kyteler Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 Is the front end extended on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooters Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 How many lime's came to NZ ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 Not sure on the guard deal, or if it's just doors different? As for how many limes, probably impossible to know. Probably didn't make it onto registration papers. I wouldn't think there would be that many though. Doesn't seem to be that many hardtops floating around to begin with. Will be doing my best to keep all the decals intact. I may have a plate for it hanging on the wall along that theme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted April 28, 2019 Share Posted April 28, 2019 Your shrinker stretcher. What make is it. Do you find that sometimes the shrinker jaws won't 'grab' the steel enough to shrink. I've cleaned the little ridges on my set of shrinker jaws but I think they might be worn. Sometimes it takes several attempts to get them to grab the steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted April 28, 2019 Share Posted April 28, 2019 14 minutes ago, yoeddynz said: Your shrinker stretcher. What make is it. Do you find that sometimes the shrinker jaws won't 'grab' the steel enough to shrink. I've cleaned the little ridges on my set of shrinker jaws but I think they might be worn. Sometimes it takes several attempts to get them to grab the steel. I've heard of people re-stippling some types of jaws. I've got a Lancaster shrinker that is still OK (I don't use it a huge amount), but they can apparently be re-done as well, e.g. https://www.tinmantech.com/products/forming-machines/shrinker-stretchers/lancaster-shrinker-stretchers/lancaster-shrinker-stretcher-modified-jaws.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted April 28, 2019 Author Share Posted April 28, 2019 29 minutes ago, yoeddynz said: Your shrinker stretcher. What make is it. Do you find that sometimes the shrinker jaws won't 'grab' the steel enough to shrink. It's a no brand copy, probably off TradeMe from someone like topmaq. Have had it a few years now. Haven't used it a HUGE amount, so the jaws are still pretty good. No issues so far with them grabbing the steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Ok cool. Could be a source for new cheap jaws. Most I've seen are all the same size.. All copies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandeesha Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Its pleasure to see this hardtop under good hands. You did Great effort. Good job pal. I have Ae70 hardtop coupe too. Its under restoration. Will post some photos when it's done . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted July 30, 2019 Author Share Posted July 30, 2019 Cool man, keen to see yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 @Bling y u no post pic of car on longchamps! Oh, no tyres on them yet... right. Looks good! I like this shape of the KE7* range 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Yeah no tyres and also need to finish polishing them. Will hopefully remedy that soon enough though. Then after lock down I can order tyres. Yeah it's a pretty cool shape for sure, certainly not one you see around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 With those brackets you can add some strength/rigidity by staking them on the bends. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Yeah that's a good idea, will look into that once it's all back together. As i'm not sure of final position so i'll likely need to tweak them. It only holds a small front factory lip in place, so no weight to support really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 What size are the hoshinos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Those ones are 14x6.5" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Why are 12.9 not suitable for cyclic loading? I was under the impression that they are just better all around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 More brittle, prone to sheer than 8.8 / 10.9's. That was the gist I got from the people I spoke to. I was informed that they would probably be fine in my application. But given what the manual says and that I want the wheels and brakes staying put, it was a no brainer to just replace them. Will repurpose the other bolts in other locations. Probably 12.9's installed in modified cars everywhere with zero issue. But from what I read, that's just not something I want, whether it can get signed off or not. Mostly 10.9's now with nord-lock washers so shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 Seems hydrogen embrittlement is a higher risk with 12.9's too, which I guess relates to the brittle / sheer issues above. https://www.boltscience.com/pages/the-stronger-the-better-is-not-necessarily-the-case-for-fasteners.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 You'll be perfectly fine running 10.9/8.8, that's what Toyota did back in the day. Anywho: As far as I am aware the shear strength is essentially related to the tensile strength -> more tensile gives more shear (shear strength is usually around 55% of tensile) - if anyone can find proof that 12.9 has lower shear strength than 10.9 I'd happily accept it As stated in that pdf, fatigue behavior is the same between 12.9 and 10.9 Strain at failure for 10.9 is about 9% and for 12.9 is about 8%, so the 12.9 really isn't any more brittle I guess the hydrogen embrittlement issue could actually be a problem if the bolt is used on an 80's Toyota or mid 2000's Ford due to all the corrosion taking place. Do you have a screenshot of the relevant CCM chapter that states bolt strengths? From what I could see in the LVVTA Standards they just specify the minimum allowable bolt strength and don't say no to 12.9 - they also explicitly state that Nyloc is fine (minimum 2 threads protruding from nut) unless somewhere that gets hot like engine components of brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 One really really good reason I can think of to not use 12.9 bolts would be that they are stronger than the component you are threading them into most of the time. So if you do them up to the recommended 12.9 torque settings you could strip out your engine block or brake caliper etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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