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PAINT THREAD


dylan

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26 minutes ago, Metalhead96 said:

Ages ago I saw someone selling or bringing in krylon metal flake spray paint. 

Is that sort of stuff available anywhere in nz at all? Or whats the process involved with doing metal flake paint from a gun. Throw glitter at wet paint? Lol

I sprayed some Roth flake on the Morris Oxford roof, just mixed with clear and used one of the guns I already had iirc. Worked OK

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Been bringing in pigment powders from aliexpress and mixing my own colours just using good quality clear to mix it into cheap as and turns out really good with a few coats over a base colour like black or white.

Going to experiment on some bike bits soon 90s low rider spec.

 

 

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I've had cars with two of the variants, paint shops will often mix up a newer variant from like 1997. If you get them to spectro a sample from the car for some reason the computer correctly identifies it as 033 and pumps out the recipe for the correct variant

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I've been using mineral turpentine to remove spray on underseal and old contact adhesive. It's the most effective and cheap solvent I have found that does the job, doesn't evaporate super fast but when it does evaporate, it doesn't seem to leave a residue.

Can I paint epotec 408 where I have cleaned up with the turpentine? Or do I need to also use a wax a grease remover?

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I have done my ute (metallic light gold/tan) blending basecoat and clear over. I just keyed the existing clear say 30cm out from the edge of the repaie, sprayed the basecoat, lighter at the edge than closer to the repair. Then did the same again with the clear, going out a little further and just barely getting some on at the edge. It all melted together, I didn't do any cutting to get it a smooth transition. 

Blend it out to a body line if possible, makes it easier to hide the metallic laying slightly differently

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On 10/10/2022 at 09:34, Adoom said:

I've been using mineral turpentine to remove spray on underseal and old contact adhesive. It's the most effective and cheap solvent I have found that does the job, doesn't evaporate super fast but when it does evaporate, it doesn't seem to leave a residue.

Can I paint epotec 408 where I have cleaned up with the turpentine? Or do I need to also use a wax a grease remover?

I use epotec over everything. In saying that I tack with grease and wax remover as a rule anyway. 

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Do I need to use one of those paint filter things when filling the gun when spraying epotec?

I have mixing cups.

And I've ordered an iwata gun with 1.3 and 1.8mm nozzle. And 5L of 2k 'normal' thinners. I assume I use the same thinners for cleaning the gun.

I've still got to get one of those inline water traps that goes just before the gun.

What have I forgotten?

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You can use the thinners to clean, but it's cheaper to get gunwash which is less quality thinner. I use heaps to flush and clean. But if it's a one off sort of thing and you happen to have thinner left over go ahead

 

I use the pour over paint filters, only ever caught something once when I was using the dregs of some high build primer, could live without. But.... It is pretty lame when something blocks the nozzle and then you spray a bunch of lumps all over your panel

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On 14/10/2022 at 16:28, Adoom said:

Do I need to use one of those paint filter things when filling the gun when spraying epotec?

I have mixing cups.

And I've ordered an iwata gun with 1.3 and 1.8mm nozzle. And 5L of 2k 'normal' thinners. I assume I use the same thinners for cleaning the gun.

I've still got to get one of those inline water traps that goes just before the gun.

What have I forgotten?

 

I just drain my tank before/after using and run the air line over a rafter. No idea if it works but I've had a couple of water traps which eventually leaked air which was annoying. 

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6 minutes ago, dmulally said:

 

I just drain my tank before/after using and run the air line over a rafter. No idea if it works but I've had a couple of water traps which eventually leaked air which was annoying. 

My trap was right at the compressor, but it didn't work so well. I think the air needs a chance to cool so the water condenses into droplets large enough for the filter to get them. I'll try it closer to the gun.

My pipes do already go up to the roof and down now, since I got one of those self retracting reels.

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8 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Got a small rust clean up to do on chassis area where battery had tipped over on previous owner. Figure ill just wire wheel/deoxidine just curious if the single pack chassis paints are good value or if its still worth epoxying it and going about it like a panel repair

Cheers

Is the vehicle a keeper or a seller?

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Do you guys use primer gun or base gun for doing sealer/surfacing? 

Dumb question, but I'm in a bit of a pickle - I have a devilbiss gun with a 1.3 and 1.4 tip and a cheaper ANI F1 primer gun with a 1.5 and 2.0 tip. 

All good to use the 1.5 tip? What do you guys recommend for pressure/gun speed etc. Never done sealing before but gonna practice on a few rubbish panels I have kicking about. 

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