sheepers Posted October 11, 2019 Share Posted October 11, 2019 You did a lot better then I though you would. Well done. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 There was a chunk missing here, I filled it with the TIG and ground a new groove for the gasket with a die grinder (Dremel brand sucks BTW, I've had 2 fail, threw it in the bin). Also added some wool and mesh into the baffles since it was off: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 Shortened the R35 coils using these jobbies (white bits) made by Franklin Engineering in Napier. Have to shorten the internal spring as well. Now they fit better, especially under the breather cross over pipe and there is more room for the loom plugs. Started testing out a cardboard CAD bracket to support them: I'll make them out of some 6mm thick aluminium, I could buy some CNC made ones but they are really expensive, so trying to save around $350~ by making them myself. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 First attempt to make the main part of the support bracket, works pretty well. Need to figure out how to bolt them to the bracket now, since the cam cover bolt is in the way on one and the coil mounting point is raised higher than the rest of it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 On my last two COP conversions I used 20mm acetal round bar in black, just drilled through to space the coil to the correct height then drill/tap hole onto mounting plate. Cheap, light, and easy to machine. (if that is the problem you are trying to cure) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 On 07/11/2019 at 21:52, mjrstar said: On my last two COP conversions I used 20mm acetal round bar in black, just drilled through to space the coil to the correct height then drill/tap hole onto mounting plate. Cheap, light, and easy to machine. (if that is the problem you are trying to cure) I can’t really picture what you mean but I think I have a good solution now. I’ve remade the first plate to add a tab for support and a bit more area for the mounting bolts to the coils. Have made all three now, need to get a threat tap the right size and see if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted November 9, 2019 Share Posted November 9, 2019 This shows it better 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 12 hours ago, mjrstar said: This shows it better Ah right yep that's how I was looking at doing it but with aluminium or maybe a crush tube type thing. Main problem is that the cam cover mount bolts get in the way so not enough room on 3 of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted November 14, 2019 Author Share Posted November 14, 2019 I bought a good crimping tool because I was struggling to get nice crimps using the Fuller auto wire stripper that happened to have the right type of crimp in the handle. It was such a piece of shit, well it stripped wires nicely at least. New tool is about 1 million times better and makes it a much more enjoyable. Nice out of focus crimps: Completed injector plug section: Also completed the Coil on plug stuff and that section of loom: There is bugger all room for the COP loom plugs, a couple of mm clearance between each plug and the mount for the next coil, but I guess they weren't designed to be there. The space for the coil mount bolt hole is small too, if I move it anywhere else the loom plug touches the cam cover or the other coil. But its in there! I ended up making up some spacers out of some random scrap tube, I think it might be A/C hard line? Then oval'd it to fit in the space. Might tig it to the plate but its good as is: I'm contemplating seeing what the stock clutch will handle on the dyno instead of taking it all out. I mean it handled 260 wheel kw's so I wonder if it'll handle 300? Probably not... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted November 19, 2019 Share Posted November 19, 2019 On 11/10/2019 at 17:50, ~Slideways~ said: needs a special crimper hey, just saw this, im assuming you need/needed a bootlace crimper we use the 4 sided ones at work for these let me know if you want to borrow one if you havent already sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 2 hours ago, datlow said: hey, just saw this, im assuming you need/needed a bootlace crimper we use the 4 sided ones at work for these let me know if you want to borrow one if you havent already sorted Hey man thanks for that, I’ll let you know if I need to. Current plan is to check if the guy doing to tune has one to just do it then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Might be a silly question but since there are higher spec Link G4+ ecu's (I'm using a Storm g4+ black) and the A+B looms are generic, does that mean all of the extra wires can be removed/ depinned? i.e. the wires for higher spec ecu's with more outputs etc, where my wiring plug diagram has some blank spaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperblade Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 1 hour ago, ~Slideways~ said: Might be a silly question but since there are higher spec Link G4+ ecu's (I'm using a Storm g4+ black) and the A+B looms are generic, does that mean all of the extra wires can be removed/ depinned? i.e. the wires for higher spec ecu's with more outputs etc, where my wiring plug diagram has some blank spaces. Yep 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 FUUUCK... Was not rusty like this when I put the pump in a few years ago. Maybe it just wasn’t visible and it washed of with a full tank? Have a ‘new’ good tank to go in. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 Alrighty: - new tank is in and also painted - installed a new Deatsch Werks DW400 E85 pump - have moved the hard lines away from the exhaust - fitted e-85 safe braided hose everywhere except one last non-e85 bit on the inlet of fuel rail (just future proofing for e85 later) - wrapped exhaust and fitted more heat shielding near gbox because it was soaking up a lot of heat - engine loom is done and wired into rad fans, fuel pump, etc etc - also extended the turbos 4" inlet pipe with some pie cut jobbies so I can fit a 4" inlet K&N (previously I had a reducer to fit to the old MAF, and a 3.something" inlet air filter) Testing Link wiring and have a couple of issues to sort out before I know if the rest works. 1. I appear to be getting power back feeding through the Boost control solenoid (MAC jobby). Meaning the ECU Hold Power never turns off if the solenoid is plugged in. I don't really understand why though because it is getting 12v ign switched and ground is via the Link's 8th injector output set to 'Boost Solenoid'. This seems to be a common problem but I haven't figured it out yet. It shares the power line with the VVti solenoid but it doesn't make a difference if it is plugged in or not. 2. I get the same issue with the radiator fan relays back feeding power. If I test the relays with the G4+ software it triggers the fans fine. The Ecu hold power function looks to work fine, the Ignition Switch triggers the Digital Input as it should and shows hold power as active, turn of ign and the ecu stays on for a bit then I can hear the Main Relay click and it turns off. But as soon as I plug in one of the above, the power doesn't turn off. I can leave everything else plugged in and I get no issues. So it must be power back feeding through the earth of the aux wires on both, but they are both wired to switched power so there must be something wrong with the wiring of the relays maybe?. A diode wouldn't work in a ground wire would it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Have you made a drawing of your wiring diagram? I found it helped when I did my Starlet. AFAIK, yes Diode works just the same in a ground wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 1 hour ago, Adoom said: Have you made a drawing of your wiring diagram? I found it helped when I did my Starlet. AFAIK, yes Diode works just the same in a ground wire. Crudely yes lol, will do it properly when finished. Maybe a diode would work then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 Someone on here had similar issue with ecu staying powered up. Think we figured out it was the way the relays and ecu power were wired. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 Same issues with my old link plus, the fuel pump would stay on... I ended up switching the power side of the relay as well as the ecu pull to ground to solve the issue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 I've had this same issue too, but it was a lot more subtle (and so lasted for years! Was draining my battery flat slowly) The problem is that ALL relays that the ECU controls, need to be fed their 12v supply from ignition switched power. As in, you cant feed them direct from the battery. Otherwise some wizard magic happens and the ECU gets voltage coming in through the outputs. I'm not sure how the hold power relay works, but I'm guessing this needs to somehow be wired as an exception. It sounds like your boost solenoid / vvti relay possibly arent through ignition switched power? There was an exception to this on using some of the outputs, but I cant remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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