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You're a sick sick man Feullip.

My condolences at your latest aquisition.

I too recall when the fun police rolled the v3000 too. I remember thinking how flash thwy looked when I was passengering in a ute that got rolled doing 143 while towing.

How long till it begins burning oil?

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I'm sure one of the Jap spec turbo models came with a digital dash. But sadly the Magna had just the one engine option though with EFI and manual they weren't too slow.

 

Because the Magna has been widened it shares the same platform dimensions as the AWD 90-94 shape Diamante and GTO of which both were just widened versions of the 6th gen Galant VR-4 anyway. I would say the Diamante/GTO subframes would bolt in and possible to repower with GTO's 3L turbo 6 and getrag 6 speed combination. The major hassle would be converting the rear to AWD.

Sirius Dash 3x2 Eternia had a digital Dash IIRC correctly. The SE Sigma had the digital dash, but not the turbo engine. Perhaps the Jap spec Galant VR had both? Not sure.

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You're a sick sick man Feullip.

My condolences at your latest aquisition.

I too recall when the fun police rolled the v3000 too. I remember thinking how flash thwy looked when I was passengering in a ute that got rolled doing 143 while towing.

How long till it begins burning oil?

Surprisingly it doesn't use oil and I'm using a thinner 15W40 grade - no smoke or leaks whatsoever. The previous owner definitely looked after it well.

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Sirius Dash 3x2 Eternia had a digital Dash IIRC correctly. The SE Sigma had the digital dash, but not the turbo engine. Perhaps the Jap spec Galant VR had both? Not sure.

I think it was an option as I've seen DASH powered Galants and Eternas with analog dash too. I wish my Magna had the self hiding wipers of the NZ Sigma SE or the lush jap spec ones.

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yeah they don't have a huge amount of power from the SOHC 3L with only 150 odd hp, but they have good low down torque. A bit front heavy though and known not to be the most stable of vehicles. Is your old lady's a 5spd manual or auto?

 

Its the auto one, towed the boat no worries and the odd big car trailer

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  • 4 months later...

Small update - one of our local pick a part style wrecking hards had a $50 all you can carry promotion so I pulled all the EFI and 5speed manual swap gear and did two runs ($100 total).

 

Managed to get:

- TS M9 cylinder head - has roller rockers and the smaller kidney shaped combustion chamber so combined with my stock flat top pistons should give me 9.5:1 CR

- Fuel pump and EFI filter, inlet manifold, ECU, wiring loom, dizzy, AFM, air box/piping, all sensors etc

- Air box/hose, overflow bottle, throttle cable and anything else that's different between TM carb and TN/TP EFI cars

- 5 speed F5M31 gearbox with driveshafts, shifter and linkages, gearbox mount etc (not pictured)

 

IMG_8229_zps0mrwt4ez.jpg

 

 

Set to work a couple weekends back by removing the original M2 'hemi' head and carb junk

 

IMG_8252_zpsumeo7uhz.jpg

 

 

Modified the later TR/TS Magna inlet manifold to fit in the earlier TM engine bay. You can see the comparison between the earlier and later manifold size below - I definitely wanted the longer/bigger runners and plenum as there is a 20hp difference between the two

 

IMG_7293_zpsmsbxrkd3.jpg

 

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Did this by slicing about 7mm off the rear edge of the flange and relocated the clamping bolts further inward along with adding another bolt. The breather barb will be relocated.

 

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Pulled the donor loom apart and labelled everything that needs to be spliced into the original loom. I'm keeping the car's original loom in place and taking key connections (ignition power etc) off various places with plugs that plug into the existing loom to minimise butchering the car

 

IMG_8230_zpsrg2yps5q.jpg

 

 

Block prepped, fuel filter mounted and EFI loom laid down low of the firewall out of sight once all back together

 

IMG_8282_zps24a0usaf.jpg

 

 

New head gasket down ready for the M9 head

 

IMG_8284_zpszrrs2ng6.jpg

 

 

Head and manifold has been fitted, with just a small list of things to do before turning key:

- Swap in fuel pump - thankfully the later TM carb models have an electric in tank pump so its a direct swap with just needing to modify the fuel line.

- Fit air box/modified AFM (more on this later), throttle cable, water pump and misc hoses

- Finish interior wiring in and mounting the ECU 

 

 

More later in the week as I'm hoping to have this done before a Club run car show (have to attend one event per year in order to be eligible for the cheap discounted registration)

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Here's a JDM one a mate bought last year, after I saw it for sale on Trademe:

 

post-2915-0-87288800-1423190784.jpg

 

Pillarless doors and entry levels steels combo only further ingratiated it to me .

 

 

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2 litre V6 for bonus #orionfapfactor.

 

 

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Sadly, the interior was disappointingly subdued and as an extra kick in the nuts, it smelt quite a bit of old people, since it had only had one retired NZ owner since importing, hence the fantastic condition. I should've bought it off him when he sold it and definitely would've if it had been a manual. 

 

 

post-17776-0-14483200-1432178155.jpg

 

Despite being bought and sold in Auckland, it was bought by a bloke living in the next town who has a Sigma too, so I think it's being looked after.

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Rare to see the V2000 - I remember seeing that when it was on TradeMe as I recall the yuck wheels (and not in a good way). It's interesting to see how much they changed between the models - I spy a different dash, door trims and even centre console in addition to the obvious differences between the two. I'm trying to find a pair of those chrome backed mirrors - they fold in unlike the spring loaded ones on the Magna/NZ Sigmas.

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Head and manifold back on - starting to look more like an engine now

 

IMG_8289_zpstttdtetp.jpg

 

 

Though as expected not much room between the manifold and the firewall - about 10mm tops. Hopefully the engine doesn't rock too far back

 

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As for the AFM - I got the idea from Tom's Turbo Galant VR-4 sleeper build - https://youtu.be/mvfpZ0dV4YU?list=PLaeETZPdShsM9iRFYTE1XWjEw_f0WAB77&t=810 where he jams a Lancer Evo AFM into the stock air can. Now the E39A Galant VR-4 air can is slightly longer and doesn't place the AFM deep right into the air filter like the Magna air can does, so I had to trim the AFM quite a bit in order for the filter to fit around it. I had no room to use the original socket so couldn't use a nice plug in adapter harness, instead opting to solder direct to the AFM itself. 

 

IMG_8292_zpsumhfwrsw.jpg

 

IMG_8293_zpsk6ugns3s.jpg

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Engine bay is a bit more complete now - but having troubles starting it at the moment. ECU self check on startup comes back fine (check engine light turns off after a few seconds) but then after cranking for a few seconds the check engine light turns on again. Need to pull the fault code(s) and see what's going on. 

 

In the meantime more pics:

 

 
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IMG_8308_zpsviq13bpb.jpg
 
IMG_8307_zpsulz4526z.jpg
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Worked on an auto v2000 when it was a fresh import. A few decades ago. I remember it because we wanted a wiring diagram for it, and contacted mitsi in Japan.they wanted to know how it ended up in nz, as it was a factory prototype, was meant to be crushed in Japan. Turns out the importer brought it from a scrap dealer...

/ling post.

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There is a 4WS Starion in the south island that made its way into NZ as a prototype - it too was meant to be crushed. VIN number isn't recognised by Mitsubishi parts system - the rear seat belts were held in by screws as they were only there for looks etc.

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Also she runs! turns out there was corrosion on the distributor plug and it was throwing error 22 'crankshaft position sensor' fault. Am surprised it is not throwing codes for no O2 sensor or speed sensor yet hooked up. I still need to sort out the interior as it is a bit of a mess. Took it for a spin around the block and it picks up a lot nicer than before and has a throaty roar to the induction. Getting some Lukey headers fitted tomorrow too.

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Right so last pics of the engine now the Lukey headers are fitted. Unfortunately I'm running into troubles with excessive blow by and pinking and of course the dreaded clouds of blue smoke. It ran fine for the first day but on the drive home from getting the headers fitted it was running rough and smoking and I could hear lots of pinking under load. I have a feeling the increased compression ratio combined with the 91 octane fuel that was in the tank detonated so much it may have cracked a piston ring land. I changed the oil to 20W50 to get rid of the old 15W40 that might have had remains of degreaser and WD40 when cleaning up the block but it didn't seem to help too much. I'm going to get ahold of a compression tester and see what compression numbers I am getting from the bottom end. 

 

IMG_8318_zpspuvjkqat.jpg

 

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