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azzurro's 1960ish FIAT 1100T


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  • 2 weeks later...

Scott at Radiator Services is my man. 

Waiting on a price for a recore on the radiator, but the fuel tank is a total loss.

Its a pretty simple shape and fairly common wagon/van mounting arrangement so either a new custom tank or bodging something to fit (lada niva?) will be in my future.

Given its got no engine or brakes, im in no big rush at the mo!

Pull and Pay is permanaently closed

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  • 2 months later...

That surface rust underneath looks perfect for POR15 to bite into and work well. Get rid of all the flakey stuff with a wire wheel and start painting. I've used it heaps now, for about 10 years and fuck it works well at 'encapsulating' the rust. Things from 10 years ago are still looking fine.

Its not UV stable but that's fine because

1: its underneath and out of the sun,

2: you're in Dunners. There is no sun......*

My local place has stopped selling por15 because the importers have changed again. We've now been trying an oz product which is a blatant rip off. Works the same way but actually brushes on just that bit nicer. But I have no idea yet as to how it lasts but from they way it sets, its finish etc I think its going to be fine.









*Not true. Back in the  Dunedin 'summer' 1973 there was a mysterious hot thing in the sky believed by many to be the sun. To this day its still not proven though.

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Rear swaybar? Must be the bathurst edition? 


I'd recommend having a yarn to the repair certifier before doing anything to the undersides 

Covering anything with paint or underseal can lead to headaches , have had many customers do things like that then have to strip it all off again for repair cert inspection 

They may also have recommendations for someone to blast it if that's what it needs 


If you do need to get it blasted I'd strip it as much as you can so there's as little things to get sand in and overspray on as possible.  The people who do it for a job are not the sharpest tools in the shed so it's not uncommon to see the chrome on shock shafts get a blast or other dumb things  

They are also only good at painting in their line of sight so be prepared to have to touch it up yourself 

Here's one I have on the hoist right now actually





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Thanks Chaps,

I think i may just leave it for now, and do what the man wants later. 


Once i have a man. (recommendations for south island repair cert folk?) 

I should really make a start on the paper work too. 


RE Weather, since i am a massive dork, i have previously prepared this:

Top graph shows Dunedin is consistently ~4deg cooler, but has significantly less rainfall in winter and is less humid.

Second graph also shows that its somehow less sunny as well, but I recon its way sunnier (im on the Mosgiel side of the hill tho) , and way less windy than Auckland.

Also the sun is way hotter feeling when its out, but the air being less humid doenst hold the heat the same.


Dun vs Akl weather.JPG

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6 hours ago, Nominal said:

I had been told there was one in Balclutha that was good too, could be the Gore guy, maybe.

Worst case is if i need to get the repairs done by a shop 'approved repairer', thats a hard nope.

Hopefully i can show that im not a total numptie (IMO!) and "have the skill and knowledge to competently perform the repairs required" as most of the rust is actually pretty simple stuff like door bottoms and floor sections, no real structural stuff (except for the A pillar maybe) and whcile i dont want to set myself up for 3 more vehicles worth of repair certification, pretty confident ive got the skills and equipment to make a kwalitee fix

An approved repairer will have the skills and knowledge required to competently perform the repairs required. The repairer must have the correct equipment to perform the repairs necessary. The certifier will include all the repairer’s details in a file.

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My local guy kind-of recommended getting this qualification. Have done the initial application but not filled out the resulting forms yet. He reckoned it would make the overall process easier, particularly the audit stage.




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  • 5 weeks later...
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No, it means Tired and Tatty.


Ive looked around but ive not seen it stated anywhere, so possibly just a coincidence, but i suspect 'Trasportatore' (transporter) as it was a contemporary to the VW Type 2 (or split window kombi or Transporter).

These were also developed as pickup , and the pick up (il camioncino = literally, 'little truck') or truck (camion). the italian for van is 'furgone' so it would be F or C if it were one of those words?

FIAT wasn't much for model names at the time, and preferred numbers that tended to relate either to the engine capacity (eg my 2300, Duemillitrecento) or model ( like my (tipo) 125 (uno due cinque) , or 125p being a 125 made in Poland (uno due cinque Polski)) . 

So 1100 (being that was the engine size it had when first released in 1954, and based on the 1100 ('millicento') car) with a T for Trasportatore?


Millicento-Ti or Millicento-Trasportatore


The model names sound heaps better in Italian!

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