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DABUZZ'Z 1971 MAZDA CAPELLA RE + New 74 RX4


dabuzz

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It raises a question, as I'm sure the likes of the PAC Performance tanks can be certed, but they have fittings in the boot area, and lines no doubt running through the factory in boot locations.

 

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The last one of those I did , needed extra mounts , as the tank was a lot bigger than original but still bolted in with 4x 8mm bolts or whatever an rx3 has  

Plus sealing the boot, making sure fuel can't leak onto electrical or exhaust  etc 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 08/06/2024 at 19:25, Nominal said:

@dabuzz How did you find the pushlock fittings to assemble?

Not bad, best advice I can give is use a bit of rubber grease to help them slide down, was super hard to get them to seat without it. And defo use the stainless crimps for extra security 

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Man I am fizzing to see how the new charger setup is going to turn out. 

Cant believe it's had that "half throttle" manifold plate in there all this time, haha. 

Water meth is a great idea. 

Cant remember if it was mentioned, but what sort of ECU are you going to use?

I honestly wont be mad if it's an old Microtech with screwdriver trim pots to tune it. How good.

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Ha, its an older Microtech, but not quite that old

Using an LT16, has provision for 8 injectors, so will run 2 injectors in the center plate and 6 in the throttle body above the blower.

Center plate injectors help with cold starts and off idle low down drivability due to not having to have fuel travel so far and through blower vanes which disturb atomisation.

Also having the injectors before the blower helps to seal it with a layer of fuel which aids in boost, and also helps cool the intake charge as well by squirting cold fuel onto the vanes.     

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Yup, not great,  I can make do with them as they technically work, hopefully they'd pass again (?) - but ideally id like to cut them off and get proper bolt on brackets for the P11 calipers,

I've done a bit of a search but most brackets seem to be for U13 Nissan, not the P11.

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Also, regarding diff, can get a 5.1 Hiace open head which I could possibly swap my LSD centre into, but head is a different shape to my hilux, is this just an early Vs late thing? I assume it should just all  swap in ok?

 

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The carrier differences are to do with the pinion locations being slightly different, but other than that, I don't believe there are any other differences. The flange pattern to housing will be same, spline count will be same. Open vs Lsd sometimes have difference axles, you will need to measure the spline engagement.

There are 2, maybe 3 different pinion flange bolt pattern aswell, so you will need to check that, or may be able to swap your orig flange onto the 4.8 pinion.

 

Pm me some pics of the Calipers you have with a centre-centre measurment of the mounting bolts. I may have a cad file for those brackets.

 

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yes mate - would you put your name to a power upgrade without going over the existing supporting mods to see if they are still safe?

this car is a prime example, certed 20 years ago, remember the coil overs were just about falling out (poor engineering), brake lines fouling, driveline hitting the floor as no bump stops plus a bunch of other items.

I for one wouldn't sign off on it, its a case of the last person to look at it owns it.  

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it can get murky.

in an ideal world=

the car is certed for a, b and c mods

the cert is done properly the first time

now has d and e mods added

a certifier only has to assess the new mods, the others are covered by the previous cert. you get a new cert and carry on with life

 

 

however, especially with the new photo based system, this is often not that easy, and a large can of worms can be opened, often a recert can turn into a fucking nightmare due to

previous certs being done poorly,

things being missed the first time,

the old plates not being big enough to fit everything on,

the expectation of what should be certified on a car changing over time,

people adding or changing stuff that fits within the limited description  that fits on a old style tag

and even just trying to figure out what was acceptable at the time when it was first certed.

this all takes time, emailing back and forth with lvvta etc

 it always takes me longer to do than just starting a new cert on a freshly modified car

 

for example, 

the welded caliper brackets on @dabuzz car, if i was re doing the cert, normally that would be a no go, cant do that, but it already has a cert for disc brakes on the rear,so i can just write down "previously certified"

however i dont know if the previous certifier went to lvvta to get an exemption because it was already done

or did he not notice at all

or did he notice and choose to ignore it

or has someone changed it since it was certed

so ive got to take a photo of that mod for the new cert, and say yep thats good, its on the cert with my name on it, so everyone that looks up that cert from here on, sees that i did the cert

 

so to cover my arse, id have to go to lvvta and explain the situation, and get the OK from them, this might take a while because they would likely recall the paperwork and see what it says

it might say that there was a NDT for the weld and it was welded with a low carbon rod to a cast steel bearing housing and there was a exemption given at the time, in which case it is ok

 

or it might just have a tick in a box next to 'car has brakes'

 

in my opinion

if you are changing the calipers or are unhappy with it, just cut all that shit off and make a bracket that bolts on to the ends with the calipers you want

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