Roman Posted November 30, 2023 Author Share Posted November 30, 2023 Yeah I started hoarding J160s quite a while ago, so I've got some with low kms. One has been in dry storage for about 16 years I think now... and at the time was bought with low kms on it. The other that is currently in bits, has less than 1000km on it. It was pulled out of a near brand new car under warranty. I've currently got my 4GR bellhousing on a third box, that was ever so slightly stiff getting into 2nd gear. But it's known good as I used it for many years with the last motor. Using this as the test mule. I've got a 4th good box in bits as well. Hopefully that's enough to get me by. Will do circlip mod if I blow a box up, but not anticipating it as necessary. Beams 3S makes 216nm of torque, factory 4GR makes 260nm. So it's not a huge bump. Generally with NA stuff the torque figure stays same-ish but you move it up the powerband. So its a lot easier on the box than a turbo ramping in zillions of torque at 3000rpm. With flat shifting and e-throttle blip setup (eventually) I think these boxes will have no trouble shifting at high rpm. As with an ignition cut flat shift you dont have to wait for throttle to ramp closed before you start making less power. You get the engines pumping losses working for you instantly, dropping the rpm really fast. The big question is still whether this motor can be turd polished to actually make power at high rpm haha. Cant wait to get it going! 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted December 1, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 1, 2023 Also, Today I learn: When the fly wheel bolts fit into holes in the crank, that are open ended. Leaving the motor tipped backwards overnight results in a few litres of oil on the floor 2 1 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 How much left in the list till shed skids? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted December 13, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 13, 2023 Slowly getting there! Once the proper fuel rails are fitted I should be able to fire it up which is exciting. The clutch fork situation is not working out well so I'm borrowing a concentric slave from @Sungai Sungai to see if that will work. Looks like it should be good with the right sized spacer behind it. Most of the fuel lines are all finished. I've mounted the corvette fuel filter right down by the tank, so there's now only one main fuel line running to the engine. I finished printing some trumpets. Ordered some more AN fittings so I'll make it a straight tee at the back. Slowly getting there Still to do: -Drill throttle linkage rails -print carbon nylon version of manifold base -radiator mounts -remake firewall -finish exhaust -remake fuel lines -print housing for dash and fit dash -battery tray A few other things I've forgotten about. But just firing up the motor will be an exciting milestone. I've got no budget for exhaust parts etc for a while but I'm still making little bits of progress on the parts that dont cost anything. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted December 13, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 13, 2023 Intake looks really short? Surprisingly it isnt. Here is some mspaint magic showing overall runner length. The gumby looking part isnt as bad as it looks, it's just from where I've sliced the model slightly off center. As that's the point where it splits into a single runner per valve. 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 13, 2023 Share Posted December 13, 2023 Ohhhhh they come to snuff the rooster. Awwwo yeahhhhh 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted December 14, 2023 Author Share Posted December 14, 2023 Looks more like goat or sheep legs I reckon. haha 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted December 14, 2023 Share Posted December 14, 2023 Love your work. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sungai Sungai Posted December 14, 2023 Share Posted December 14, 2023 Looks like the legs of a man i saw at a bus stop one time. The slave wasnt a borrow @Roman its a gift! Merry Crampus 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 Would the larger valves on the smaller bore suffer from shrouding being so close to the bore and negate the larger valve size? semi related, on L24 datsuns, the valve notch has to cut into the bore. So you could do it! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Yeah shrouding could be an issue. However I think on a 4 valve motor shrouding isnt much of an issue anyway, compared to a big single intake or exhaust valve. I would have to check the CC of combustion chamber too, as the 3GR is only 10something to 1 compression. I'm not sure if thats entirely thanks to the piston, or the chamber is different. It makes the squish bands a little less than ideal as well. Either way, I'll run the tiny ports/valves first and see how it goes. I expect it'll want the bigger valves and exhaust ports though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I was musing as I went for a walk this AM. Terrible idea, which results in terrible ideas. Perhaps you do that too, and maybe can you tag your morning musings something like #RomanDayfMorningMusings for retrospective LoLs pls? Anyways, I was pondering your 1NZ piston failure, and realised, it may have been when you shut off the throttle at high rpm, because less air-cushion, and intuitively I'd guess that high silicone pistons have less ductile / tension strength, resulting in them parting as they go over the crest, like a youtuber tesla and Cali hill roads? So: what if you never shut off the throttle (air barrier) completely, [or at all], and so at prodigiously high rpms, there was always a gas cushion helping the piston crown stay attached to the gudgeon knuckle. Just retard / fuel cut in ecu as needed. Added bonus, anti-lag pops/banging and massive heat at idle, for fast warmups for club racing / drags. (actually this is all just a sneaky move for car solidarity, because the Dai has a head gasket leak, and on hot days the idle climbs, and it sits there popping and banging like a group B rally car) Bring back anti-lag! (even on n/a cars!) 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post GARDRB Posted January 18 Popular Post Share Posted January 18 So basically what you're saying is that he needs some sort of air pump, potentially a turbine running on the wasted exhaust gases to hold the tops on the pistons? 1 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfashark Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 I think he meant a little Rotrex... No taking up valuable real estate for turbo manifolds. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 @h4nd yeah ive thought similar, but using ethrottle to hold it to a minimum of say 1/4 throttle then use an ignition cut on decel. But transient conditions in and out of that would probably be... sub optimal. But another option is to just keep a crappy exhaust on it. Finally, an actual valid use for backpressure. Not making power, but holding piston tops on. Haha! Oh yeah, since this engine has exhaust side vvti, I might be able to do some weird fuckery with that to try get an egr effect on decel that helps. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dk95 Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Hi, you don't have any of the intake manifold designs uploaded to 3d print sharing websites do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Hi, no I dont. I dont really have a proven working design yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Have I got some 10" wheels for you! 2 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 With the 4.77 first and second are pretty close to what my Honda will do with 8750 rpm and a 4.4 final, which works fine in real life conditions with maybe 190 flywheel HP on a good day and 1000kg. The difference is my 3rd is good for maybe 125kph, 4th 155kph and 5th 185kph which is what helps the little 1800 feel alive. I'd be looking at something that brings 3rd 4th 5th closer and ignore 6th for racing duties and treat it just as a touring gear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 I guess I need to see if it actually makes any power before getting too carried away... 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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