george_lanyon Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 hey i was just wondering if i cut my steering rack mounts off and relocated them 15mm to the right for clearance in my te71 for my engine will this change any of my steering geometry. i will add rack spacers to one side to make up for the shift to one side. any help very much appreciated, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 what motor are you running? I have 3T with AE70 x-member/rack and with some minor re-work, clearancing the lower steering u/j . what ever you do, DO NOT run it without RH bellhousing brace, as you will fucking regret it very fucken big time !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 If i understand right, you want to move it to one side and add spacers to the other, so it will effectively lengthen the rack. I reckon it will muck about with your bump steer geometry, you might be able to correct it again with spacers at the outer tie rod ends, but the short answer to your question is yes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLIZZO Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 even if your space the other side so that your pivot point is the same on each side you will still have bump steer issues as anglia4 said becuase you are still changing your pivot points in relation to lower control arm pivot points. You could change all of these to get it perfect but would take a lot of design and fuckery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 one does not need to fuck with the rack. I put you wrong earlier, rally car has TE71 X-member with KE70 rack mounts and rack, (AE70 unit is in spare shell) the RH engine brace is easily modified by machining (or grinding) the bosses off then counter sinking the holes that attach it to the block. get countersunk cap screws(may need to have heads turned down) to replace standard bolts. the bolt that retains the steering U/J to the rack is replaced with a button head cap screw in doing these 3 things, 15-20mm clearance is achieved taking the brace off allows the bell housing to flex, with inturn stretches flywheel bolts, resulting in flywheel walking off the crank. VERY FUCKEN DANGEROUS !!!!!!! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_lanyon Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 thanks for your help, i guess that is not an option then. i have a s7 13b in it. what about if i just move the whole rack about 20mm down instead of sideways, would this affect my bump steer and things aswell? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost_bryan Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 thanks for your help, i guess that is not an option then. i have a s7 13b in it. what about if i just move the whole rack about 20mm down instead of sideways, would this affect my bump steer and things aswell? thanks Yes, that will affect bump steer too. You'll have the tie rods at a different angle, so that will change the geometry that they move through, unless you also change the steering arms to compensate. Recommend speaking to a certifier for advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 its surprising how little of a change in geometry can affect the toe change ( bump steer) i changed tie rod ends on a car of mine- about 9mm difference in the pivot point height it went from 23mm of toe change over its total travel, to 6mm with the new tie rod ends, and a noticeable improvement in handling 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 but hang on, you are not the first person to install a rotary into a corolla, and I bet (or I fucking hope) they don't fuck with the rack to install the engine. what parts are contacting ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 They usually convert to a steering box out of an earlier model e70. As for moving the rack, if you just move it sideways and don't lengthen it at all or move it up or down, then there will be no geometry change but you will have to deal with being able to turn tighter one way than the other. We do this all the time at work and other than the whole uneven steering lock thing then there is no problem, and 15mm is only about an 1/4 of a turn on the wheel so you probably won't even notice. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 They usually convert to a steering box out of an earlier model e70. As for moving the rack, if you just move it sideways and don't lengthen it at all or move it up or down, then there will be no geometry change but you will have to deal with being able to turn tighter one way than the other. We do this all the time at work and other than the whole uneven steering lock thing then there is no problem, and 15mm is only about an 1/4 of a turn on the wheel so you probably won't even notice. Rev limit, clutch dump turns with minimal lock anyway. Rotary. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_lanyon Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 the back of my engine is touching the rack because i mounted it so far back in the bay. i think i might do what rookie recommended and just move the whole rack without making it longer or shorter and dealing with less lock on one side. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachlander Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Cant just mount the engine a little bit further forward? Would be a lot less hassle i would imagine, and you wouldnt loose much in the way of having the weight further back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 the back of my engine is touching the rack because i mounted it so far back in the bay. i think i might do what rookie recommended and just move the whole rack without making it longer or shorter and dealing with less lock on one side. thanks you wont be able to do that if you want to get it certed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 you wont be able to do that if you want to get it certedWhat he said, (can't believe I'm agreeing with cletus for once!). Moving a steering rack in any direction will change your steering geometry, don't do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Lol yet again you have proved that your opinion isn't even worth the bandwidth used to write it sr2... Wait, what? Are you saying Clint that if you move a steering rack you can't get a cert? What about all of the scratch built cars, and cars converted to steering rack? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 I believe Clint is referring to re-fitting the rack offset to cure a fuck-up made by pushing motor too far back. OP have 3 options really 1. move motor forward to get clearance 2. return the shell to steering box set-up. 3. get a real engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Yeah the issue is mounting it not in the middle, it has to be centralized for a cert. You could move it up down or forward or back if the geometry was still OK. It's probably less of a hassle to just remount the engine though, as moving it opens a whole new can of worms if you need to correct toe change problems or get longer steering shafts made or something 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_lanyon Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 i guess ill have to just move the engine forward a bit then, its only just touching it so shouldnt be too bad. thanks for the help. the car will need to get cert so thats looking like the best option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 im struggling to understand geometry changing or steering arm length needing to change to move the pinion/bearing housing over relative to the rack which remains exactly the same i feel like you could satisfy clint by removing the extension stopper out of one side of the housing and putting it in the other side, in the limited number i have played with there has been an extra tooth of travel in them before the rack and peanut bind up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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