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Hes running the MAF power FC that came off the running engine. I though it was the original PFC from the black car which had the map sensors. Maybe its something simple like the bov's partially open at idle and letting out a heap of metered air. Can you take the vac lines off them and give it a run?

It's a Fiat 850 sport coupe. It's in the thinking stage of the project. Waiting for repower inspiration.

You know it! Thankfully there are some other good variables that you can view/log/transmit. Like the duty cycle of the solenoid. So you can get some feedback without needing to hook up an actual scope. I do have an 8 channel USB scope though, but no point in spending an hour using that, when I can spend only 200 hours writing code to view it on my dash...

Did I just figure out you said you're going to program your car dash as an oscilloscope? 💓

It appears I do not have photographic evidence. But steering universals are a very cheap, good quality option if you can scrounge from pick a part.

Good tip. Do you have any photos how you did yours?

If you want to improve the shift feel further you could eliminate that through bolt tee setup where it attaches to the shift rod in the gearbox and fit a proper universal. In my honduh I used one from a subaru steering column, no play and super smooth being needle roller.

A valve grind, Or a valve lap? If you're lapping them, only use the fine paste, and don't lap more than you absolutely have to. The coarse paste can cut quite a bit of material out. While the engine will run okay, if the valves are sunk, they don't flow as well. My neighbour rebuilt the 3.8 moo machine in his VN Commy. It desperately needed a valve job. He lapped the fuck out of them. It ran okay, but they were sunk as fuck.

Anchor locker ftw. Having to move a box of wet chain and warp gets old.

Good to see i wasn't the only one thinking that lol

Is the boost controller you removed a standalone unit, rather than integrated with the ecu. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81684-no-boost-signal-at-power-fc/ I don't think any leak post throttle body would be an issue without causing major idle dramas, even a tiny amount of air will send revs to the moon with an engine with no load. I still think you're on the right path with the engine not getting all the info with regards to airflow. Have you got and indication on how rich it is at idle and how lean on boost?

Pulled the dash out of the ute over the weekend, found another skink, got tired of rusty screws so left the heater box for another day. Neither the xd steering wheel i put in the sedan nor the xd wheel in the rotten ute have the centre cap. Started playing with freecad and learning the ropes to suss out some ideas now i have a 3d printer. I prefer the option on the left so far, i think in black with copper inlay should look sweet. Will do some more mucking around during the week.

Good to have you back in nz tai. I bet it's cool to be looking forward to tinkering on your own project soon. Loving all the palms in the background.

I made this one for a friend, made another 2 but I burnt one by not paying attention and the other cracked as it also got too hot.

Ahh yeah so two different situations The first is the exhaust side pulleys, these currently have NO PID action going on at all, but the positions are drifting. So something mechanical. But one of the guys said if you add a minimum duty cycle amount to the solenoid, oil goes a little bit somewhere extra (or something) and then it helps a bit. Then the intake side is where one is waving around, and needs PID tuning. Exhaust side might need PID adjustments too, but not sure yet. So one quirk of this ECU. It can log straight to the laptop at 40hz, which is why I've got the crappy zigzag looking logs. Then I can log at 100hz to a logfile in the ECU. Ooorrrrr I can log stuff at 200hz by sending it over canbus. Since it's a bit of a prick to try and tune oscillating PID when you can barely see the waveform, I'll setup my dash to show some results from 200hz data and get it dialled in. Unless of course, its only a simple change and it all starts behaving, in which case I shant bother.

Well I am limiting myself to one task a day so today I mocked up a headlight and added rear swingarm and shocks...

Which kind? https://www.allcables4u.com/collections/internal-cd-dvd-audio-cables

Yes but if its a Map based power FC you have to modify the wiring to the Mafs to the Map sensors. If this was done in the original cars loom and youve replaced that loom with a factory loom that change may not have occurred but if youve already checked that wiring then that maybe I am on the wrong track If its a Maf based power FC then its probably fine and rules that out, im assuming exhaust/intake is all the same as well? Sorry if im not making sense or giving you a red herring, honesty keen to see this running mint for you Its odd if everything is pretty much the same, not something stupid like dodgy fuel filter or some shits been picked up from the tank and the injectors need a clean Could be a couple of different things ie mafs are making it rich at idle and the injectors/fuel filter being dirty making it lean on boost

Can you check voltages at each end instead of continuity? A broken wire with 1 strand still touching may have continuity and a voltage drop.

Alternator has got to be WAY up here. Fortunately, I have a spare engine on the bench. Those two bolt holes are 8mm. Not sure if I'll be overloading them with that bracket. I could tie it into one of the 6mm bolts for the cam sprocket covers. Maybe with a long bit of 2.5mm flat bar so it can flex a little to allow for some bolt misalignment. Got to make an adjuster thingy off the lug behind the water pump that also clears the firewall. Just realised I only took photos before welding the bracket...

@h4nd don you have an overflowing drawer of old computer cables? can you dig through for a cd-rom to soundcard internal cable for me. little 4 pin job *bought a 2 speed cdrom with one attached. my pc for sure needs 3 cd drives too!

again, i appreciate the input but i wrote in my post that the car was running with the same ECU, AFMs etc. the power fc obviously was working with these maf sensors because i drove it into my shed like that. when i say different loom, what i mean is that both looms (as far as i can tell) are the same factory loom, but i did not take the loom from one car and put it into the other. i have checked multiple wires in the looms and they're both the same. the one in my car has been butchered and put back together but i have continuity checked every wire that has been fucked with and they all check out good. tonight I'm going to plug every vacuum port on the balance pipe and see if there is any difference to rule out any vacuum leaks. even though i have already pressurised the balance pipe with compressed air to look for leaks and i did find a leaking injector seal but i fixed that.

Neat! good jerb, that Flu bashed that crap out of me a coupl'a months ago. Jiggles: I'd have guessed you'd want to back off the PID 'i' term https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proportional–integral–derivative_controller, but that seems to contradict issue with the drift in the off/idle position? Most PID loops I've seen seem to end up only PD, or just a tiny bit of i (maybe for long term sensor drift?). I'd be inclined to drop an actual 'scope on the feedback input to the ECU, looking for noise provoking the PID response. Looking forward to a bell curve of data-points for typical rod-throw RPM. We better start a RomanDayf slush fund to encourage RPM-abuse, and coffee and lamingtons for sustenance whilst changing blocks.

Surely cable ties would have been the final fix, I am slightly disappointed that you properly fixed it..

Heck yeah, indexible steering!