mixmasterlex Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Did my car in 2pack and it came up pretty well. Paint is now a couple of years old... But car has still not seen weather yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 Did my car in 2pack and it came up pretty well. Paint is now a couple of years old... But car has still not seen weather yet When my last trump was painted it was sone in 2 Pack but it was dun at a paint shop, i might get them to do it again. Was cheap as fuck. Gunna go see them Tuesday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 Dropped my car to my mates this morning. He got onto the bogging, and started to block the rear of the car down which was good but he didn't get much done bogging wise. So when i got there i got him back on track and told him to not worry about what others are telling him as most of the body is pretty straight. And we will block it before it gets sprayed. Any how i got onto the Sanding with the FESTOOL sander which if anyone has used one they are awesome. Took off the last of the stainless Trim and got the front quater panels sanded down ready to block out a bit but they are pretty straight, sanded the bonet down, roof and 2 doors. Just gota do all the tight places i carn't get with the sander. Shes pretty multi coloured but it was good progress. With any Scratches or places where paint had been chipped down to the steel i jjust sanded down the paint till it was a good sized cirlce and sanded the paint around it flat. Should come up sweet. Hopefully will get the Driver doors and front end done tomorrow arvo ready for primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzsubbie Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Im going to practist doing some painting on my ute. The undercoat i was going to use was in a spraycan. Is the sandable primer from plasti-kote any good to use? also whats the procedure on how to paint racing stripes on over top over the top coat? like this in this pic.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewGuy Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Im going to practist doing some painting on my ute.The undercoat i was going to use was in a spraycan. Is the sandable primer from plasti-kote any good to use? also whats the procedure on how to paint racing stripes on over top over the top coat? like this in this pic.. I have found plasti-kote pretty crappy, would be better off finding someone with a compressor and gun and getting some decent primer on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzsubbie Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Ive got a compressor just dont have the spray gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Hardstyle Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 have just fioonished reading through 22 pages of this paint thread, and dam wata read. am in the stages of sanding down my car, and after that whole read i think its easier to go OS 1k primer on this. me and a mate have already done 2 newer cars in spray can primer....fun fun. Have a mate that has a compressor we can use, but we tried this before, and surprisingly our spray can job came out better than the compressor, friend ended up with zebra looking lines in his bonnet I am not doing a bare metal strip, just the exterior for now as i have a few bubbles on the doors and the colour isnt what i want. Best to lay down about 3 layers of primer? and where would i go to get a custom paint made up? any paint shop/bunnings? looking for a white with a black pearl/sparkle in it, still deciding. but atm its just getting the shine sanded off it and getting primered. So should i use the friends compressor for the primer, or stick with our spray can job? Also looking for the brush on underseal stuff, once i have the underside of my car checked/rust cut out and welded, i want to put that all on the underside to stop it for good, any ideas where to get this from? Again would going to bunnings/supercheap/repco have them? Cheers, Mad thread, fully good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 just painted 260c up in metallic lacquer, not sure on how long i should leave it to harden before putting rear window and tail lights and so on back in? Drying time is 60mins on the data sheet but obviously will take a while to get decent hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 at least 3 days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 lol when I sprayed my wagon I was putting lights and shit on like 3 hrs after I sprayed it. Just dont bump any of the panels and be careful as fuck as to how you take the masking off. I couldnt wait 3 days haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 haha - yea can do it as soon as its touch dry if you really wanted 3 days is generally the best time to cut and polish/wet sand a new paint job before it gets too hard - takes about a month for paint to be fully set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock-Lee Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 ^ i was told not to touch paint with buffer etc until a month. Like the dude made a big deal about not cut and polishing for at least 30 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insani-T Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 Last car I saw my brother paint for a guy. He told him to leave for 24 hours before he took the masking off etc. He is a car painter but that one was done on the cheap in a garage. So put the heaters on and leave for 24hours I reckon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 i think its easier to go OS 1k primer on this. personally i wouldn't 2 part primers are harder, and much nicer/easier to flat back before top coats there not harder to apply either, most primers are 4-1 primer-hardener and have a few hours of pot life (time to get it mixed and applied) so its just as simple as a single pack kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 also whats the procedure on how to paint racing stripes on over top over the top coat? like this in this pic.. paint car, clear coat car, flat car with 800-1000, paint stripes, clear coat agian (multiply clear coats depending on budget ) flat and polish car, be da pimp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 ^ i was told not to touch paint with buffer etc until a month. Like the dude made a big deal about not cut and polishing for at least 30 days. this is partly true - but its more work when its fully hard just be careful not to wear through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 ^ i was told not to touch paint with buffer etc until a month. Like the dude made a big deal about not cut and polishing for at least 30 days. you will find most paint shop cut and buff the fresh paint a few hours after it leaves the booth like torton said just be careful, the softer paint heats up quicker/makes you cry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 I've just painted a mates motor bike tank in some marine enamel stuff he gave me, but theres some orange peel, should i wet sand then cut n polish? or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 I've just painted a mates motor bike tank in some marine enamel stuff he gave me, but theres some orange peel, should i wet sand then cut n polish? or what? 1500 wet sand, (then if you want to you can use a 3000 grit trizac pad here i always do) then machine polish with G3 or similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 i think its easier to go OS 1k primer on this. personally i wouldn't 2 part primers are harder, and much nicer/easier to flat back before top coats there not harder to apply either, most primers are 4-1 primer-hardener and have a few hours of pot life (time to get it mixed and applied) so its just as simple as a single pack kit does 2 pack kill you unless you have a full on darth vader face setup - or are those 3m mask things with the two filters all you need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.