MRWEST Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Whats teh best/easiest stuff to paint a chassis with. Sandblasted and expoxied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Most epoxy primers say they will coat over enamel on the data sheets, but they allways say to test before encase of frying etc. If you want to keep the car for a long time and the old paint job is that shit I would delete it ok and so bar stripping it the only other way is to sand the fuck out of it huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 invest in an electric DA sander with a vac attachment and buy a crappy vac from the supershed etc save you 1000 hours of cleaning up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriscross Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 this^, new paint will only stick aswell as whats under it. But if you decide not to remove it all you can do your repair work as normal then before paint use a product like PPG DP4000 as a wet on wet primer sealer, and if you run out of time it can be painted over upto 5 days later without having to sand it back be careful with dp4000 az it doznt sick to bare matel,dp40 doz and its cheaper. put any 2k sealer or primer over enamel is a no no az 2k sealers and pimers dry hard az rocks, enamel drys alot softer than 2k. so it may crazy crack over time. think ppg change the times to 2 to 3 days now before having to sand before painting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 dp4000 is still an etch primer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriscross Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 yeah i know what your saying, etch is a primer that sticks to matel tho. dp4000 is made for new panels and is more of a sealer,sufacer, for wet on wet jobs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 well yeah completly the wrong product for priming a paint stripped panel as it never really dries but is an etch primer that will adhere to decent sized rub troughs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 so fiberglass.... whats best to lay on that before paint, the story is my roof had a few dings along one side so ive put fiberglass on, i will work that back then get the height correct with a slight skim of bog, any paint layers needed between the fiberglass and the bog? do they react with moisture etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 ok am going to get some 2k flat black instead of using the satin laquer stuff i have, its a bit glossy. who makes a flat black thats easy to use, with NO gloss. dont want to do a base/clear, bubblegewse mentioned Mipa? is good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 MIPA, the one and only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Yea if Bubblegoose says its legit I would roll it. I flattened out some cheap 2k for my engine bits and pieces and it came out awesome, but yea for the outside of a car i would use a ready made product all day if it was available Don't think you can ship this to NZ (someone may bring it in) but TCP has a range of pre flattened 2K urethane paint which is awesome. Got some coming over for a mates project, be ages before its done but I'll chuck up results http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx I would be super keen to have a go with the flat pearls or metallics but it wont really suit the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 For the escort just added flatening base to off the shelf 1k and no clear. Clears not actually required to seal Shelf life of the stuff is limited FYI My paintjob is shit but thats from user prep CBF error, if surface was better would have been minter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 flattening base to a 1k top coat or base coat? matting base is sometimes used in base coats to help get even coverage but base is matt/satin by on its own adding matting agent to a 2k top coat will do look and last just the same as a premade matt paint but will be more transparrent and take more coats to cover ie 2 coats of mipa flat black covers the same as 3/4 coats of a heavily matted 2k gloss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 so fiberglass.... whats best to lay on that before paint, the story is my roof had a few dings along one side so ive put fiberglass on, i will work that back then get the height correct with a slight skim of bog, any paint layers needed between the fiberglass and the bog? do they react with moisture etc... anyone no this? bog straight on or paint between fiberglass and bog? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 by fibre glass do you mean fibre bog? either way bog right over it (after sanding and cleaning off dust) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 its proper fiberglass, i have to sand it back a bit, real nasty stuff.. gets in every where, will bog straight on it, just was worried it may lift if moisture got between the layers kinda like metal and bog... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Where is a good place to buy paint around the Shore/Auckland if you don't have access to a trade account? Much of a muchness? Just got a Devilbiss Starting Line kit and pretty keen to start spraying some shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 this one will be for the clued up ones on painting.i got given a tin of international paints "interthane 990",ex army spec green.what i cant find is what type of paint it is.its very old so could be enamel,but i have no idea.any of you knowledgeable gentlemen able to help me out?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS 2 THE DEEE Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I used to sell a lot of international its a good quality marine paint... interthane is a 2k polyurethane so a good gloss topcoat. Can be quite expensive so a good score.... do you have the hardener as well? heres data sheet on it http://www.international-pc.com/PDS/2484+P+eng+A4.pdf chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I used to sell a lot of international its a good quality marine paint... interthane is a 2k polyurethane so a good gloss topcoat. Can be quite expensive so a good score.... do you have the hardener as well? heres data sheet on it http://www.internati...84 P eng A4.pdf chur unfortunately i dont,any ideas where i might be able to get it??and cheers for the help,good to know its not old enamel or some shit,lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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