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Completely understand your position on lending stuff it's a bit much work to take the entire rear axle assembly (AE86) out of the car, but i'll see how I go with manual measurements and hit you up in a few weeks if i get stuck. I definitely have another item you could easily scan (headlight surround) which would make my life a whole lot easier but it's way down on my priorities list at the moment. I have technical drawings of the calipers etc, it's more just working out where in 3d space they sit compared to housing. I want to see if it's worth remaking the hat and moving the caliper outboard within the wheel and tolerances are very tight all round.

I think it is about 30 liters or so, not huge. @dmulally the GC is sending me what he has so I am probably sorted for this particular problem...

I have used POR15 fuel tank sealer in the Tigers tanks. One had some small pin holes in them. I had them dipped first to remove any of the old tank coating then just followed the instructions. That was over 10 years ago and they have never leaked. Looks like you have found something now anyway.

how big is the tank we talking? have used the 3part stuff with great success.

When do you need it done by? I have a couple of scanners (Revopoint Mini and POP2), but I don't tend to lend shit out after being burnt too many times. I'm local to you but can't do anything for a couple of weeks I would say as recovering from surgery. Could bring your bits over to scan. Flick me a PM if that works.

Are you able to shoot me your address via a flirty PM please? As for the 6B engine I'm waiting here with a tape measure and nursing a semi before descending on Stratford to see if we can break an engine hoist.

I just rang the local rad shop and they can tank it no problem. I guess if it needs to come out then it may as well be done properly. I'd be keen for that tank sealer for sure... Also I hear you will be acquiring a certain Isuzu donk?

I have some tank sealer I'm probably never going to use if you want me to send it to you. It'll rot on my shelf. I got it for my Armstrong Siddeley which has a small hole in the tank but instead Ill weld a patch in it (which is always good explosive fun). Anyway my go to method is to put a length of chain inside the tank. Wrap the tank in a blanket. And then leave it in a cement mixer for an hour or two. If it's a car I really want to keep I'll get it down to the local radiator repair shop to sit in their tank overnight. I don't bother coating it after that. I just make sure that it's never left empty for longer than a few months.

There is obviously water and rusty clag in my tank, If it is bad enough to need treatment I would like peoples opinions and experiences with various products. There is a POR15 product that looks ok but with the internet being essentially the rancid fromage found under your uncles foreskin, I would like some real world experience.... Thanks very muchly.

Also, Load up your order with sparkplugs for your other whips (that are in the same warehouse) As they're like 2.50 each and essentially free shipping!! Stock in stock.

Fingers crossed! Non entry compliance makes it a bit easier for sure. Also, before you sumbit your rockauto order, use one of these: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57663-rock-auto-discount-codes I'm assuming you've used rockauto before? If not, make sure to select parts from the same warehouse to save shipping. Also, i need to come up for a visit one weekend to see your pad!

2 months since an update, been working on the car when time allows. I'll start with the rear, I removed all the show car boxed in boot trim, moved the battery to the RH side and purchased a proper cert spec Moroso battery box, far better than just having the battery tie downs just hooked through the floor sheet metal as it was before. Bonus is I can actually run a spare wheel now too! After much thought, I decided to try a high pressure pump and surge tank combo, to save space, should be ok for what I'm trying to achieve. All new speed flow push lock AN fittings, and brand new carter lift pump. Fire extinguisher also mounted for a bit of piece of mind, will also fit another one in the cabin. Also had an O2 sensor bung fitted at the exhaust merge to assist with tuning once up and running. Although it all needs a clean, I'm trying not to be as fussy with detailing on this build, as I really don't want another long term time consuming project again.

Lidar on the iPhone definitely helps quality. Unfortunately I'm running android and I was not impressed with the photo scanning.

Are @tomble and @kws brothers from a different mother?

I never pay attention to the guessometer. It's wrong no matter what the battery % is. It's best to look at the % readout if you have it on your leaf, you should. My experience with 76%~ SOH 26kW leaf... 86km round-trip work commute, a heavy foot and a penchant for cruising in the fast lane at cheeky fractions of the speed limit: no problem in summer, but sometimes got home with 5-10% left in particularly cold rainy winter days. Girlface managed 20-30% though so totally fine for better drivers. Could get to Palmy and back with a stop in Otaki to get to 80% each way (and an 80% stop in Palmy). Upper Hutt to Wellington airport and back is fine in summer, probably want to stop at the pak n save on the way back in winter. Charging to 100% is fine, don't nickle and dime the battery, it'll drop regardless of what you do. edit: oh and my leaf's speedo reads 10% under the real value, apparently it's pretty much all leafs that do this and is why you often see leafs crawling in the slow lane at 90. edit 2: you're going to fucking love this coming winter when you find out you can set the climate control to have everything warmed up and the seat ready to heat your arse when you jump in for your morning commutes.

I soaked one I forgot about for years with durapox and enamel stuck in it in plain old gunwash, in a hot bath a couple times. Then Let it soak, scrubbed daily, and r4placed th3 gunwash in it every few days Some pipe cleaners delt to the rest. Wasn't that bad tbh

So it wasnt running quite right last time I went out, it started after taking a spirited left hander, and I had to curtail todays supply run as the problem persisted. So tonight I pulled the carbs to see what gunk was blocking things up, and it turned out to be a noticeable amount of water. I stripped both and blew out the passages then reassembled. That carboard surface was a great idea as it turned out cos the petrol soaked in and the water sat on the top which made it super obvious thats what was going on. Interestingly someone has fitted some proper 32mm chokes, I recall the ones I had on it were 28mm that had been bored to 33ish in a rough manner. It all looked pretty good in there tbh. But I suspect tomorrows effort will be siphoning out the tank....

I’ve scored a conventional spray gun that’s been sitting for years. It’s been left unwashed for quite a while. Anyway I managed to get the pot off the bottom, it tore the seal unsurprisingly. I managed to get the needle out and strip it down to the best of my abilities. I’m assuming it is enamel as person I got it off would only work with enamel. Anyone know what I can soak this turd in to get rid of the build up? Also is the saying “you can put enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel” correct? I want to use a high build primer underneath that I think will be lacquer I don’t trust paint shops after the Vulcan paint debacle….

Hopefully the rust repairs won’t get picked up on the revin, it’s already been in the system so should make things a bit easier. Rockauto looks mint, so far the shopping list is new ignition parts, new gaskets, and 2 push rods, and brake parts haha I’m sure the list will grow even more too!

Short answer is no. Long answer is maybe, with a lot of fucking around. Lvvta has said you can make a new bar if you can prove it's the same as the original one. This is all we've been given, there's nothing in the rules yet, this is from training

I've been messing around with Polycam on Iphone, $40 for the full app but also has a 7 day free trial, so far the results are pretty good

Sick. Rockauto for parts Hopefully it wont be too much of a ballache getting it revinned with the rust repairs.

Cool project

I do like that colour a lot. They look better in a darker colour (except black) than the lighter shades. Pricing is all over the place at the moment, mostly because half the people selling are trying to dump them before the RUC comes into effect, and the other half just want to upgrade to something newer, so it's split in the middle. Leafs (leaves?) with real bad battery SOH are a dime a dozen too, it takes a bit of work to pick through them and find one that has a good battery. Can confirm it can do Upper Hutt to Porirua and back on half a charge, even with the heater on. I can see why most Leaf owners avoid Transmission Gully though, that shit was brutal on the guess-o-meter, watching the ks drop away by the second. So far enjoying the car. It's a nice appliance. I'm driving it like a normal car currently and not really trying to hypermile, so I'm surprising a few people on the road by not being the slowest thing around. Traffic light drags are a laugh too. I do find that without the reassuring buzz of the ICE at certain RPM to judge my speed by, i find my speed tends to creep up a bit.

yep