap (range is called dulon) cant remember what there 2k is called, wont need clear with this

for a race car id say roll the 1k, lots quicker and more legal to do touch ups in your shed after an ote, you will need 3L to do the whole thing but may want to buy 4 or 5 for touch ups and re-do's

bog, most places sell evacoat stuff, the z-grip is the cheaper one and rage gold is more pricey but leaves less pin holes, if you are concerned about weight find a retailer for u-pol bogs they have a new range out and some seriously light bogs (using hollow plastic micro beads instead of glass)

wax and grease remover is cheap and you only need 5L if that

[Testament]

cheers man, that clears it up heeeeeaps

[bubblegoose]

and for fred reference

ALL base coat is 1k

if cunts put 2k clear over 2k base its because they tryed to use a cheap 2k colour and it turned to shit/cant get it glossy enough

^true storey

[KKtrips]

Anyone in Wellington that does paint perkys? I got a job for you...

[Simon]

Forgot rust inhibitor.

Get it and use it.

[bubblegoose]

Forgot rust inhibitor.

Get it and use it.

i like to spray zinc down all the seams then clean off the excess

gives me slight peace of mind

then after paint cavity way it to death

and go around all the seams again with wax oil ie. door shuts

[karmagedon]

What's the deal with basecoat colouring? For flat colours I read use darker version as base then lighter as topcoat. This stops the primer from showing through.

However I also heard that for candy colours they often use a silver or gold basecoat, I assume this would be to add some sort of shine?

So what would happen with a silver base and say a yellow topcoat? shiny yellow??

[cute wee gem]

and for fred reference

ALL base coat is 1k

if cunts put 2k clear over 2k base its because they tryed to use a cheap 2k colour and it turned to shit/cant get it glossy enough

^true storey

Or they put a pearl or candy over top.

[cute wee gem]

What's the deal with basecoat colouring? For flat colours I read use darker version as base then lighter as topcoat. This stops the primer from showing through.

However I also heard that for candy colours they often use a silver or gold basecoat, I assume this would be to add some sort of shine?

So what would happen with a silver base and say a yellow topcoat? shiny yellow??

Depends entirely on the paint, most metallic base coats I've used are a lot less transparent than solids, but then some solids are quite thick too.

Tinting your primer is also another option and probably cheaper?

[bubblegoose]

What's the deal with basecoat colouring? For flat colours I read use darker version as base then lighter as topcoat. This stops the primer from showing through.

However I also heard that for candy colours they often use a silver or gold basecoat, I assume this would be to add some sort of shine?

So what would happen with a silver base and say a yellow topcoat? shiny yellow??

Depends entirely on the paint, most metallic base coats I've used are a lot less transparent than solids, but then some solids are quite thick too.

Tinting your primer is also another option and probably cheaper?

tinted primers can also lure you into a false sense of security and then it drys and you realise you dont have a good solid coverage and have to do it again. if you can still see primer, put another coat on

[bubblegoose]

and for fred reference

ALL base coat is 1k

if cunts put 2k clear over 2k base its because they tryed to use a cheap 2k colour and it turned to shit/cant get it glossy enough

^true storey

Or they put a pearl or candy over top.

i wanst going to go into fancy multi stage pearls, but these can still be done over 1k base/i have

[kiwitina]

Just finished reading all 24 pages of this thread. What a novel. Had to space it out in to 4 stints just to allow the information to sink in...

I’ll be doing all the preparation work on my Cortina myself and then i’ll pay someone to do the colour. There will be a fair bit of time in between the priming stage and the paint stage so I can save some money for a decent paint job. This is ok as long as the primer gets smoothed back before paint right? I’ve read a bit elsewhere about primer sealer. Would I do this before the little hiatus or should that be done before the base coat goes on?

I’m blasting back to bare metal and will be using POR15 on the underside, floorpans and possibly the engine bay as it seems to have a good reputation. Do people ever POR15 their whole car? or is that a silly question?.

Great thread. Thanks to all the knowledgeable people who have contributed. Since when was painting such an artform anyway right???

[bubblegoose]

por 15 is just another rust inhibiting paint, most popular in the part of the world (comparable to hammerite)

doing the whole car would probably be a bad idea would take massive amounts of prep before paint.

primer sealer is a special primer to stop 2 paints reacting, you wont need this

leaving primer for a good amount of time before flatting and paint is good it will reduce the chance of sink back, but not too long as primer is not water proof and the metal beneath may start to rust

[kiwitina]

Thanks heaps man. Hopefully it wont be sitting for too long. Has anyone ever used this paint off trademe?http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Paint/auction-343015276.htm

Any good? Bought some paint stripper off them and it seems to do a good job.

[kiwitina]

Based upon what I have read. My 2c of the process should go something like this...Correct me and bounce your ideas if i’m being a noob.

Exterior Shell

Sandblasting - Whole car back to bare metal.

Bogging + Patching - Fill out any imperfections. Weld in patches and smooth out but not so smooth that the primer won’t bind.

Wipe down and remove dust + grease

Etch Priming - Red Oxide. Atleast a couple of coats. No sanding

Priming - Grey 2 coats. This can then be sanded smooth before basecoat. I have 4L of lacquer primer I want to use.

Underside, Floorpans, Possibly Engine bay

Sandblast back to bare metal

Wipe down and remove dust, dirt and grease.

Put down POR15. Use a brush on the harder to reach areas. atleast 2 coats

Use recommended Tiecoat Primer over the top.

Your thoughts and critiques please. Is there any problem using 2 different coloured primers on the exterior? I know bubblegoose, that you said I don’t have to worry about primer sealer but Im unsure about weather to use in between the 2 primers on the ext. Would there be any problems using different brands of primer etc. in between the ext. shell and floorpans?

Yeah I know...What an amateur.

[bubblegoose]

etch primer still needs to be sanded before normal primer

primer will be happy sitting on a surface prepped with 240 grit paper (or close to it)

DO NOT sand blast panels they will warp and make them scrap worthy

paint stripper works fine for a garage job, if your send it out have it soda blasted

i find black etch primer (EG; ppg CT ETCH) best as black shows up imperfections batter than a matt red oxide

this is the best time to leave it for a few days to dry then go over the car looking for scratch marks below the primer (normaly around your repairs)

block these out and then apply the next primer

after thats dry check again

only one coat of etch primer is needed as its main target is bare metal, but if you have left overs then use it

[bubblegoose]

primer sealer goes on over old paint to stop new paint melting it and causing a blistering/crackle like reaction

nothing like this will happen with primers

if you want to be double sure buy both the etch and top primer from the same supplier and ask them if they will react

[kiwitina]

brilliant bro. thanks for taking the time

[BlownCorona]

Thanks for all this, Incredibly useful as im planing on doing all the body work on my corona myself, got a paint and panel mate so he should be some small bit of help

[tregath]

I am slowly getting back into the escort, the body is going to take a while as I am still learning to weld, but i have the doors and boot lid finished, am i best to primer them and leave for another year, or paint them now? If im best tp paint it now what paint should i use?