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With Joe x2 and pete . And a couple more in the pipeline we are pretty much there

Morris is still here so I'm doing a few little fix-ups before trying to sell it again. WOF man mentioned the speedo accuracy last time (it's been awful for many years) and since it's due for a WOF again I thought I better get it sorted. So distinguished! The mechanic recommended Auto Instrument Services in New Plymouth so I gave them a call. The instructions were to pull the gauge and tape a 'flag' onto the cable drive, then count the turns over a measured 50m distance. So it came out without too much bother. Worked out as 44 turns for 50m, so 1416 per mile, speedo spec is 1376 turns per mile. It's way less accurate in practice though, about 45% out. So I packed it up and sent it out

I've just sent off 2 forms and paid. Might bring 2 cars, probably won't. Edit again, I am retarded and tired today. A truly shit combination

Good news is that the head looks okay, valve guides look okay, exhaust valves look untouched. Just intake valves got pretty tweaked! There's a few tiny marks on the pistons but nothing to worry about. Because I have stiff valve springs, and the valves were held about half way down because of the bends. It was an interesting experience banging the collets out. I may have fired a few into orbit. So need to get some of those when I go to pickapart to get new valves etc. I was also cursing at the fact that I need to take the sump off, in order to get the front cover off to reset the timing. If I need to take the upper sump pan off, it's an engine out job which I dont really have any space to do. I managed to get the cover mostly off by only removing the lower bowl, and undoing the cover bolts from underneath - but then it seemed stuck so I resigned to the fact that I'd have to take the sump fully off. Then I remembered that the oil pickup tube is attached to the oil pump, which is on the front cover - Which was what was jamming it. Ha. So when I undo that, hopefully the cover comes off no problem. In other news, I saw a video from Papadakis racing where they fully made a turbo manifold from 3d printed inconel. It looked absolutely friggen amazing. So I thought for interests sake, I wonder if there's anywhere that 3d prints metal that could give me a price online by just uploading an STL file. So I drew a collector with no particular science to it, just to get a shape to get a ballpark figure. Expecting zillions. Much to my surprise, one of the places could do it for $250NZD from 316L stainless. Which seems absolutely incredible! The prices for getting aluminium printed seemed completely sane as well. For some smaller or more complex objects, this might be a no brainer. So at some point I think I will get one made and see how it looks. Then order a 2nd one for the other side if it's any good. But I'll do some more investigation on what makes a good collector shape first. This will be by far the cheapest and easiest option, and potentially the best shape too. I'm excited about it. It will be cool to be able to make some organic shapes without being constrained by working just with a constant pipe diameter. Might be a month or three down the track though. But thats what I'm fizzing over a the moment.

how are required numbers looking ? know it months away, but 'locking it in' is a major tick in the box ?

Feel free to enlighten me with ideas or where to get parts etc Project thread

Long time since I’ve done anything Oldschool related, the Suzuki is tucked in the corner of the shed, so though I’d buy another project. So here is my 1956 Ford F100. My first V8 of my own. Plans are to tidy it up, get it re reg’d and putt around the country. It does need a lot of work, rust everywhere , no brakes amongst other things. It still retains its v8 y block, I believe it’s either a 256ci or 272ci power plant, matched with a 4 speed floor shift auto, and it’s rhd. Discussion thread

This weekend.

Goldilocks and CRC works a treat. And fitted up the only OS.ng approved adv tyre Need to rinse and repeat on the back. To many things to remove for tonight though. That'll do pig, that'll do.

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Next on the list is tyres as the front one is full of cracks. I've got some 2.5-17 golden boys/sr241 in stock so will throw those on. Factory size is 2.25 but looks like space won't be an issue. Clean up the rims at the same time as they are a bit scody. Also just picked up a high pipe from a AC50. I like the look better than the factory A50 low pipe. Needs a good clean up and looks like I'll need a different side cover to fit so will see how that goes/make something to suit. AC50 pipe is like this Then re-rego and start riding the shit out of it really.

Fleet life

So slight change of plans. I don't have a warning light. I was right about the green and red wire but it goes to the ignition switch. sometimes this has a warning light in line but mine does not. The diagram below is from Motortrend for wiring a Ford 3G alternator but it is basically the same. It seems I can still wire it up without the bulb but I've got to work out how exactly. I may just 1 wire it and connect the rest later.

Spent some time going through the wiring and checking connections etc to try sort the light situation. For some reason the last thing I checked was bulbs....both blown. Swapped those out and all is well. So ignored the cracked sidewalls and hit the streets for a test ride. She's a beauty all right, 50mph pinned and will sit at 45mph happy as on the flat. Can't ask for much more from the old girl, I'm happy as.

I'll try and swing by tomorrow on my way past

Guess we wont be seeing you then

Thread dredge. I’m in the process of emptying our storage unit. We missed the property boom so our intentions of selling up have been shelved. Soooo drag all my shit home over next few weeks….

Gratuitous photo. To do list: Leaky weld on muffler Right rear wheel bearing protesting loudly Weeping heater core Left rear tyre touching the inner wheel tub on hard left turns One tappy tappet needs shimming Oil pressure switch weeping Build a good 5 speed from the two I have in stock and butcher modify the tunnel to fit it Rewire main beams with a relay fit electric radiator fan fit retractable front seatbelts, and fit rear seatbelts Otherwise, it starts and runs very well and I’m having fun.

I slapped some colour on it at lunchtime today. I didn't do nearly enough prep on the bonnet but I'm on a deadline for certification with other fish to fry. The fish being engine mounts but I'll get onto that tomorrow. Standard operating procedure for painting. Old paint. Not enough hardener/thinners to test fire so adjusting on the fly after too many dry spots or runs. Oh well. At least the shit job will match the rest of the bodywork so I'm not concerned.

Can't do as the tpm from the cable is about right.

It always was. They did good work though. Very good on Smiths gauges, esp chronometric tachos and speedos. At some point they carried a form of small gearbox which could be spliced into speedo drive cables to correct any differences. Had one put in the LD converted Bedford which was an annoyance as up till then it had under recorded mileage which was great for RUC. Wif insisted after she got pulled for speeding.

Does it have a miles to km converter installed backwards

Marked out 50m on the road and counted 44 turns of the cable which works out to 1416 turns per mile, speedo is marked as 1376 tpm so pretty close, it should read about 3% fast, probably due to radial vs crossply. Actually reads about 45% fast so will send it off for a lookey-loo

Hello. I'm looking for cad drawings of BMW M/S 50 , 52 , 54 drive pulleys. water pump , power steering , [flat and bell ] , Alt. 90A and 140A.

Another SCCNZ motorkhana on Sunday 5th, so of course I decided to do a full re-wire on saturday. Okay not a full re-wire, but I re-pinned everything on the ECU side, replaced the TPS wire and connector with 3 core+shield, and ran new wires for IAT and CLT. This photo was at about midnight on Saturday night, pulling the dash is a REAL pain but boy I'm glad I have a convertible. You can see the old bodged birds nest of wires in the passenger footwell. The motivation for these changes was that every analog sensor seemed to change a few percent based on RPM. So at 0RPM the sensor read "normal", but for example CLT increased 10* linearly with RPM, which is not how engines should behave so is not what we want. The other oddity was that my TPS signal had about 1-2* of noise, and that noise was hitting acceleration enrichment at cruise, resulting in weird rich conditions. Additionally I moved every single splice on a 5v or sensor ground out of the engine bay/loom and put them all into "bussed" connectors right at the ecu. Basically some cheap fake deutsch 4 or 8 way connectors with one side all bussed together. That way I can add or remove or replace ground or 5v wires if necessary without having to replace open barrel crimps in some awkward position under the dash or in the loom. The twin 4-ways are 5v, and the 8-way is GND. I did this so I could never accidentally plug them in to the wrong one. Also to solve some space requirements I potted the TPS connector and ran it to a 3-way deutsch connector in the engine bay. At about 2.30am I got the dash back in, and test fired it. You can see the ECU's new home in the dash, preventing passengers feet from strain testing my crimps. I was fully expecting nothing to work, but weirdly enough the car actually started up fine and ran. Unfortunately I made a mistake somewhere (?) and both CLT and IAT read strange, but they have 5v so I suspect I just swapped which ecu pin I put each to. I went to bed. The next morning I got the car "properly" running, assembled the rest of the dash and headed off to the motorkhana. I also changed the tune from hybrid SD/alpha-N to pure alpha-N and turned down the acceleration enrichment. It helped a lot. One of the issues I had with the blended system was that my acceleration enrichment curve meant I needed heaps of fuel for large ΔTPS at low load (SD, map-based load), but as load increased and it swapped to alpha-N, the amount of required fuel was less. My understanding is that this is because TPS updates almost instantaneously, but MAP can delay a small amount (in the hundreds of ms) so you use ΔTPS as a stopgap to throw in a bit of extra fuel until the map sensor catches up. Unfortunately if the ΔTPS means you are now using TPS based load, then the required fuel causes a rich condition. More tuning is required, but mostly I do acceleration enrichment by "feel" not what the AFR says. If it feels peppy, it's probably good. I'll post another update soon if I can eventually find any photos of my car from Sunday's motorkhana.