cute wee gem Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 2k paints will run easier from my experience as they stay wet for ages. do your runs across the panels a bit faster and don't worry about orange peel so much if it's your first time painting, it's alot easier to cut and polish out than runs. You really need to concentrate on your clear coat when it comes to speed and overlap. It can turn to shit real fast. Just take your time and don't get all excited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 does basecoat have to be a 2k basecoat to 2k clear over the top???? Nup. normal base coats are a lot easier to spray than 2k which is why i favour them I guess, still being a novice it's what I would reccomend to anyone starting out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 ok so if im going to a paint shop what do i want to buy? Base Coat? Clearcoat? Hardner? Thinners? Etc etc Does it matter what type of Primer i lay down before the basecoat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Shouldn't matter what primer. I'd make sure it's all one colour though to be safe. Base coat Clear + hardener Thinners Wax and grease remover (and clean rags) Polishing compound? Burnout leaving the shop. Where you buying from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Shouldn't matter what primer. I'd make sure it's all one colour though to be safe.Base coat Clear + hardener Thinners Wax and grease remover (and clean rags) Polishing compound? Burnout leaving the shop. Where you buying from? Ahhh ok So get primer in the same color or mix some base coat with the primer? How much of each would i approx need? Why should i need polishing compound? Im going to go see the guys at altex paints as we do a quite a bit of work for them. So hopefully they should be able to hook me up. Im only going to do the outside of the car, no door jams, engine bay etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Shouldn't matter what primer. I'd make sure it's all one colour though to be safe. Ahhh ok So get primer in the same color or mix some base coat with the primer? I'm pretty sure he means just use 1 color primer all over, like don't have say white primer on some panels and dark grey on others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 After same advice. As I understand I do something similar to this: Remove rust/dents. 220ish sand to dull paint. Etch primer X amount of coats. High fill primer X amount of coats. 500ish block sand. Guide coat with tinted primer. Block sand again to find low spots. Fix lowspots with skimbog or something? Make primer sweet. 2 or 3 coats of 2k paint. More of clear. How wrong am I lol What products do you prefer for each stage tom? And what is the sweet underseal stuff you use, is it brush on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insani-T Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 I could be wrong, but I think you only need to use Etch Primer if you have any bare steel. If its already got paint on it, I am pretty sure you are safe just to use normal Primer to put over it. Pluse Etching Primer is expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Ahhh ok is it ok to etch prime the whole car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Ahhh ok is it ok to etch prime the whole car? Yes if you want. I wouldn't bother mind you unless you plan to bare metal the whole thing, if you only have small amounds of metal showing, filler primer/normal primer will be fine aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 After same advice.As I understand I do something similar to this: Remove rust/dents. 220ish sand to dull paint. Etch primer X amount of coats. High fill primer X amount of coats. 500ish block sand. Guide coat with tinted primer. Block sand again to find low spots. Fix lowspots with skimbog or something? Make primer sweet. 2 or 3 coats of 2k paint. More of clear. How wrong am I lol What products do you prefer for each stage tom? And what is the sweet underseal stuff you use, is it brush on? Depends on the car to start with. I assume you're talking about the new ke20? Since it's covered in primer it makes life a little more difficult, as dents are harder to find just by looking at the panels. Remove obvious dents/rust (use a hammer and dolly as much as you can, I seriously recommend buying a set if you plan to do more work) Block sand the car with 100g which may show up more dents, fix whatever you find. Prime with filler primer (or etch if you have large areas of bare metal) Block sand with 180g which will show up more dents, fix these then re-filler prime. (you can lay down a guide coat here if you like, I'd use black paint rather than tinted primer) block sand with 320g if you're confident it's fairly straight, this may show up more smaller dents, fix and repeat this step untill you're satisfied with it. Final prime then block sand main panels with 400g (don't go near the edges as you'll wear it to paint quick = primer again) then hand sand the rest. Paint. I usually do 2 coats on the door jams and 3-4 on the car. Then 3-4 coats of clear Products. I usually use K&H bog Used lots of primers and found them all to be pretty much the same Green masking tape or that yellow stuff. White masking tape is complete shit and will tear and make a mess when you try to pull it off. Get wide tape for door jams I prefer base coat with 2k clear as mentioned above, as for brands I've used all sorts, debeer, ppg, cobra and so on, all seem sweet. Misc stuff I've learnt/done. I always rough up with 80g before bog to make sure it stays there Never use plastic bags to wrap engine looms etc up with as it flakes off when hit by anything/compressed air during your final clear coat If you cut rust out use deoxidine (sp?) or por15 metal ready in behind your patch on sills etc Take your time and try not to rush shit, it never pays off (should have spent another 5-10 hours on the Gem I just done tbh) Clean your space before painting and run compressed air everywhere including door handles and especially masking as dust can get trapped and suddenly come out when you brush past it with your gun. Wax and grease remove before painting If using a pearl do the car with all the panels on it at once. as you may get an uneven coat if not mixed with the base coat Had more to add but slipped my mind That was probably more than you wanted to know/got a bit carried away. But that's how I've learnt to do it over the last 5 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 How much of each product should i need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 For a car your size 3.5l would do your whole car incl engine bay and jams I'd use most of a 4l tin of primer 3l clear (shop will give you enough hardener for mixing) thinner to suit mixing ratios + plenty to clean up gun. (i buy massive containers of it) I buy 4l bog tins but will last me a few cars. depends on how straight it is i guess, start with a 1l tin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 so do you let the base coat dry for a couple of days, and then spray the 2k clear straight on. do you need to colour sand the base coat first etc etc etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Nope, always cleared straight afterward due to having a dusty and drafty shed. Never left it sit so i'm not sure about colour sanding. If you're doing it straight away then no, spray straight over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 I was under the impression that the 2k clear was incompatible with the 1k basecoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Definitely compatible man, done it a few times now. edit: use two way thinners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 cheers man. that sounds like the go to me. will do a few test panels first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Cheers for that tom, will give it a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Just went to Link Up paint Supplies a couple of doors down from us to price some paint. I said i wanted A base Coat, Clear, hardener, Thinners etc. And its going to be like $600 But just doing it in a 2Pack is going to be around $240 Incl Gst Is the Saving worth it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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