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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/16/13 in all areas

  1. doors aligned and the front guards are back on for the final time (i hope). i had to paint the little tags that clamp the guards to the bottom of the A pillar because i forgot about it. the bonnet is just sitting there to see if the gaps look right between the front guards and the bonnet and it looks pretty good. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr still plenty to do yet. sheepers.
    4 points
  2. rather good nana spec condition. plan on using my efi gear thats just chilling in a box back in nz. enjoy
    3 points
  3. making new ali exhaust. isn't pretty and stink phone pics. but thats not the point its 2" tube with 45mm (was spose to be 50mm but had a mare) flat welded down the center. which works out around 3" ish. rather than making mufflers/reso's then welding it in place. i made the whole system then are putting reso's where they will fit. drilling all these holes was extremely boring. outside of muffler started. reused the slip joint that was on the rear muffler. to change from stainless to ali. this is thick wall.
    3 points
  4. Made this cast intake manafold adaptor a wile ago for an old ford, made the mold from roofing silicone and plaster, then slip cast the wax mold and did the fire proof mold around that using plaster and molochite mix, used beer cans old pistons and one of those aluminium security grills for the aluminium. Cast a few stupid shifter knobs and shit to
    2 points
  5. Purchased this bad boy the other day, super stoked with it 12a turbo freshly rebuilt running 5 psi factory boost LSD 5 speed Recently been painted creamy white Will upload some better pics soon I am in a delima ATM with wheels I have to put on possibly Ssr mk2 13x6.5/7s Performance mini lites 14x6 And these 15s came with the car Or just leave it standard ? My first rotary so any tips n tricks would be helpfull
    2 points
  6. In fact its actively encouraged. Diesel is way more awesome than petrol.
    2 points
  7. Discussion thread > //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/32064-ta63-carina-with-a-twist-discussion/#comment-849236 am not much good at taking pictures and making a huge write up , so just made this instead ta63 carina, 1uz + charger, manual w58, trd 2way diff , link ecu to come next week started this build about 3 weeks ago, am just up to the mount making bit, still allot to do but the work list is getting smaller and smaller each week. Hard bit is going to be saving for paint, am keen to do the rest of the build in the garage any way check it out .
    1 point
  8. I have a home made furnace and home made LPG burner, my crucible is steel pipe, I would be keen to see your induction furnace
    1 point
  9. Stop! Viva time. All is pretty happy in Viva world right now. Since having passed its cert and becoming fully road legal again I have cocked up many miles in it. Its running really well but with heaps of room for improvement. The current fuel table is 12 x 12 and the engine parameters ie rev range x load range on the base table don't cover the full range I actually use the engine. The rev range for example only goes up to 6000. Peak vacuum is actually below the lowest figure on the table. So at really slow idle, cold with lights on etc it can drop off the table. So I need to create a 16 x 16 table so I can tune these extremes but still have plenty of cells in the midrange commonly seen areas on the table. I have not yet even touched the ignition table where I think I can get even smoother running and efficiency. It certainly has more punch to come in the midrange. I am awaiting a new serial to usb convertor cable from the UK. My new laptop is running windows 8 and it wont always locate the ecu. I looked it up on google and it seems many people having the same problem with all sorts of devices using serial cable convertors with W8. So for future reference the best chipset to use for a convertor cable is the FTDI chipset. Avoid prolific chipsets- the cheaper usb to serial cables out there use these or clones. No good on windows 7 or 8. Now the main reason for the rotary being swapped out was economy. How's that going then eh?.. well really good actually, thanks for asking. In fact we have not seen worse than 25mpg (11L/100km) and is averaging over 30 mpg (9.4/100) for mixture of town and open road, spirited driving. On long runs its an easy 35mpg (8L/100). These figures will all be improved on too- it runs rich on over run in places and ignition can be advanced in most places. All just fine tuning the map once I create the new 16 x 16 table. when I get my cable. I love driving it. So easy and smooth. I have not grown tired of the V6 sound at all. In fact its so lush I tend to drive the car much faster than I used to. So other than just driving it what else have I done. Not a lot. I have actually been a bit lazy now its all go and often find it hard to make time to sort out the little things. Jobs that are easy, maybe fiddly, but simple things which can really make a difference to daily driving. One job I have done which I have been intending to do for many years was this... horrible dried up, broken and sharp side window weather strips. I had bought some universal ones from Basis in Renwick ages ago. But When I removed one of the old ones I discovered that the Viva has really odd deep strips, moulded to clear the rivets holding the door chrome. Bugger! but luckily Rare spares stock the proper seals moulded to suit the HB,LC,LJ Toranas- which share the same doors. Well that's nice isn't it. So I ordered some and they fitted perfectly. See.... While I was at it I dried out a door card that had weirdly got damp- maybe the very heavy rain we had and terrible door seals. Of course even after clamping the card straight it has still dried to a wobble. Damn! I have also 'fixed' my damp carpet problem. When ever it rains hard the carpets would get wet. I have looked several times still cant locate the exact entry point of the water. Somewhere in he heater channel there is some seam sealer lifting or something. But I can locate where the water dribbles out from the A pillar base, pools and then overflows into the carpet. So I drilled some holes and now the water flows into the sill and drains straight out the drain holes. So no more wet carpets * The leaks had been wetting the seam between the inner sill and floor pressing. Luckily after cleaning out all the old seam sealer I only discovered a teeny bit of rust just on the edge of a lip. Cleaned, sanded the areas up and neutralised it all. I like it when I catch rust sneaking away. While replacing the lower balljoint for the cert I discovered that the inner bushes in the front upper wishbones are stuffed. very perished and sloppy. This will totally explain the squirmmyness that I get in the front end under heavy braking on rougher roads. lots of movement going on where it shouldn't be. I need to research a bit on which bushes to fit. polyurethane or oem rubber. I have heard a few bad things about the poly items not working well in the front. Or not lasting well. I tried my torana gauge unit I bought on Trademe. almost fits but too tall and would require some hefty dash cutting to fit it. I'd rather not so will instead make a new dash layout to my own design. here's the space I have to work with. Note the huuuuuge amount of wiring going on. Pretty techy car. Righto. That's all off my chest I can get on with chilling out on this rainy winters evening *Its a British car. Its always going to leak and the carpets will always be damp.
    1 point
  10. How do you make Lada really low? The answer to this question is quite simple. The first way - the easiest. Just cut off a couple of turns of the springs and put the rubber below. Our guys usually put rubber from Daewoo Matiz, it size 155/65, thus permitted to several problems at once - it does not touch the wheel arches, and the car is lower by a couple of inches But one thing needs to be done immediately - adjustable Panhard bar. Because when understating bridge leads to the right. When a radical understatement need to digest the propeller shaft tunnel, as it will hit the body. Just do not forget that with the front levers will need to cut the excess metal (just to avoid its contact with the body). Later will be photo
    1 point
  11. I know ...........bless his homosexual heart
    1 point
  12. As a little side project I have been working on making some new bonnet hinges. The original ones suck, the bushing bolts into the hood, then you have to slide the hinge in, and bolt the hinges to the car with the hood in place. I was going to have to make new ones anyway cos I've only got one. So I sorted this lot out And now I can bolt the plates in, and then put the hood on with the quick release pins. Easy. So now for the first time in my ownership it has a bonnet [/url] I've got alot of work to do to get the panel gaps how I'd like. But I'll get there. So with the bonnet on, I realised that I have never ever seen this car with all the panels on. So I got a bit carried away and bolted some other bits on just for shits. *Shudder* (Shit pic) So yeah, totally at the same stage as sheepers EDIT: Ah shit those pics are terrible once they are big. I'll try and remember to take my camera next time!
    1 point
  13. Almost done, just gotta do the collector and final welds.
    1 point
  14. Yes even if they seal perfect pressure will still push them open past a point. Depends on the float setup how hard they close the needle. Strange indeed that it just fucked out! Dunno man test the needles and try the tee piece? Get a GC off here to help, Internet diagnosis is hard/ jack your car up lol
    1 point
  15. ok, more pics, got the fridge in, ended up buying another fridge as the heater part had rusted away, but go exact same fridge for quite cheap so all good then set about wall papering the roof, then pulled the doors off to do the wiring for the back lights and pipe work, there will be a gas manifold under the center cupboard to isolate all the appliances individually then drank a beer then today started on the carpet for the walls and fitting and connecting the guages and did a test fire up of the inverter after wiring the input and output 230, (6mm2) and the battery links (50mm2) yeah thats it, im currently doing the switch boards and associated wiring and drinking beer, apparently the best ale in the world i think not, left me feeling a bit fuzzy, beer isnt supposed to be 8.5% ok tasting but too high in alcohol you can really taste it, nice try though,
    1 point
  16. Hey guys, so I thought i'd make a build thread/ project updater for my ke35 coupe. ( second time its been reshelled ) Discussion here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38823-gostlys-ke35-discussion/ At the mo: 1979 Ke35 Corolla Blue top big-port 4AG 45mm Twin Dellortos 6AL MSD unit ( currently running the 8,000 rev chip ) 22 Spline T50 Coby extractors Custom driveshaft T series diff - 1420mm wide, currently with a 4.1:1 diff - I think 3 Piece Gallop Racing Mesh wheels. 14x6.5 and 14x7 Hydraulic clutch Jamex red reclinable seat - stick out like dog balls. OLD COFFEE BEAN SACKS on the rear seats. Smells like coffee. Cut up/ modified Luggage rack What I'm looking at doing as time passes by: Either completely rebuild the 16v and further spice up the old girl, OR 16V 7AGE with the carbs. Close ratio gearbox - instead of the crappy shortshifters they sell. 4.778:1 T series diff with some sort of LSD. Finish more of the body work. AE86 Front Coilovers. T3 Camber plates. Get the speedo working. Get the rev counter working. New carpet Panhard rods/ some crazy old rear suspension upgrades my old man is ALWAYS telling me to do. Finish replacing all the rubbers - Boot + the two doors and one side wide left. SCOUT OUT SOME KE35 GUTTER CHROME - I HAVE ONE SIDE BUT NOT THE OTHER. And then look at sorting out a Cert to make her completely legal Some old pictures of my coupe before it was all re-shelled. Some newer more nicer ones:
    1 point
  17. Ha Ha, Pete a young fella came into work with a 1uz in his car, and it sounded cool when he took off so that was that. V8's are cool. The list goes on. Getting older.
    1 point
  18. so Ive been doing a lot of research and thinking about fuel cell vs factory fuel tank. for those that don't know the e30 fuel tank sits under the rear set in front of the rear sub frame and has 2 tanks one on each side. this helps with the sweet handling that the e30s have and it doesn't change the handling characteristics when the tank is getting empty. now I really wanted to use a fuel cell in the boot but from what ive seen and been told (by lots of people that race e30s here in the states and the uk) that the handling is very good with about 30l of fuel but once it starts to get low the handling can change lots and become a bit of a handful. so I have decided to use the factory e30 tank from the parts car and a surge tank in the engine bay. will save me some money to as its a fuel injected model so it has a lift pump to pump to the surge tank and I can also use the fuel lines from the parts car as well. that is all
    1 point
  19. I've finally finished all the repairs on that inner guard and A-pillar Fords lip: My lip: It will do. I also spent a bit of time getting the door lined up properly and grinding the back off it to get the panel gap nice. So now I have something to work to for rebuilding the guard. Thats going to be an absolute mission. I'm going to make it out of thinner steel than I have been using so I can cut and shape it a bit easier. Pretty much have to build the whole lower guard from scratch While I'm writing this, a machinist here at work just delivered the nylon bushings for my quick release bonnet hinges as well, so now I will be able to fit up the bonnet this weekend and have something to line the top of the guard up with. Starting to come together. That corner has been such a mongrel but I'm glad I cut it up again to do it right.
    1 point
  20. right sorry for the delays, hard drive died, bathroom pick up was required (shower tray was a no show, so had to buy another bath room) and all sorts of other excuses any way pic dump time any way, drivers seating area/bed are done cupboards done, cut the doors for both sides and painted painted the roof to seal it in before doing the wall paper stuff also started on the back cupboards and test fitted the boiler and cut all the vent holes for it made a bit for the back for the toilet to attach to, back wall is all friggin angles, so had to do a bit of planing etc, fun times attached the bracket and cut the hole in the side for the cassette to come out of then fitted and tested the toilet the mrs has finished covering all the cushions etc so had a test fit to see what it looked like thats it, hopefully ill get the shower tray intoday as well, but the mrs has swanned off and its still in the back of the car, so nothing else for it beer o'clock picked that up yesterday when i was down in the engerland, tasty drop, also decided i didnt like england, if only because there was too much traffic, also never seen so many trucks in my life, left edinburgh at 5am and headed down the m6 motorway, there was 10 trucks to every car, i did like lancaster, although loads of gypsys, may be because the appleby festival is next week, or may be the gypos just like lancaster, who knows
    1 point
  21. off to a mates workshop to paint. easier than trying to paint in a single garage. that trailer has hydraulics ese lays flat on the ground, it is quite awesome xa gt replica and done. its a bit rough up close but good enough for this guy
    1 point
  22. Old car + old soviet film сamera :
    1 point
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