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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Legally, if he didnt know then I dont think its his fault. If he knew and is playing dumb then you may have a foot to stand on.

 

For the sake of $500 for cert (assuming nothing major needs doing) it might not be worth it.....

 

another option might be go back to the place that gave it a wof and talk to them, they should not have issued it a wof

 

edit; assuming the wof is new- it is not uncommon for unscrupulous sorts to get a wof and then do engine swap then sell saying its legit

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Hi Clintasaurus (and others),

 

I am looking at some coilovers to solve my suspension woes on my Cima, I can only source them from Japan but thats another issue.

 

2 questions:

I hear a lot of kafuffel about welding on struts however all the ones I am looking at (mostly "JIC" brand) seem to have some kind of mount welded to the side, example:

450x600-2013041900003.jpg

 

 

Not the best pic but hard to find a better one, you can see a funny thingy welded to the bottom of the right hand strut.

 

Is this Legal/Certable if it is "factory constructed" like that?

 

 

Also, because I am dutch I will probably buy 2nd hand ones. Is there a problem with getting a generic coil-over certified, or do I need factory specs or other information on the make/model of the coil-overs?

 

Your pal,

Turkey

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My viva has no front bumper, grill or head lamp surronds and has a big oil cooler on the front. From what i read in section 2-1 of LVVTA LVV Cert Threshold because it was first registered well before 1999 it does not need to comply with frontal impact occupant protection standard and so i do not need a cert for having these things removed. Correct?

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As long there is nothing that could be considered a 'pedestrian trap' (ie any way a person could get stuck in your grill if you run them over) you are probably fine.

I'll do some practical testing and get back to you.

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Hi Clintasaurus (and others),

 

I am looking at some coilovers to solve my suspension woes on my Cima, I can only source them from Japan but thats another issue.

 

2 questions:

I hear a lot of kafuffel about welding on struts however all the ones I am looking at (mostly "JIC" brand) seem to have some kind of mount welded to the side, example:

450x600-2013041900003.jpg

 

 

Not the best pic but hard to find a better one, you can see a funny thingy welded to the bottom of the right hand strut.

 

Is this Legal/Certable if it is "factory constructed" like that?

 

 

Also, because I am dutch I will probably buy 2nd hand ones. Is there a problem with getting a generic coil-over certified, or do I need factory specs or other information on the make/model of the coil-overs?

 

Your pal,

Turkey

 The welding on a strut that is a problem is when there is cast or forged bits welded to mild steel, that is the issue. the bit that you can see there- sway bar link bracket- is fine. however it looks like the hub might be welded to the strut tube, which is a no go.

 

currently even brand name struts that are aftermarket, that have welding to cast incorporated in the design, cant be certified.

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2012_Welded_Aftermarket_Suspension_Struts.pdf

 

second hand struts can quite often turn into an expensive drama, especially if its an odd brand that there is no parts support for here. if i had a dollar for every time ive had a look at a car where someone had got a mean deal on some second hand leaky old "adjustyz" with play in the shock shafts and missing bumpstops and incorrect spring rates, id have enough money to buy a whole block of cheese.  i guess if you have a car thats not easy to get bits for then you have to take that risk, but be prepared for the possibility to have to spend some $ on them. have had a few customers spend $400 a corner to rebuild Tein struts

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also, that was my nickname at work when i was an apprentice. BLAST FROM THE PAST

Well, if I had to pick between that and Clintaris then I would probably pick Clintasaurus :P

 

 

So anyway. Mucho thankso for your advice.

 

Just so I can clarify this situation here are a bunch of pics of the coilovers below (I went a bit overboard).

Pretty much if where I have marked is welded, then it is a no-go on NZ roads? Which kinda sucks cause thats how they all look to be done, (im not sure how else you could do it).

 

9pg.png

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i know its been discussed already as to what does and doesnt need driveshaft hoops,but anyway,to my question:im about to convert a factory 2.5 v6 auto Non turbo Legnum to a twin turbo VR4 auto 4wd,do i need to fit driveshaft hoops for it to pass cert or will it be ok as its using all OEM parts(have the complete vr4 for the conversion)???

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do this then? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/29494-spraks-e21-315/

(about half way down)

Cool. Yeah I guess that was an option. I have to have a good look at the factory struts though to see if its even possible.

 

Thing is, I dont really care about the adjustable part of the equation. I just want some replacement shocks that arent hydraulic, but the only stuff I can find for my particular model of vehicle is aftermarket coil-overs.

So if I were to mod the shocks with some other "non adjustable" shocks, i'd still need a cert right? (cause they arent OEM replacements)

 

The whole thing just sucks and is too complicated :P

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i know its been discussed already as to what does and doesnt need driveshaft hoops,but anyway,to my question:im about to convert a factory 2.5 v6 auto Non turbo Legnum to a twin turbo VR4 auto 4wd,do i need to fit driveshaft hoops for it to pass cert or will it be ok as its using all OEM parts(have the complete vr4 for the conversion)???

Just sell it and buy a actual VR4 and save yourself a lot of agrovation

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