bubblegoose Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Also orange peel is usually due to not spraying enough paint for the air you are using, either turn down your air screw or adjust the needle stop if you have wound it in. Hope that helps. thats dry peel (looks like inverted sand paper), the other orange peel (looks like a golf ball) is from under thinned paint or not allowing adequate flash off time between coats and also too many coats most needles (HVLP guns) need to be wound out 2.5 to 2.75 turns, air screw set to max but pressure regulated to what ever it says on the paints tech data sheet (normally 30 to 60psi) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I was spraying at 100psi so that's not a good start haha I sure do have a lot more appreciation for car painters after giving it a go my self, the whole time your just thinking 'one mistake could ruin the whole thing' ive finished buffing it this weekend and it came out pretty nice for my first car and at a cost of $400, will post some pics for those interested in what have be achieved by relatively inexperienced people with cheap gear. ive helped a friend paint a couple cars so picked up a lot of the basics, but that's all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I'm looking at painting the engine bay in the datsun and dont want to clear coat, so what paint do I want to get hold of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Matthew Black 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Matching your factory paint Beaver? could use some cheap acrylic lacquer, or a single stage 2 pac paint. 2 pac is newer paint tech and is much harder, will be pretty glossy/bling compared to your stocker paint, may be able to flatten it out abit though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 yeh colour match, not really bothered if its too shiny/its under the hood anyway, just whatever goes on the easiest I guess and has a higher chance of not being shit! haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Go 2k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I would say base clear is easier to spray, but be a it can be a mission in terms of how many coats you need to put on. I vote 2k as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 depends on the brand. mipa 2k is pretty fool proof but metalux 2k requires a shit ton of practice to get a good finish without it looking like a waterfall of paint (both cheap brands suitable for engine bay use) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Good underseal to use on underside of car??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 ^^ depends on the finish you want, i used that poverty spec generic under body sealer which comes in a yellow tin, it applies and adheres well with a short stiff bristled brush, and is durable but does not give a flashy show finish if that's what you are after. (kind of has a tar-like look to it) I am having issues with 2 pot acrathane (resene) I have been buying satin black but when applied it seems to be drying to more of a super gloss. I have fiddled with thinning percentage, and air pressures etc.. with only minor improvements to reduction in gloss level. It's not of a major concern as it's only for suspension bits and brackets etc but still keen to try and understand what i am doing wrong?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 You are doing nothing wrong the paint just wont be very satin thats all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 just for the underside of the morry.....so doesnt need to be flash.....do you need to put some rust treatment shit down or does the underseal have that built in?/i dont know what im talking about..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 I am having issues with 2 pot acrathane (resene) I have been buying satin black but when applied it seems to be drying to more of a super gloss. I have fiddled with thinning percentage, and air pressures etc.. with only minor improvements to reduction in gloss level. It's not of a major concern as it's only for suspension bits and brackets etc but still keen to try and understand what i am doing wrong?? sometimes matt and satin paints require baking to bring out the desired finish, im not sure how big of an area you are painting but if its small enough you could sit a double hallogen work lamp about 1m away from the panel for half an hour (about 5 mins after painting) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 just for the underside of the morry.....so doesnt need to be flash.....do you need to put some rust treatment shit down or does the underseal have that built in?/i dont know what im talking about..... prep the under side with a coarse scotch pad and some phosphoric acid (rust remover) follow destructions on the bottle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 ^^ depends on the finish you want, i used that poverty spec generic under body sealer which comes in a yellow tin, it applies and adheres well with a short stiff bristled brush, and is durable but does not give a flashy show finish if that's what you are after. (kind of has a tar-like look to it) I am having issues with 2 pot acrathane (resene) I have been buying satin black but when applied it seems to be drying to more of a super gloss. I have fiddled with thinning percentage, and air pressures etc.. with only minor improvements to reduction in gloss level. It's not of a major concern as it's only for suspension bits and brackets etc but still keen to try and understand what i am doing wrong?? Satins need a fucking good shake up as the matting agent settles out pretty quick. ON THAT NOTE, Anyone wanna share a reason why I shouldn't use 2k satin black epoxy primer as a top coat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 No reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Satins need a fucking good shake up as the matting agent settles out pretty quick. interesting, maybe i was a bit slack on the mixing.. Might have to give it a real workout before my next attempt.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 Satins need a fucking good shake up as the matting agent settles out pretty quick. ON THAT NOTE, Anyone wanna share a reason why I shouldn't use 2k satin black epoxy primer as a top coat? i thought primers wernt waterproof, are porus or something, and would lead to rusting if not topcoat is applied??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 You need to read more of this long and contradicting thread haha. Epoxy primer is fine in water, people paint panels in it and leave them outside for ages. Its oldschool single stage primers and 'etch' primers that fuck out if you leave them sitting around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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