dabuzz Posted May 16, 2024 Author Posted May 16, 2024 It raises a question, as I'm sure the likes of the PAC Performance tanks can be certed, but they have fittings in the boot area, and lines no doubt running through the factory in boot locations. Quote
cletus Posted May 16, 2024 Posted May 16, 2024 The last one of those I did , needed extra mounts , as the tank was a lot bigger than original but still bolted in with 4x 8mm bolts or whatever an rx3 has Plus sealing the boot, making sure fuel can't leak onto electrical or exhaust etc 1 Quote
Nominal Posted June 8, 2024 Posted June 8, 2024 @dabuzz How did you find the pushlock fittings to assemble? Quote
dabuzz Posted June 9, 2024 Author Posted June 9, 2024 On 08/06/2024 at 19:25, Nominal said: @dabuzz How did you find the pushlock fittings to assemble? Not bad, best advice I can give is use a bit of rubber grease to help them slide down, was super hard to get them to seat without it. And defo use the stainless crimps for extra security 1 Quote
Roman Posted July 9, 2024 Posted July 9, 2024 Man I am fizzing to see how the new charger setup is going to turn out. Cant believe it's had that "half throttle" manifold plate in there all this time, haha. Water meth is a great idea. Cant remember if it was mentioned, but what sort of ECU are you going to use? I honestly wont be mad if it's an old Microtech with screwdriver trim pots to tune it. How good. Quote
dabuzz Posted July 9, 2024 Author Posted July 9, 2024 Ha, its an older Microtech, but not quite that old Using an LT16, has provision for 8 injectors, so will run 2 injectors in the center plate and 6 in the throttle body above the blower. Center plate injectors help with cold starts and off idle low down drivability due to not having to have fuel travel so far and through blower vanes which disturb atomisation. Also having the injectors before the blower helps to seal it with a layer of fuel which aids in boost, and also helps cool the intake charge as well by squirting cold fuel onto the vanes. 3 Quote
RXFORD Posted September 22, 2024 Posted September 22, 2024 Eww, cal brackets welded to cast/forged flanges. 1 Quote
440bbm Posted September 22, 2024 Posted September 22, 2024 yeahh yuuuuk thats not good.. have you got any of your brake kits left @RXFORD for those Quote
dabuzz Posted September 22, 2024 Author Posted September 22, 2024 Yup, not great, I can make do with them as they technically work, hopefully they'd pass again (?) - but ideally id like to cut them off and get proper bolt on brackets for the P11 calipers, I've done a bit of a search but most brackets seem to be for U13 Nissan, not the P11. Quote
tortron Posted September 22, 2024 Posted September 22, 2024 4 minutes ago, dabuzz said: I've done a bit of a search but most brackets seem to be for U13 Nissan, not the P11. What brackets do you need? I have a few from my Nissan brake investigations Quote
dabuzz Posted September 22, 2024 Author Posted September 22, 2024 31 minutes ago, tortron said: What brackets do you need? I have a few from my Nissan brake investigations P11 Primera to Hilux Quote
dabuzz Posted September 22, 2024 Author Posted September 22, 2024 Unless someone has some U13 calipers for sale, and then I can get brackets easily, and ill redo the handbrake cables while I'm at it as I'm not overly happy with those either Quote
dabuzz Posted September 22, 2024 Author Posted September 22, 2024 Also, regarding diff, can get a 5.1 Hiace open head which I could possibly swap my LSD centre into, but head is a different shape to my hilux, is this just an early Vs late thing? I assume it should just all swap in ok? Quote
RXFORD Posted September 23, 2024 Posted September 23, 2024 The carrier differences are to do with the pinion locations being slightly different, but other than that, I don't believe there are any other differences. The flange pattern to housing will be same, spline count will be same. Open vs Lsd sometimes have difference axles, you will need to measure the spline engagement. There are 2, maybe 3 different pinion flange bolt pattern aswell, so you will need to check that, or may be able to swap your orig flange onto the 4.8 pinion. Pm me some pics of the Calipers you have with a centre-centre measurment of the mounting bolts. I may have a cad file for those brackets. 1 Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted September 23, 2024 Posted September 23, 2024 If you are getting new rear flexible brake lines made up you can get Banjo fittings exit is angled up instead of being straight out like in your pic. Might help in that situation. 1 Quote
dabuzz Posted September 23, 2024 Author Posted September 23, 2024 I'll def look into that, thanks, just need to confirm cert wise whether I can use the existing caliper bracket or not first Quote
Roman Posted September 23, 2024 Posted September 23, 2024 @dabuzz are you sure that everything on the car gets recerted? My understanding is that if you've got an existing cert, but then change just one thing, they effectively recert for just that. Any clarification on this one please @cletus Quote
dabuzz Posted September 23, 2024 Author Posted September 23, 2024 yes mate - would you put your name to a power upgrade without going over the existing supporting mods to see if they are still safe? this car is a prime example, certed 20 years ago, remember the coil overs were just about falling out (poor engineering), brake lines fouling, driveline hitting the floor as no bump stops plus a bunch of other items. I for one wouldn't sign off on it, its a case of the last person to look at it owns it. 1 1 Quote
oldrx7 Posted September 23, 2024 Posted September 23, 2024 Maybe if you were updating the cert for wheel swap or seats etc. But power upgrade would be a different kettle of fish. 2 Quote
cletus Posted September 24, 2024 Posted September 24, 2024 it can get murky. in an ideal world= the car is certed for a, b and c mods the cert is done properly the first time now has d and e mods added a certifier only has to assess the new mods, the others are covered by the previous cert. you get a new cert and carry on with life however, especially with the new photo based system, this is often not that easy, and a large can of worms can be opened, often a recert can turn into a fucking nightmare due to previous certs being done poorly, things being missed the first time, the old plates not being big enough to fit everything on, the expectation of what should be certified on a car changing over time, people adding or changing stuff that fits within the limited description that fits on a old style tag and even just trying to figure out what was acceptable at the time when it was first certed. this all takes time, emailing back and forth with lvvta etc it always takes me longer to do than just starting a new cert on a freshly modified car for example, the welded caliper brackets on @dabuzz car, if i was re doing the cert, normally that would be a no go, cant do that, but it already has a cert for disc brakes on the rear,so i can just write down "previously certified" however i dont know if the previous certifier went to lvvta to get an exemption because it was already done or did he not notice at all or did he notice and choose to ignore it or has someone changed it since it was certed so ive got to take a photo of that mod for the new cert, and say yep thats good, its on the cert with my name on it, so everyone that looks up that cert from here on, sees that i did the cert so to cover my arse, id have to go to lvvta and explain the situation, and get the OK from them, this might take a while because they would likely recall the paperwork and see what it says it might say that there was a NDT for the weld and it was welded with a low carbon rod to a cast steel bearing housing and there was a exemption given at the time, in which case it is ok or it might just have a tick in a box next to 'car has brakes' in my opinion if you are changing the calipers or are unhappy with it, just cut all that shit off and make a bracket that bolts on to the ends with the calipers you want 6 3 Quote
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